London's Fashion Today, From Primark to the club kids - Essay Example

Speaking about fashion in London we should take into consideration that London is a multicultural and this peculiarity causes many different special trends in fashion. Modern society is increasingly away from the stereotypes and uniformity in dressing and style. Fashion often focuses on individual groups. There is a co-existence of a mini or maxi as semi-sport style and business style. Today, it would be right to say not "fashion", and "fashions" in the plural, because the manufacturers have to determine for whom they are developing their collections. On the one hand it is promoting healthy living, the other addicted to harmful habits. An important development today, small producers have been targeted at specific groups, and therefore base their production depending on needs of the groups. Fashion is the result of multifaceted interaction affect the mood of the masses of people. And the creation of models is often only show, because it is not demanded by society. And if to consider the notion of fashion, it is nothing like that by a majority. Thus the greatest success in the fashion of traditional "is the one who offers a range, not beyond the commonly accepted (Breward, 2004). Fashion innovators, or those who are promoting the new items in the estate are people who on their example show how to look like any new in the real world and the real person. Fashion is a major factor in the evolution of not only the costume, but a modern society in general. To study the phenomenon of fashion as a special human culture began at the end of the XVIII century, interpreting it as an aesthetic phenomenon, due primarily to the changing aesthetic ideals and taste in art and costume. But to understand the true essence of the phenomenon of «fashion», to reveal the underlying mechanisms of emergence and operation of society provided an opportunity for a sociological approach to the study of fashion (Breward, 2004). Researchers of fashion at the end of XIX-XX centuries considered fashion primarily as a social phenomenon by analyzing the social causes of its origin and development as well as social, economic and cultural consequences of its actions. Fashion was studied from many perspectives: social psychology and psychoanalysis, the market economy of capitalism and culture, science - and in each case it was an essential component of the interim of human society, shaping its development. Designer that creates cultural models, which can be fashion, it is necessary to have a holistic presentation on the nature of the phenomenon of fashion, because fashion is one of the regulators of social and economic relations in modern society. Many researchers of fashion gave the interpretation of this notion as the premise that fashion is linked with the rules of mass behavior. It is possible to offer several similar definitions of «fashion»: Fashion - it is a particular way, a measure of social information processing information. Fashion – is the type of response to the innovations characteristic of a large number of people. It is often manifested in the periodic change of the selection of a new course of action or thought. Fashion, along with the customs and social institutions (law) is a form of social regulation of behavior. Fashion - specific regulation warrant periodic rotation and the cyclical nature of development of mass behavior (Finney, 2006). Fashion extends to all phenomena of culture - in all that relates to the material and spiritual values and in the process of change: art, literature, science (particularly medicine, sociology, economics, philosophy), technology, politics, ideology, sports. Design is an area of culture, in which the active mechanisms of fashion. May be the fashion for actions, ideas and things. The structure of fashion consists of the following elements: 1) modern standards. Stylish standard - a way or pattern of behavior or actions; 2) fashion objects. Modern facilities could be material and non-material - things, ideas, words and their properties; 3) fashion values or values of fashion. When the fashion standard or value of the object becomes fashionable, it became fashionable, when it loses value - «goes out of fashion». Each demonstration mode enables its followers to strive to achieve certain price of capabilities. There are primary (internal) value fashion: modern, univerality (fashion knows no boundaries, except for temporary), demonstration (fashion is a way of communication and allows to demonstrate social status, and communicate information about themselves), game (fashion linked Heuristic with creative activities, encourages the search for a new, with building new and old as the opening of the new). Culture in XX century considers the game as a universal element of human culture. The game is a form of comprehension of the world, and fashion - a form of behavior of the game, following a kind of «rules of the game» (modern standards). Fashion is also linked to the concepts of «role-playing game» and «social role», as a significant certain social status, social status or imitation. There are also secondary (external) value of fashion that determined by the particular situation and the type of fashion parties, which may have conflicting values: social equality or elite, beauty and comfort (comfort), etc. Secondary demonstrated the value of related rights to peace and to themselves, to society and social institutions, to nature (environmental values); 4) The behavior of modern fashion - behavior-based fashion standards, facilities and property. Fashion has the following functions: 1. Innovation - fashion stimulates experimental starting in society and culture, the search for a new, to identify new, improved compared with previous, cultural patterns. 