Eco Fashion, fashionable - Essay Example

Eco Fashion, fashionable Introduction Eco fashion has become a key element of the global fashion industry. Currently, efforts are made for making eco fashion quite popular worldwide (Gogerly 2013). Still, only few customers check whether the clothes they are going to buy are eco friendly or not (Gogerly 2013). Also, the fashion designers emphasizing on eco fashion are also few (Gogerly 2013). From this point of view it can be noted that the marketing of eco fashion addresses a particular segment of the market. The current status of eco fashion, as a trend in markets worldwide, is explored in this paper. Emphasis is given on the following issue: is the differentiation within eco fashion feasible. The strategies that well known eco brands in the fashion industry use for promoting their activities are reviewed and evaluated. It is proved that, in general, these brands follow similar marketing practices, a fact that increases the need for differentiation within eco fashion. 2. Eco Fashion, is it only marketed to one segment of the market and if so, is there a possibility for differentiation within eco fashion? 2.1 Eco fashion – overview Eco fashion is a trend based on the use of eco friendly materials in clothes and accessories (Gogerly 2013). The promotion of eco fashion has been related to certain problems: a) the awareness of people in regard to the principles and rules of eco fashion is limited (Gogerly 2013); in fact, there are just few people who are able to distinguish the eco friendly clothes, compared to conventional clothes (Gogerly 2013); b) a high percentage of clothes that are presented to the public as eco friendly does not fully meet the relevant requirements (Gogerly 2013) and c) the cost of eco friendly clothes and accessories can vary (Gogerly 2013); there are eco friendly clothes and accessories that are rather cheap and others the cost of which can be quite high, depending on the material used (Gogerly 2013). The promotion of eco fashion worldwide is based on specific practices. In the study of Gogerly (2013) reference is made to one of these practices: the label greenwashing is often put on clothes in order to give the impression that the particular product is eco friendly (Gogerly 2013). Most often, the credibility of such label can be doubted due to the following reasons: a) there are firms that put such labels on their products/ clothes and accessories even if the materials of these products are not eco friendly (Gogerly 2013); b) there are many items/ clothes that are characterized as eco-friendly because certain of their materials are eco-friendly (Gogerly 2013); the non-eco friendly materials that have been also used in these products, such as dyes, can be quite harmful for health (Gogerly 2013). In the above context, it is quite difficult to say that a particular item is fully eco-friendly (Gogerly 2013). Towards the same direction, eco-fashion may be considered as rather a term showing the efforts for promoting sustainability and not the full alignment of manufacturing process with the rules of sustainability (Lewis and Potter 2011). Another aspect of eco fashion is the following one: labels are put on clothes with guidelines in regard to the washing of clothes, their drying, their ironing and so on (Lewis and Potter 2011). Such practice is not closely related to eco fashion, which reflects rather the use of eco friendly materials and eco friendly manufacturing processes in regard to the design and manufacturing of clothes (Lewis and Potter 2011). Still, this practice can be used for showing the interaction between fashion and sustainability, as this relationship can also increase the awareness of people in regard to eco fashion (Lewis and Potter 2011). From a similar point of view, Dahlen, Lange and Smith (2010) notes that fashion needs necessarily to promote innovation; otherwise, a fashion brand cannot survive in the global market. Among the strategies used for securing the uniqueness of fashion brands, the following practice has been identified: certain fashion brands and ‘firms operating in the cosmetics industries have established close collaboration with green charities or organizations’ (Dahlen, Lange and Smith 2010, p.157) in order to inform people on the initiatives taken for the protection of the environment by these industries’ firms (Dahlen, Lange and Smith 2010). Reference can be made, for example, to the case of Lancome; the above firm developed a close cooperation with Carbonfund (Dahlen, Lange and Smith 2010). The particular organization has helped Lancome to develop strategies for reducing the effects of organizational activities on the environment (Dahlen, Lange and Smith 2010). In other words, the use of the principles of sustainability in fashion can be based on different perspectives, not necessarily related to the