Antiperspirants and Deodorant Market and Evolution - Research Paper Example

?Your Antiperspirants and deodorant market and evolution Introduction All human perspire,irrespective of their age, race, and color. It is normal and experienced by billions of people on earth. However, medical condition, physical work, hot weather, certain diet and unhygienic life style can lead to excessive and annoying perspiration which should be controlled by medicinal means and lifestyle change. For the rest of us, human mind have developed the very useful deodorant and antiperspirant products. Despite the benefits packed in different forms of deodorants and antiperspirants, numerous health concerns are associated with their particular ingredients. This paper studies the process of sweat formation, its inhibition or control by deodorants and antiperspirants, and creation and evolution of these products in market over a period of time. Understanding perspiration It is natural for a healthy human being to sweat. Amount of perspiration depends on weather conditions, personal health, hygiene and physical activity level. Sweat is wet and odorless in its pure form. It only stinks after reacting with the bacteria on human skin .Sweat regulates body temperature irrespective of the outside weather conditions. Therefore, be it topical or below zero outside, human body temperature remains constant. While exposed to extreme heat, sweat glands excrete a watery substance that cools down the body. It is a thermoregulatory mechanism which makes the body capable of adapting to hottest climates (“Sweat”). Every human perspire about two quarts of liquid each day. We cannot control perspiration mechanism by will. Emotional and environmental aspects influence the level of perspiration on soles, palms, forehead and armpits. Smoking may be another reason for excessive perspiration (“Sweat”). Perspiration mechanism There are 2.4 million sweat glands in human body. They are of two types: eccrine glands and apocrine glands. Eccrine glands are located on upper surface of nearly entire body. These comparatively smaller glands are located deep within the skin and linked with upper skin through narrow ducts. They control body temperature which is cooled as we sweat and moisture evaporates. Moreover, they are responsible for excretion of by-products generated during physical work and help in preventing skin dryness. Eccrine glands on the palms of the hands, the soles of the feet and in the armpits are also activated during emotional stress, such as nervousness and fear (Blumenthal). The apocrine glands are comparatively large but only in size as in number they are few. These glands end in the follicles of body hair and become active after puberty. Apocrine glands respond to hormonal secretions and get triggered by emotional factors, for instance, stress and sexual excitement. Sweat produced from both types of glands is odorless. The main culprits for odor are bacteria which ferment on sweat. By products of this activity generate odor, therefore, daily shower is suggested to be a natural way to avoid odor. However, despite the fact that both eccrine sweat and apocrine sweat are nearly 99 per cent water, apocrine sweat contains some oil which is more favorable for bacterial growth. Therefore, apocrine sweat is prime reason for sweat odor while eccrine sweat makes us wet (Blumenthal). External Factors Other than sweat glands, some external factors also contribute to sweating, such as hot weather, some particular food, smoking or drug use. According to studies by the Gillette Co, foods including garlic, onions, hot spices and beer have been detected to contribute in more body odor. Contrary to yesteryears’ belief about fighting sweat, regular bathing and killing or inhibiting bacterial growth by deodorants and antiperspirants is frequently suggested today. The approach is far improved and effective as compared to masking the odor by perfumes in past (Blumenthal). Deodorants and antiperspirants Antiperspirants are available in sprays, creams, pads, powders, lotions, roll-ons and liquids as well. Based on aluminum salts, antiperspirants work by shrinking or blocking the pores or cause the sweat to reabsorb below the skin surface. Antiperspirants don’t restrict the flow of perspiration completely and it is not desirable because of its body temperature regulation mechanism. Antiperspirants are applied to clean skin daily for good results. Choice of type is purely preference based depending on ease of application, avoidance of burning or irritation, lack of messiness and advertisement appeal. For excessive perspiration, also known as diaphoresis or hyperhidrosis, Drysol is the prescription solution. Another over-the-counter preparation available as Certain Dri works effectively for excessive perspiration (“Sweat”). Deodorants are packaged as sprays, creams, sticks, powders, pads, soaps, roll-ons. Without affecting the flow of sweat, they work from few hours to more than a day. Unlike yesteryears’ colognes, perfumes, and toilet waters that merely