2. Regulatory - fashion introduces a way of life, new forms of behavior and new cultural models, selecting from a wide variety of cultural models, which for a time becomes the norm, making the person a choice and thereby helping to adapt to the changing world. Fashion provides the possibility of rupture with the immediate past and prepares for the near future. 3. Psychological - Fashion meets the psychological needs of human rights in newness, creating the illusion of changes in the expression of their dissatisfaction with social status. Fashion is the ACT of emotional detente, as part of a mechanism for the protection of mental overload, offering samples of finished cards on a massive scale. 4. Social - fashion skills rights to social and cultural heritage, and helps the perception of certain social norms and values and promotes the reproduction of a social system. In addition, fashion regulates social tensions in society, in carrying out function. 5. Prestige - fashion denotes social status, showing a higher social status, or creating the illusion of a higher social status. Through exemplary standards of facilities and fashionable elite fashion allows social groups to overcome feelings of inferiority. 6. Communicative - Fashion is a form of mass communication. 7. Economic - Fashion is a form of consumption and a form of advertising of new products, the regulator of consumer behavior and in increasing sales. Fashion affects human behavior in the field of consumption in certain requirements. In the field of fashion developed standards of consumption and social way of things. 8. Aesthetic - Fashion meets aesthetic requirements, reflecting the peculiarities of mass aesthetic taste, a way to extend aesthetic ratings in society. Todays fashion is reflected in changes in society, the relevant period of transition from an industrial society to a post, which rejects the hierarchical system of standards and assessments. More recently, against the backdrop of the famous fashion capitals - Paris, Milan, New York - London has traditionally looked quite modestly. Londons reputation as the absolute center of the classic mens fashion is largely based on the skill tailors Savil Raw. On the other hand, it was thought that London is a factory for young designers, avant-garde: the Julian McDonald, John Galliano, Stella McCartney and Alexander McQueen - graduates of the famous British fashion colleges. Yet the level of fashion events, the volume of investment in the fashionable business England apparently lost their competitors. But recently the situation has changed radically: London Fashion actively asserting itself as a powerful and independent phenomenon. This phenomenon is now supported by special government programs to find and support young talent, and the tangible financial investments, and cultural thought-out actions. For example, in 2005 at Londons City Museum has an exhibition «London style» (London Look). Curator of the exhibition - Christopher Bruard, Caroline Evans and Edwin Herman tried to identify the identity of the London style, analyzing how history and current state of the capital of fashion(Finney, 2006). The exhibition is divided into five sections: «Innovations», «tradition», «alternative», «Synthesis», «Today». The key concept of the exhibition is spontaneous originality of London street style as a source of avant-garde fashion: often it is at Londons streets and in youth clubs designers is a source of inspiration for new collections. Street Style London Fashion sometimes produces a strange impression on an unprepared audience: instead strict ladies in dresses from Laura Ashley and gentlemen in suits, the streets of the British capital are full of the audience: girls in unimaginable dresses, torn kind of strange, but Metro can find a young man in Thrace and the cylinder of the 19-th century, probably gathered in the club or a party to the wedding. However, the jazz and extravagance has impressive cultural traditions. Back in London after the war gained a reputation as the capital of youth fashion, and since then the city «scene» worked all kinds of alternative styles. Punk-style, which appeared in mid-1970s with the light hand of Malcolm Mc-Larene, leader of a group of «Sex pistols» and the owner of the youth clothing store on the famous Kings Road, is still attractive to radical youth. Classical attributes appearance of punk in 1970 included roughly painted in electric colors (later to become agglutinate comb), coloured red and black eyes, bright lipstick. The costume consisted of old, contaminated items: black leather jackets, T-shirts with a short word or obscene images on the chest, preferably shabby jeans and shoes with heavy rough soles(Finney, 2006). Nowadays, many methods punk aesthetics are adopting by modern designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier, and the first at this track came Vivienne Westwood, by the way, the former wife of Malcolm Mc Larene. That mood - freedom, protest, negligence, irony - is read in other variants of English street fashion. On the Diversity of the London-based style can be seen from the website London Street Fashion, which illustrates the variations of street style to selected urban areas. The main motto of the London style - mix and match, that means the software mixing expensive and cheap things and modern fashion. Subtle art of mixing different styles of literate largely linked to the cosmopolitan atmosphere of the British capital as a «melting pot» for immigrants from different countries. Not surprisingly, that it is at Londons streets and in youth clubs designers get a source of inspiration for new collections. Particular attention is usually honored with urban markets - Kemden Town, Petty Kout Lane, as well as the Bohemian area of Notting Hill, where every year runs luxury Carnival. Its no secret that it