Art and Fashion - Essay Example

? Essay 3 How did Paris regain its position as the world center for haute couture fashion after World War II? Discuss this in relation to the rising profile of art and fashion in America in the 1950s. Introduction The history of Paris as the world capital in the production of fashionable cloths started in the 17th century. This is after taking over the title from Spain which was the dominating power of Europe in the 16th century. Spain was Europe’s political and military controller spreading its court’s culture of dressing to Europeans courts. It spread its culture and political way of doing things all over Europe. During this period, powerful nations determined the fashion to be adopted by the nations they dominate.1 Europe and Paris in particular produced decorative, colorful, pretentious and stylish clothes that marked the Baroque era. From this time Paris has never lost its title of the world’s best producer of fashionable and high quality clothes. In the late 18th century, political, economic and cultural desire of Paris came to a standstill due to the French Revolution. The French culture was replaced by England’s simple and unfashionable styles. English tailors occupied some parts in London where they started making men’s wear and women outfit.2 England became the best producers of high quality men’s outfits. Today, fashion design and art is being practiced all over the world. Some of the leading countries in the fashion industry are United States, Italy, china, Japan, UK among others. The Second World War The impact of Second World War had a big influence in many fashion industries in the world. Paris as the world center for haute couture fashion was not in exception. Many fashion and art industries in Paris were closed while others remained idle. Many quality designers retired from work, others were sent away while others were involved in the war. In spite of the Second World War, some of the fashion design industry continued with their production of French women and some German clients who had occupied the area.3 Those who were in operation mostly worked for their rich collaborators. Some of the industries who continued with production during the war are Jacques Fath, Marcel Rochas, Madeleine Vramant and Maggy Rouff. Fashion industries in Paris faced hardships due to rationing of non-essential clothes and the occupation of Germans in France.4 Textile industries experienced shortages of fabrics as ordinary materials and dyes were on restriction while expensive materials like silk and lace were totally unavailable. Fashion houses which continued with their operations produced attractive designs of full skirts, hats, high-heeled shoes and marabou coats. The production of extravagant fashions by couture traders in Paris attracted critiques from Americans. Due to resentment, Germans carried out stiff campaigns with intentions to influence women to abandon Paris outfits which were termed as “whore-led” fashion. Women were advised to wear ascetic clothes that will maintain their dignity and do away with French design.5 Women were against this campaign and they continued to be fashionable with Paris products. These conflicting ideologies during the war marked the difference between the minority fashion influential of Paris and the aspiring fashionable group. The majority aspiring group could not afford Paris fashionable cloths due to different reasons. America took this advantage and sold their products to them as they did not face many restrictions and rationing like France. From 1939 to 1945, it was a period full of restrictions, manacles and common sens.6 Paris lost huge revenue from overseas customers as German’s could not allow them to continue with their fabric and fashion trade. These customers started using United States products as they were not involved in the war. After Second World War, Japan was able to access information relating to fashion and design from Europe and United States. This information could not be accessible during the war due to German’s restrictions and rationing controls. From 1947 to 1950s, Christian Dior brought some light and sense of hope in fashion industry. The introduction of New Look collection by Dior marked the transition period of Paris from Second World War to liberation and the recovery of couture industry. After liberation, Paris put more efforts to restore their overseas customers who were using United State’s outfits .Their main overseas customers of Paris were North American.7 Paris legacy Paris fashion production became famous again through Christian Dior who came up with the “New Look” collection.8 In his new look collection, Christian Dior offered his Prominent “bar suit” with an integral jacket with a thin waist and a full skirt with long hemlines. Christian used yards of luxe fabrics in coming up with his designs which was a great and brave step at this time. This is because these expensive materials were unavailable, restricted and rationed during the Second World War.9 Dior’s new look collection used much fabric which faced complains from United Kingdom and United States of America government. Princess Margret and Princess Elizabeth of England disregarded USA and United Kingdom government move as they had no base. Women dresses had tiny waist and magnificent busts that made them to retain their feminine and fashionable. Skirts had long hemlines and wide circular hats. This new look design attracted many clients and designers in and outside Europe. Mariano Fortuny, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint, Jean Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin among many others are the individuals who contributed to the success of Paris fashion fame.10 Many art and design companies learnt that people are eager to use new and fashionable products. Dior’s design spread all over the world as many designers and manufacturers preferred it. During 1950s, Christian Dior came up with another feminine style which sustained his name at the top. Dior came to partner with Boussac-the French textile business person and the owner of “The Cotton King”.11 The two used their elegant products and their marketing expertise to promote the fashion industry. Additionally, they encouraged people to make use of fabrics as a way of promoting textile business. It is in 1960 that Paris began to make haute couture. “Haute couture” is a French name meaning “high sewing”. In 1950, Pierre Cardin a Persian designer introduced his brand in Tokyo during his visit.12 Paris continuously makes new advancement in textile and fashion industry to maintain its position. Today Paris is the bench mark of fashion that