protection of the environment but also related to the need of the industry’s firms to develop a competitive advantage. Renfrew and Renfrew (2009) explain that the appearance and the expansion of eco fashion can be also explained by referring to the following fact: the continuous increase of costs in retail industry and the simultaneous decrease of demand, due to global market pressures, has led to the expansion of retail brands that can offer to their customers items of low price and of satisfactory design (Renfrew and Renfrew 2009). The case of Zara, a major global retailer, is an indicative example of this trend. However, lowering prices may require the lowering of standards related to the material used (Renfrew and Renfrew 2009). Because of this risk, many consumers have started to seek for clothing items that are aligned with the principles of sustainability, even if the price involved is higher compared to the items produced using conventional materials (Renfrew and Renfrew 2009). Moreover, the following issue should be explained: the variables used for promoting eco fashion, can be developed at different level in each organization. For example, a fashion firm that it is already well established in the global market can promote eco fashion easier, compared to a fashion firm that has just entered the market (Tungate 2012). Also, firms in the fashion industry can employ marketing strategies that are not, commonly, used by firms in other industries (Tungate 84). For example, a fashion designer can promote his collection based on eco fashion by developing a show, during which models will be asked to wear clothes that have been developed using the rules of sustainability (Okonkaw 2007). In the past, the promotion of sustainability in fashion was not given adequate attention mostly because of the following fact: eco-friendly clothes used to lack in terms of style and design (Kurtz 2010). Clothes having the ‘form of feed sacks’ (Kurtz 2010, p.292) and other of similar design have been related, at the first instance, to eco fashion. However, such fashion does not respond to consumers’ needs (Kurtz 2010). The responses of people to relevant surveys have revealed that consumers are willing to support eco fashion but they would not welcome clothes of problematic design/ material (Kurtz 2010). Rather, people tend to believe that eco-friendly clothes have also to be well-designed (Kurtz 2010). 2.2 Differentiation in marketing In the context of marketing, differentiation refers to the unique characteristics of a product, compared to other products of similar use (Ferrel and Hartline 2010). In practice, it has been proved that product differentiation can have different aspects, referring to ‘distinct product features, additional services and so on’ (Ferrel and Hartline 2010, p.209). In general differentiation focuses on the characteristics of the product (Ferrel and Hartline 2010). This means that if there is a need for securing a product’s differentiation, it is necessary to identify certain features which could make the product unique (Ferrel and Hartline 2010). In regard to the specific issue, Kotler has noted that there are four variables that need to be addressed when promoting product differentiation: ‘product, services, personnel, image’ (Cant, Strydom and Jooste 2009, p.141). Each of these variables includes certain sub-variables. For example, in the context of product, as a factor influencing differentiation, emphasis should be given on ‘performance, design, style, reliability and so on’ (Cant, Strydom and Jooste 2009, p.141). 2.3 Differentiation in eco fashion According to the issues discussed in section 2.1 above, eco fashion is only marketed to one segment of the market, meaning the group of consumers who are aware of eco fashion and who seek for clothes and accessories that are eco friendly. Based on the above fact, a strategy would be identified for securing the differentiation within eco fashion. In the fashion industry, the use of practices that promote differentiation in other industries’ products cannot be rejected (Shimp 2010). For example, ‘offering a free sample of a brand’s t-shirt can help the brand to increase its popularity’ (Shimp 2010, p.26). However, when referring to differentiation, as part of marketing, emphasis is given on specific strategies, as analyzed earlier. In the case of eco – fashion, differentiation would be achieved by creating eco-friendly clothes that would be quite stylish and of high durability; the use of Kotler’s views on differentiation, as analyzed in section 2.2 could help to secure differentiation in eco fashion. The comparison of brands that are promoted as eco fashion brands could help to understand the terms under which eco fashion could be enhanced, as a key trend of the global market. 