is often possible to see well-known designers: for example, Sir Paul Smith loves to walk just in the area of Notting Hill, where there is his company shop. London street style - street wear - this is one more zest of Misty Albion and its inhabitants. And there are two chic: sport and flea. Sporty is easily considered by availability of baggy trousers, short top opening the abdomen, and sneakers. And now almost all the eminent firms - Prada, Gucci, Yamamoto - have released their sports lines. And this shoe is often more expensive than usual. Flea chic clothing created from the markets and second-hand and a bold combination of things from the well-known designers. Londoners show respect to those who are dressed in a collection dress from a single designer. They are convinced that this does not give the opportunity to feel free! So everyone wants to have a lot of things, not necessarily expensive, the main - well chosen. Generally for Londoner promenade to the market - this is a ritual, no less significant than the traditional five oclock tea. Especially popular are three markets: Portobello Market in Notting Hill Gate - the most prestigious. They exhibited the rich and the artists represented in the abundance of antique things; Camden Market - the market more extreme. Thats where the meeting appoint punks and rock musicians. Therefore, you can easily buy the chain and the military-style clothing; still, the special glory enjoyed Spitalfields Market. It is less well known among tourists. But it is there are indigenous Londoners. And an equal footing with the most basic economic clothing type of soap they could find things and collection of young designers. And it is acceptable for the money. London fashion is primarily aimed at ease. Hence, there was even a «philosophy low heels» - virtually all prefer sports shoes. London is inherently more free in style. All are what they want. Moreover, it is not accepted, when everything is too well chosen: a bag of color comes to shoes, a skirt to top, blusher to lipstick. London Fashion Week is a unique annual event in the fashion calendar, which attracts the capital of the UK leading fashion magazine editors, photographers, designers, stylists and make-up and simply wealthy people from all over the world - here the latest trends in the next season are represented. Fashion Week in London follows New York Fashion Week. The most well-known designers the world, representing their collections season autumn - winter, for the week are at the center of attention, and generously offered us a look, what colors, styles, accessories and images will be popular when the hot summer. It happened that many dresses capture the imagination of viewers, will never go beyond the stage - because we accustomed to jeans clothing and T-shirt. Nevertheless, it is on these shows are mainstream trends of future seasons, and leading retailers represent the view of the reaction of potential buyers for certain aspects of the proposed style. This year - though, as always - at the London Fashion week, the world famous designers presented a variety of styles. We have tried to summarize the results of this outstanding event, and guess what might be in our cloakrooms. In London, and in the New York fashion week podiums filled free flow of apparel fabrics - tunics, dresses, blouses and sweaters over wide trousers. The volume is a key trend next season, which will especially like fans comfortable and warm clothes. Designer Todd Lyn androgynous used this style in its collections, wearing models of both sexes in the same trousers and twist - right, the parade of clones. Baggy clothes in the mens style remains in vogue for a long time already, and, frankly speaking, this style is not for everyone. But now this trend has changed - judging by the clothes on the catwalk - a combination of narrow baggy jeans makes it much more femininity. If you belong to a fan of this style, try to combine a mini-dress tunics, in the spirit of the 60s with volume sweater. (Finney, 2006) Clothes with prints - the current trend of the spring-summer season, so if you want to look fashionable year-round, be sure to buy a dress with prints. However, some designers have abandoned the feminine flowers patterns and exotic animal prints in favor of a clear picture of architectural drawings. This print fits perfectly into the overall trend of inheritance fashion of 80s. House of Fashion Basso & Brooke was one of the first brought this trend on the podium at which time cheats our expectations, as well as unusual prints decorated in its collections available silhouettes and voluminous skirts-«bubbles» - contrast with narrow tunics with the prints, which can now be seen in shop windows stores. Lovers prints advised to pay attention to free blouses with wide sleeves (remember - we have to look blouse with precise geometric pattern). Although the slender models at London Fashion week, can afford to wear these voluminous dresses without anything, you have to combine this trend with jeans and a wide leather belt - it underscores the proportions of the figure and the delicacy waist. Last year for London Fashion Week was a real test. Moreover, the Council of Fashion sounded the alarm in connection with thin models, and the authorities threatened to stop funding this loud event, so even the traditional five days of the week trying to reduce to three. However LFW stood. «Business-Style», as always, says that the most memorable impression in the past. Giles Deacon, one of the most discussed of British designers, dedicated his collection of famous computer game of the 1980s Mac-Pan. Brand Giles was launched only in 2003, but over the past three years has managed to acquire a reputation provocateur, is looking for new ways to create womens clothing. All 37 items, designer collections were packed