History of Neckties - Research Paper Example

The History of Ties Introduction The use of the neck tie dates back to very ancient times, which was handed down to us from generation to generation and finally occupies a very prestigious position for itself as a very essential part of modern attire. This piece of modern attire has evolved over the years in the light of social, cultural and historical backdrops and has carved a prestigious niche for itself in the art of modern dressing. The neck tie can be defined as a narrow band of fabric of different length, that is worn around the neck and tied with a knot. In this research paper we are going to investigate and analyze how the tie has evolved and become an integral part of fashion and business attire. Thesis: In this modern contemporary world, ties have become more of a fashion statement than just a piece of clothing as it serves to command respect and dignity from all those who are associated with it. What’s so sensational about the modern tie and how did it come to occupy this position?. In our study of the evolution of ties, we would try to answer the above questions and get a better picture of how ties evolved over the ages and how it has come to stay in modern society as an indispensable part of male attire. Ancient neckwear dates back to about 30,000 years ago, when people wore adornments around their necks such as necklaces made of glass beads, wood, feathers or metal. In the Middle Ages, people were quite superstitious and believed that using such ornaments around their necks helped to ward off evil. During the seventeenth century, the Croatian mercenaries who had fought and won the war over Turkey, visited King Louis XIV in Paris in order to celebrate their victory. Besides their smart uniforms, the soldiers wore bright scarves around their necks called cravats. King Louis was greatly impressed by their brightly colored silk scarves, that he soon adopted it for his soldiers who called themselves ‘The Royal Cravattes’ derived from the Croatian word ‘Kravate’. Its popularity spread and it soon became a fashion accessory. This style soon spread to England where Charles II showed a deep interest in Cravats which is popular even to this day. Another alternative to the Cravat is the Stock tie which was made up of a thin band of material that was fastened at the back of the neck with a knot. In her book titled "The Face of Fashion" Jennifer Craik (1993) sheds light on the theory that it was the elite designers in addition to the opinion leaders who dictated the concepts of fashion that were either borrowed or shared between different subcultures and influenced by mass consumer behavior. Her book is a study of fashion and the role it plays in gender identity. Craik makes special mention of the neglected areas of men’s and women’s fashion in her book with special mention of how ties found their way into modern society. According to the Neck Wear Association of America’s handbook of 1992 and the MR Magazine, every year ties sales in America amount to about 95 million ties raking in about $ 1.4 billion. Stanley Lieberson, (2000) in his enlightening book titled ‘A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change’ sheds light on the use of names especially in the manufacturing business. According to Stanley Lieberson, (2000) manufacturers do not have a vested interest in the choice of names because their interest lies in the product that is to be supplied than the name attached to it. In his opinion, tastes are not influenced by powerful commercial sources. (Lieberson, 2000) His book ‘A Matter of Taste’ was the co – winner as the Best Book in the Sociology of Culture, Culture section (2001) and also of the Mirra Komarovsky Book Award, Eastern Sociological Society (2002). In this book he sheds light on how first names are used to uncover orderly mechanisms that contribute towards changes in tastes and fashions over time. ‘The Rise of Fashion’, by Daniel Leonhard Purdy, (2004) tries to draw parallels between the history of fashion in connection to modern life. He looks upon the transitive nature of fashion and the inspiration it wields on today’s modern life. According to Purdy ‘fashion is the ultimate expression of modernity.’ (Daniel Leonhard Purdy, 2004) In his book he sheds light on the changes in fashions from the period of Enlightenment to the 20th century explaining how fashion inspires our masculinity and femininity and impacts upon our social life. Further evolvement of the necktie took place when a silversmith named Victor Cedarstaff patented the ‘Bolo Tie’ in the 1940’s. According to Patrick McMurray, the Bolo tie was the replacement for bow-ties and neckties. The Roadside America website defines the Bolo tie as a 4ft. long strip of leather or cord that is wrapped around the neck and placed under the collar. The ends are put together and clasped tightly with a buckle or medallion. (Patrick McMurray, 2011) According to Patrick McMurray, the Bolo tie was accidentally created by Victor Cedarstaff a silversmith, while on a horse riding trip with his friends in Arizona. It is said that he tied the hat’s headband around his neck so he wouldn’t lose his hat that had an expensive turquoise buckle. (Patrick McMurray, 2011) His friend’s complimented him on his style and soon Victor made many such Bolo ties using innovative ideas such as beads and buckles. Some of the important personalities that used the Bolo tie were President Jimmy Carter, Bruce Springsteen and many governors of the United States. The Arizona Bolo Tie Society was established at Wickenburg, quite near to the place where Victor Cedarstaff had created his first Bolo tie. (Roadside America, 2010) The museum houses a rotation of about 250 historic Bolo ties in addition to the existing 32 Bolo ties. (Roadside America, 2010) Cedarstaff had named it ‘Bolo’ due to its resemblance of lengths of rope made use of by the gauchos of Argentina to trap game or cattle. Almost 20 years before the introduction of the Bolo tie, an innovation by Jean Patou, a pioneer fashion designer used his innovative skills by designing ties made from women’s clothing material. (Patrick McMurray, 2011) All his tie patterns stemmed from the art movements such as Cubism and Art deco that were prevalent during that time. During the 1960’s, designer ties made an entry with designers from London 's Carnaby Street whose colorful creations involved flowered, abstract and psychedelic patterns on ties. (Patrick McMurray, 2011) These innovative ties were forerunners to the Hippie Movement which was a major shift in youth culture, that took root in the 60’s and soon they dispensed with ties altogether and replaced them with colorful scarves around their necks or just wore medallions or chains on an open shirt. (Patrick McMurray, 2011) The Modern Neck tie Designer ties are now the norm of the day in our contemporary society with designers making a splash with their innovative and creative thoughts and ideas on tie manufacturing. Today, ties have become an indelible part of clothing where both males and females are concerned. Modern society looks upon ties as been a fashion statement that represents who they are because in gives them the identity they desire to stand out among the crowd. Tie industries around the globe are a huge success because of the heavy demand for this accessory of clothing. The raw materials used in the manufacture of neckties are silk, polyester, wool, linen, nylon and rayon with most of the raw silk coming from China. Tie fabric weaving is looked upon more as an art form than just an industry. As American designer at Gucci, Tom Ford states – ‘Fashion today is no longer rigidly segmented by country’ (White N. & Griffiths I. 2000) and this attribute is clearly manifested due to advancement of Science and technology today and the merging of borders. Designers like Dior have capitalized on the situation and have a franchised partnership with the US twill manufacturer Benjamin Theise for silk ties. (White N. & Griffiths I. 2000, pg. 129) Conclusion The world has become a global village because it is no more defined by boundaries. It is a multicultural organization that has opened its doors to modern innovation. Therefore, the humble tie of yester years has now been recognized as an indispensable part of a person’s wardrobe because it gives them not only individuality but an identity of their own. Besides it being recognized by gurus as a true fashion statement, it is recognized as a tool of respect, dignity and grace which distinguishes them from their regular counterparts. References Craik J. (1993) ‘The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion’ Routledge, London.  Dickinson R. J. (2004) ‘Ties have a history of hanging around’ The Cincinnati Post, Vol. 56. Issue 3, Cincinnati, US.  Mergen B. (2003) ‘Stanley Lieberson, A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change’ American Studies International. Volume: 41. Issue: 3.  Patrick McMurrey (2011) ‘The History of Tie’ News, Patrick McMurrey. Available at: http://www.patrickmcmurray.com/news-003.html. Retrieved on: 02 Feb 2011. Purdy D.L. (2004) ‘The Rise of Fashion: A Reader’ University of Minnesota Press, Minneapolis.  Web site ‘Necktie Variations’ Seven Fold Ties. Retrieved from: http://sevenfoldties.reflexblue.org/extrainfo.php. Retrieved on 02 Feb 2011 White N. & Griffiths I. (2000) ‘The Fashion Business: Theory, Practice, Image, Berg, Oxford.  Roadside America: Wickenburg, Arizona (2010) Bolo Tie Museum. Internet sources Necktie Definition www.answers.com Read More