3. Stella McCartney, Martin Margiela – comparison with the more obvious eco friendly fashion brands. How do these brands promote themselves as eco brands? In fashion industry, there are brands that have well established their presence in the global market. Reference is made, specifically, to brands such as ‘Levis, Nike, Guess and so on’ (Khurana 2007, p.36). Not all these brands are promoted as eco brands (Khurana 2007). As in other industries, in the fashion industry also, brands may be used for promoting different ideas. For example, ‘Burberry and Pringle’ (Jones 2005, p.7) emphasize on their tradition as British brands related to ‘quality and conformity’ (Jones 2005, p.8); on the other hand, Versace is a brand ‘related to glamour’ (Jones 2005, p.8). According to Jones (2005) in order for a brand to be characterized as successful it is necessary to have a long presence in its industry; the success of the brand since its establishment is also a key criterion in order to decide the potential prospects of the brand in the long term (Jones 2005). The specific view should be taken into consideration when evaluating the differentiation of eco fashion brands. Eco brands, as part of eco fashion, have different objectives from the other industry’s brands (Shimp 2010). These brands aim to secure the quality of their products, in terms of sustainability. This means that these brands are based on the idea that eco-friendly material can be used in the fashion industry (Shimp 2010). In this context, dyes in eco fashion industry need to be carefully checked, as of their alignment with ethics and the rules of sustainability (Jones 2005, p.16). Firms that are well established in the global market, such as ‘ICI and Zeneca’ (Jones 2005, p.16) can secure the quality of color used the industry’s material. Different approaches can be used by eco brands for achieving differentiation. For example, Ellie Mucke, an Australian fashion designer focusing on eco fashion, seeks for differentiation using the following practice: old clothes are used for making new, stylish, collections (Pride et al. 2012, p.421). Stella McCartney has supported differentiation for her fashion brand by promoting ‘anti-fur and anti-leather policies in regard to her collections’ (Steele 2010, p.257). Ciel, another brand that promotes eco fashion, focuses on the rejection of paraben as an ingredient (Steele 2010, p.257). Through a different approach, Nike has emphasized on the recycling of its products, as possible (Steele 2010, p.257). In fact Nike is well organized in terms of the promotion of sustainability (Steele 2010). Still, the above firm seems to ignore certain aspects of sustainability, as a framework (Steele 2010). On the other hand, Margiela focused on a different aspect of eco fashion: the ageing of textile could be analyzed so that particular effects could be given to the textiles used in collections (English 2011). In the above case, sustainability is promoted not directly but through the use of a process to renovate textile so that it is not fully destroyed. In general, Martin Margiela emphasizes on the promotion of ‘de-constructivism’ (Loschek, 2009). 4. Conclusion The comparison of eco fashion brands, as presented above, leads to the view that these brands are highly successful, but only under a particular term: when evaluating these brands’ potentials for differentiation, different criteria need to be used. As made clear through the analysis provided above, each of the eco fashion brands uses different approach for promoting eco fashion. Other eco fashion brands, such as Stella McCartney follow a policy that it is already known worldwide, while other brands, such as Nike focusing on a particular activity, in order to show their respect for sustainability. It is clear that more initiatives need to be taken by eco fashion brands so that the latter are able to achieve a high level of differentiation. Based on their existing policies, as presented earlier, it could be noted that eco fashion brands in the modern market seek to promote sustainability as a practice of secondary importance, compared to other business strategies, especially those related to organizational profitability, which are treated as of key priority. References Cant, M., Strydom, J. and Jooste, C., 2009. Marketing Management. 5th ed. Cape Town: Juta and Company Ltd. Dahlen, M., Lange, F. and Smith, T., 2010. Marketing Communications: A Brand Narrative Approach. Hoboken: John Wiley & Sons. English, B., 2011. Japanese Fashion Designers: The Work and Influence of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo. Oxford: Berg. Ferrel, O. and Hartline, M., 2010. Marketing Strategy. 5th ed. Belmont: Cengage Learning. Gogerly, L., 2013. Teen Guide to Eco-Fashion. London: Raintree. Jones, S., 2005. Fashion Design. London: Laurence King Publishing. Khurana, P., 2007. Introduction to Fashion Technology. 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