covered the perspiration odor, deodorants have antibacterial agents, such as, triclosan and neomycin (“Sweat”). Differentiating deodorants and antiperspirants Despite the common belief and interchangeable use of the terms deodorants and antiperspirants, the two are entirely different in their ingredients and function. A deodorant reduces perspiration odor by masking it. On the other hand, antiperspirant decreases perspiration and odor by either inhibiting bacterial growth or blocking the pores. However, sometimes their functioning can overlap. For instance, product called an antiperspirant/deodorant is composed of ingredients from both deodorants and antiperspirants. Antiperspirant alone also acts as a deodorant due to its ability to inhibit bacterial growth. Deodorants are listed as cosmetics because they don’t affect body function while antiperspirants are over-the-counter-drugs because of their ability to change bodily function of perspiration (Blumenthal). Basic functioning Deodorants are used to cover and reduce the odors formed by perspiration protein breakdown by bacteria in hot and humid environments, for instance, armpits. It contains pleasant and appealing fragrances. Major product of bacterial breakdown which is associated with unpleasant bodily odor is E 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid. Secondary and less intense contributors to odor are geometric isomer, Z and 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid (Gros & Keith, 2). Antiperspirants work on the amount of perspiration released by sweat glands. Less perspiration means lesser bacterial breakdown and consequently lesser odor. Some deodorants contain antiperspirants; however, reverse is not factual (Gros & Keith, 2).In most of antiperspirants, aluminum chlorohydrate is active component. The chemical formula for this ingredient is Al2(OH)5Cl.Most part of perspiration is composed of water, hydrolysis reaction takes place when water comes in contact with aluminum. As a byproduct, H3O+ ions cause acidic environment with a PH below 7 which is not favorable for bacterial growth (Gros & Keith, 3). Sweat proteins are usually water soluble. H3O+ (aq) ions change the protein structure and they are considered as ‘denatured’. In this process protein structure changes and loses solubility. Consequently, proteins are precipitates as gel and clog sweat glands which stop further perspiration (Gros & Keith, 3). Hazardous ingredients In addition to other ingredients, the most important elements of concern in deodorants and antiperspirants are aluminum chlorohydrate, propylene glycol, parabens, triclosan, Talc, Tea, DEA, FD&C colors (Field).In today’s products triclosan is most widely used anti-bacterial agent. It is considered to be comparatively safer when it comes to avoiding allergic reactions. However, there are certain reservations about its long term effect on human body (Blumenthal). Advantages and disadvantages Mostly both the products are considered to be safe cosmetics and millions applied it on their axilla everyday. Deodorants are considered to be cosmetic as they don’t influence bodily function while antiperspirants are considered to be drug due to their ability to reduce perspiration. Therefore, antiperspirants are subjected to FDA (Food and Drug Administration) rules and regulations (Zirwas & Jessica). Benefits of deodorants and antiperspirant are obvious; personal hygiene maintenance and off course keep us from stinking in hot and humid weather conditions. Blumenthal states: The Westat Report on Consumers’ Perceptions of Adverse Reactions to Cosmetic Products, done for the Food and Drug Administration in the mid-1970s, found that deodorants and antiperspirants caused more perceived adverse reactions than almost all other cosmetics. And in 1982, the Consumer Product Safety Commission’s National Electronic Injury Surveillance System estimated that 2,328 people were treated in hospitals for injury associated with the use of deodorants and antiperspirants, not including aerosols. Frequent antiperspirant and deodorant use is often associated with breast cancer, Alzheimer and allergic reactions. Numerous studies are conducted to find the link between the two. Analysis of all the data collected showed conflicting areas. However, some conclude a direct correlation between breast cancer and antiperspirant and deodorant use while others negate it. Irrespective to the results and findings, inconclusive findings arouse much concern (Field). Zirwas and Jessica also explain breast cancer’s association with deodorants and antiperspirants by highlighting the estrogenic properties of parabens as main culprit. FDA and National Cancer Institute may have rejected such association but aluminum presence is another concern which is linked with Alzheimer Disease (AD) (Zirwas & Jessica). Studies associate the higher risk of breast cancer with frequent use of these products (Graves, White ,Koepsell,et al. 35).In another study, general avoidance to aluminum exposure is suggested to reduce the development of Alzheimer Disease (AD)(Ferreira, Piai, Takayanagui, and Segura 151). Cutaneous granulomas is also considered to be a rare side effect associated with deodorants and antiperspirants (Montemarano, Sau, Johnson, and James 497).However, the most frequently reported and experienced reactions are nonspecific irritation and development of allergic axillary dermatitis (ACD).Research of Walgreens database indicated that fragrance, essential oils, PG, parabens, vitamin ,biological additives, and lanolin are fundamental ingredients that trigger allergic reactions(Zirwas & Jessica). According to some experts, antiperspirant ingredients cause a slight swelling around the sweat-gland ducts which reduces the perspiration from seeping away .This property is created by using of aluminum salts or salts combining zirconium and aluminum. Particularly, aerosol antiperspirants are always based on aluminum salts. Zirconium was banned by the FDA from use in all aerosol cosmetics in 1977 due to the risk of lung damage when it is inhaled. In addition, skin irritation or itching is also observed due to the presence of aluminum (Blumenthal). Development and evolution Marketing for the combating and controlling perspiration and resulting odor started over a hundred year ago.1888’s Mum deodorant was the first product in this category. Initially such products were used by people in entertainment industry but now, antiperspirants and deodorants are considered to be the most widely used products in Health and Beauty Aids (HBA) in United States. Second is toothpaste in HBA category, however, both products holds similar $1.5 billion consumer sales. Antiperspirant and deodorant market has not grown at a steady rate. In hundred years, the sales reached to $20 million per year during first half while in the second half it reached $1.5 billion per year (Laden 1). Antiperspirants and deodorants range in different forms, packaging, forms and formulation may exceed any other HBA category. They are available in squeeze sprays, aerosols, pump sprays, pads, suspension roll-ons, creams, roll-ons, deodorant sticks, antiperspirant solids, clear solids, soft solids, and gels (Laden 1).Mum deodorant was the first ever commercial product for underarms that contained comparatively weak antimicrobial properties of zinc oxide. Mum brand is alive even after one hundred and ten years later and present as trademark of Bristol-Myers. Everdry was the first commercial antiperspirant appeared in 1903.Everdry was an aqueous alcoholic solution of aluminum chloride. The solution was used by cotton ball by wetting and then dabbing it in underarm area (Laden 2). Laden further states: It is interesting to note that current deodorant products are considerably more efficacious than the original aqueous aluminum chloride. While no efficacy measurements were done on those early products, current testing would suggest efficacy in the 60% to 70% range, while modern antiperspirant products inhibit sweating between 30% and 55 %.( 2) It is considerable that 50% sweat control may seem to be insufficient, but its users don’t measure it in terms of percentage. In addition, the sweat level depends on the type or fit of clothing and the rate at which it evaporated from the clothing. Due to these variables, customers hardly judge the efficacy as precisely. Depending on variable factors, sometimes 20% sweat reduction is sufficient to control clothing wetness and sometimes even 70% reduction is not considered sufficient (Laden 2). Market growth In United States, growth of the antiperspirant and deodorant industry has outpaced numerous Western countries. It not only differs in number of people using deodorants and antiperspirants but a considerable divide in evident in men-women consumers and application preference. For instance, aerosol antiperspirants and deodorants consumers hold about 20% market in United States while it is more than 80% UK. While having more or less no market in U.S and France, AP&D product sales are 25% pump sprays in Germany. AP&D sale in the form of roll-ons are 20% in Germany, less than 1% in France, and more than 70% in Sweden. In comparatively more developed AP&D market, such as United States, the stick form (deodorant sticks, antiperspirant solids) dominates the market. Soft solids and gels are not considered as stick but are dispensed in a form that appears to be stick. In any European country, stick format does not account more than 22% market while it holds 70% of U.S market. Irrespective of equal population of United Kingdome and France (58 million), the AP&D market sale is 30% higher in U.K. Major difference in popularity of different forms is due to application aesthetics offered by the particular format (Laden 2-3). Early products Early antiperspirant products were solution of alcoholic aluminum chloride. Its application was a messy procedure because one had to use wet cotton ball which made the hand cold and wet during application. Drying procedure of application was also long and sticky. Furthermore, they irritated the skin and damaged the