motivates many fashioners name who admire to be related with them. Many textile industries want to be related with Paris in its hard works in the production of haute couture. Up to date, Paris remains the world center for haute couture fashion due to the production of unique and individual outfits. More advanced methods and techniques are being used in textile industries. Paris has managed to protect its position due to strict rules and protection from French law.13 Not all industries in Paris can make use of or advertise their products as “Haute Couture”. This protects haute couture products from being tarnished by low quality and old fashioned collections. Authority has to be issued from the Chambre Syndicale which is a regulatory body in Paris. This move assists Paris in remaining at the top in the production of high quality and fashionable collection in the world. Tokyo and Milan are joining the group of Paris, London and New York in the production of quality products.14 United States profile United States started to be famous in the production of remarkable designs in 1920s and 1930s. This is the time United State had its own designer in the textile industry. New York is the fashion capital of Unites States. Materials that were used in fashion industry are jersey, gingham, calico, cotton denim and striped mattress. Claire McCardell is one of those who contributed to United States success in fashion industry.15 During the Second World War when Paris and London were under restriction, United States was busy setting up fashion industries and houses in New York. In addition, it is in 1943 that New York designers held their first fashion week. The main objective New York designers had during the fashion week is to divert people’s attention from French fashion. Fashion weeks are held two times in a year according to the two main seasons, Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer. Paris, Milan, New York and London are the four known fashion capitals in the world. Fashion designers use fashion week to display and advertise their new designs. Journalists, media and people get to know the latest move during this event.16 This was the only chance Americans had to proof journalists and other nations that they do not depend on French designers. For many centuries, American’s designers were considered to rely on French information on design.17 To get attention from journalists, American designers held a press week to display and promote their fashions and designs. This event was lead by Eleanor Lambert a renowned fashion publicist. This move was very successful as magazines like Vogue started to display Americans original styles. Vogue magazine is known in displaying styles and fashions from French.18 It is during this period USA gained many customers due to lack of competition. Since Paris had already gained loyalty customers of haute couture, it was hard for these clients to buy New York’s fashion. Americans products were the only fashion available during the press week in 1943. Therefore, clients had no other option other than to make use of American products. This is how New York fashion industries gained attention. It is during fashion week that nations advertise for their products to people and other interested parties.19 It is after the fashion week that the profile of America took a new appearance in art and fashion. This is because media, people and journalists could not access different collections from other designers.20 In addition, America had access of fabrics from overseas countries which were not available to Paris designers due to rationing. Americans were able to proof that they are capable of producing high quality collections without any support from Paris. Their products gained credibility especially the men’s suit which was adopted by many nations. In 1958, America formed an organization called the Council of Fashion Designers of America based in New York.21 The Council of Fashion Designers of America organization promoted local designs as well as protecting textile industry. America did not lose its overseas customers who were using their products during the Second World War. From this time to current, America is prominent in fashion and design. There are many industries producing fashionable products today. Conclusion The field of fashion design and textile industries started many centuries ago. Paris as the world producer of high quality products started in the 16th century. During this time, Europe was under the rule of Spain. The production of quality, colorful and pretty outfits marked the Baroque era in Paris. Textile industries all over the world were severely affected by the first and the Second World War. It is during this period the textile industry in Paris experienced a big blow. Many textile industries were closed as people were involved in the war. Some designers moved to other states like New York where they continued with their work. The Germans laid strict rules and rationing of fabrics which were hard to obtain. It is after the Second World War that Paris restored to its position with the introduction of new look collections by Christian Dior. Prominent designers like Dior carried out advertising campaigns to promote textile and fashion industries. United States took advantage of Paris’s condition during the war by improving its textile industries. American’s profile started to shine after the Second World War when it held its first fashion week which attracted attention from people and journalists. Additionally, its art and design were displayed in many magazines. Today the textile industry is performing well due to improved technology and advanced tool for fabric production. Bibliography Alexandra, Palmer. Couture & Commerce: The Transatlantic Fashion Trade in the 1950s. Toronto. UBC Press, 2001. Bonnie, English & Liliana, Pomazan. Australian Fashion Unstitched: The Last 60 Years. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010. Christopher, Breward, David, Gilbert. Fashion's World Cities. Iowa: Berg, 2006. Elizabeth, Bye. Fashion Design, Understanding Fashion. Iowa: Berg, 2010. Jennifer, Craik. Fashion: The Key Concepts. Iowa: Berg, 2009. John, Hopkins. Fashion Design: The Complete Guide. London: A&C Black, 2012. Juliet, Ash & Elizabeth, Wilson. Chic Thrills: A Fashion Reader. Ewing, NJ: University of California Press, 1992. Longe Magazine. Longe Magazine: Issue #3, Issue 3. New York: Longe Magazine & Distributi, 2011. Marlis, Schweitzer. When Broadway Was the Runway: Theater, Fashion, and American Culture. Philadelphia, PA: University of Pennsylvania, 2011. William, Young. The 1950s. Medieval: Greenwood Publishing Group, 2004. Read More