clothing. However, despite all the negative associations, the product convinced customers for its efficacy in sweat and odor reduction (Laden 4). Within few years of its introduction, the product Odo-Ro-No became nationally recognized brand in 1914(Qtd. in Laden 4).Journal of American Medical Association acknowledged the efficacy of antiperspirant (Qtd. in Laden 4) in sweat reduction in first scientific report of these products in 1916, however, they also expressed concerns for irritation, redness, burning, and stinging sensations after use (Laden 4). Major improvement in product form was appeared with the introduction of Arrid Cream in 1930s (Qtd. in Laden 4).It was a cream product with active ingredient aluminum sulfate. It was comparatively less effective and probably less damaging to skin and clothing. It became popular because of the ease of application, faster drying, less stickiness and cosmetic like appearance. Cream antiperspirants became preference over not only solution antiperspirants but cream deodorants as well. Cream antiperspirants alone ruled the antiperspirant market for over 20 years; in 1940s it held 88% of the total market in this category (Laden 4).Laden states, “The advertising slogan “Don’t be half safe, use Arrid to be sure” became very well known. The “Use Arrid to be sure” slogan from the 1940s’ should not be confused with the 1980s’ “Raise your hand if you’re sure” slogan promoting the Sure like of antiperspirants” (4).Arrid Cream occupied 34% of antiperspirant market worth $30 million by 1945(Qtd. in Laden 4).However, with the development of new and improved product forms, cream antiperspirants hold only 1% today’s U.S market. However, Arrid Cream is leading cream antiperspirant product in U.S market even today (Laden 4). In late 1950s, aerosol technology was introduced and manufacturers used it for dispensing perfumes and shaving creams. In early 1960s, Gillette introduced the first ever aerosol antiperspirant named Right Guard. It became instantly popular due to its ease of application that did not involve fingers. By 1967, half of antiperspirants were sold in aerosol form and it reached 82% in early 1970s.Later two technical concerns limited its usage, first when FDA banned the active ingredient aluminum zirconium complexes in aerosol. Secondly, Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) strictly prohibited the use of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC) used in aerosol products due to the concerns about depletion of ozone layer. CFCs were used in antiperspirants to give a dry and soft spray. Despite improvements, consumer lost interest in aerosol product and it dropped to 50% market share and in 1982, it went below 32%.Today’s market holds a minimal share of aerosol products. Immediately after the fall of aerosol, dry stick deodorants gained popularity and its market share rose to 35% in mid 1980s from initial share of 4% in 1974.It is the highly popular antiperspirant form in today’s market (Schueller). The products were continuously improved by different additives to reduce acidity for irritancy and clothing damage caused by aluminum salts. Initially alum and borax were used for this purpose. Comparatively less acidic salts, such as aluminum formate and phosphates were also reported to be used. Urea had also been used to buffer acidity. In addition to these additives amino compounds were also used, however, nothing proved to be the ultimate solution for irritation and clothing damage (Qtd. in Laden 4). Early efforts to prepare partially neutralized and less acidic aluminum salts were not encouraging because it directed the development of insoluble precipitated gels and collides of aluminum hydroxide. After 1940s, partially neutralized aluminum chlorides were proposed to be used in antiperspirants. In 1947, 5/6 basic aluminum chlorohydroxide was used as antiperspirant ingredient. However, patent with this formulation was rejected in subsequent years (Qtd. in Laden 5). Aluminum chlorohydroxide proved to be a single breakthrough ingredient for growth in antiperspirants category. The ingredient offered a major improvement for producers and consumers alike. It easily replaced the products with higher PH levels which were buffered with other ingredients, such as urea or amines. Now producers can work with antiperspirant salt solution having 4 to 5 PH level.5/6 basic salt was less irritating to skin which made antiperspirant use more frequent. It also dramatically reduced cloth damaging attribute of antiperspirants. No doubt, it reduced the performance level of antiperspirant. However, its positive improvements surpassed the lesser efficacy. Throughout the history of this product category, less effective products were preferred over more effective ones considering other positive attributes of the less effective product (Laden 5). Despite providing better solution for skin and clothing issues, aluminum chlorohydroxide was not ultimate solution (Qtd. in Laden 5).Though specific data identifying this problem is not available, but considerable number of consumers(up to 10%) reported occasional stinging, redness, itching, and soreness. Severity of such reactions is low and not experienced with every application, in addition, clothing damage and color change is also observed. In such cases, consumers are reported to switch brand or chose non-aluminum deodorant products. In today’s market, skin mildness is often highlighted as the major attribute of the product, such as Vaseline Intensive Care, Dove, and Nivea’s AP&D product lines. Vaseline Intensive Care promote under “Tough on perspiration, easy on your skin” slogan while Dove claims “1/4 moisturizing cream” in their antiperspirant formulas (Laden 5-6). Evolving packaging formats First 50 years in AP&D industry concluded with the new product development and introduction of aluminum chlorohydroxide in late 1940s.Recent 50 years can be divided in two development periods. From mid-1940s to 1960s, virtually all antiperspirant and deodorant products were introduced which are available in market today. Products like deodorant pads, roll-ons, pump sprays, squeeze bottles, aerosols, and sticks were developed in this period. Since then, these products basically developed in their formulations rather than packaging, however, improvements in design and functionality did add to the packaging of the mentioned products forms. Now, there are well-designed and better functioning sticks and solid containers, in addition to new designs for soft, solid and gel dispensers. Overall, we can conclude that since early 1960s, antiperspirant and deodorant product development was basically aimed for creative formulation and improved ingredients rather than new packaging and formats (Laden 6). Introduction of plastic During WWII, proved to be the next technological breakthrough in this industry which led to plastic bottles and antiperspirant applicator based on old Venturi glass bottle-rubber bulb perfume atomizer. It was a squeeze bottle spray atomizer for dispensing deodorant and antiperspirant and most popular product in this format was Stoppette(Qtd. in Laden 6).The idea was founded on Venturi principle, therefore, this packaging often contained low-viscosity and aqueous alcoholic formulations. Sprays based on these early products were also wet, cold, coarse, and sticky and felt on body in case of over application. Despite their resemblance with the older formulations applied with cotton balls, U.S customers accepted these types of products over a reserved time period. Most dominating feature of this product which differentiated it from all other contemporary AP&Ds was its application without using fingers which demonstrated consumer disliking for stickiness involved (Laden 6). Over the years, natural deodorants also gained popularity. These are considered to be healthy, natural, and environmentally safe alternatives to chemical formulas. Natural deodorants are made by mineral salts from Asian origin in combination with latest application forms. The salts prevent odor formation by inhibiting bacterial growth rather than blocking pores and interfering with natural body function (“A Brief history of Deodorants”). Conclusion Sweating or perspiration is natural and healthy bodily function. Two types of glands, eccrine glands and apocrine glands are responsible for sweating. In addition to sweat glands, some external factors also contribute to sweating and sometimes excessive sweating which should be treated rather than concealed. Deodorants and antiperspirants were created to cater the increasing demand for personal hygiene. The product took several forms and formulations over a period of time. It became easier in application and sophisticated in formulations with technological advancements. We moved from liquid to spray, aerosol, and stick forms of both deodorants and antiperspirants. Despite all the years of development and clarifications by research studies, health concerns, such as breast cancer, Alzheimer, lungs, and skin problems are consistently associated with these products. Natural forms of deodorants and antiperspirants are also available in today’s market. It combines wisdom of past and technology of today in small packages to serve us and make our space fragrant and healthy. 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Laden, Karl. “Antiperspirants and Deodorants: History of Major HBA Market.” Antiperspirants and Deodorants. Eds. Karl Laden.3rd ed. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, Inc, 1999.1-6.Print. Montemarano AD, Sau P, Johnson FB, James WD. “Cutaneous granulomas caused by an aluminum-zirconium complex: an ingredient of antiperspirants.”J AM Acad Dermatol 37.3(1997):496-498. Schueller, Randy. “Antiperspirant/Deodorant Stick.” Howproducts are made: Volume 5.madehow.com.Advameg, Inc.n.d.Web.19 Jan.2011. “Sweat.” globusz.com. Globusz Publishing, n.d.Web.20 January.2011. Zirwas, Methew and Jessica Moennich. “Antiperspirant and Deodorants Allergy Diagnosis and Management.” The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (September 2008):n.pag.Web.20 Jan.2011. Read More