with futuristic, fantastic spirit, expressed in colorful dresses and skirts of huge round helmets on their heads. Many dresses, despite some collections were completely «wearable»: short narrow dresses probably will soon be on the streets of world capitals, as long voluminous gown of white silk with a black print, reminiscent of the trace pens, would even come to a red track - do not nothing to show one could see many stars, among whom was a young fashionista Emma Watson. Make an inspiration for his new collection of film «Planet monkeys» could probably only Christopher Kane. According to his sister Tammy, with whom they worked together when he said the word «Prehistoric», it was absolutely clear that this happens. However, as the work of organza, leather, and some of the materials normally used for mens clothes, folded in tunics, skirts and blouses from carved semi giving clothing volume and geometric. This design was a logical continuation of the huge prints that Kane used in his last collection, only this time the images presented by the designer, really like people who inhabited our planet a million years ago. For the legendary brand Jaeger, founded 123 years ago, it was only the second year of participation in the London Fashion Week, so as to get on the London stage a major British retailer succeeded only in 2007. Mark Jaeger firmly occupies a niche of premium class, providing an expensive womens clothing, and participated in the London last week, in which there is Kate Moss, only reinforced the popularity of the brand. The last show demonstrated that the brand is still on the crest of success, but, as noted by critics, with each passing year, it younger and younger. The last show of brand Mulberry, famous for its leather bags ultramodern, was debut of the new creative director Emmy Hill, formerly created the accessories for Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Halston and the Gap. Her first collection for the brand embedded all gained experience in America, was dedicated to both women and men. For girls, all things were simply nice and short: beige dress with fluffy skirts, short jackets of shabby skin and bright (orange and lemon-yellow) dress with a voluminous overhead pockets in the company with small-heeled sandals. The same standard casual-look, and waited for the male fans brand: colored jeans, shorts, sport coats of waterproof material and narrow pink shirt. The new collection for sports brand Adidas introduced Stella McCartney, invited to his show of British athletes who participated in the Beijing Olympics. Models demonstrated not only their acrobatic and gymnastic skills, but also a new bathing suits, clothing for yoga, tennis, swimming and golf. The collection was a very feminine, sexual and at the same time modern in his desire to be as less harmful to the environment. Thus, in the autumn-summer collection included shoes from recycled materials and organic cotton. Convinced a vegetarian, Stella abandoned the use of fur and leather in his clothes, but, in her words, it does no harm to create things that meet all the requirements of the modern woman. One of these requirements is a healthy lifestyle. Stella did not even entertain the guests began showing champagne, instead of offering them a variety of juices. Incidentally, the show took place in an unusual format for Fashion Week: the model of the stage show performed simultaneously in different parts of the room, making guests feel that they are in this gym. It should be noted that the recent Fashion Week was full of numerous «brazen» along its translucent fabric is a view that at a bare chest, the underwear. Among the designers decided to stick to sexually explicit, and Marcus Lupfer, chief designer brand Armand Basi. It is dominated by a collection of transparent organza jacket, trousers of the net fabric and light transparent dresses, covering perhaps the most intimate parts of the female body. Nevertheless, the designer stayed true to his love for structuring and waived shaped collars, round skirts, slacks, bananas, and the unexpected use of bright colors against a background of white, black and gray. The theme of eroticism was kept by world-famous designer Jenny Packham, to speak, by the way, in 2006, Russian Fashion Week. Jenny has earned fame for its beautiful, surprising femininity and intricately sewn cocktail, evening and wedding gowns, which prefer to go by Kate Moss, Nicole Kidman, Merayya Carrie, Rene Zelvegger, Brittani Murphy and many other stars. At this time, spring-summer mood created by the designer of various shades of pink favorite women: from milky pink and light purple to rich crimson and passionate Alogo. In general, the collection was sustained in the traditional style of Jenny Packham: to make things are still feel the most beautiful, elegant and sensual woman on Earth. Taking into consideration the main events of contemporary life we should remember about crisis which seized all spheres of our life, especially economy. Economy is closely connected with fashion. For some applications, it became known that the clothes will not sag because of the economic crisis, but also in price, too. Because of the crisis, many people have become more economically take their money, for example, some have been buying fewer clothes, while others save on their entertainment. And these savings are increasing, due to the threat of dismissal or reduction in pay. With the reduction in purchasing power will decrease the income of shops, but it does not mean that they will all close. Many experts say that the fate of a small income will affect not only foreign brands, but also our home. Because of the small orders, sewing will be glad to any cooperation that may favorably influence the price to buyers of domestic products. It is estimated that the market participants, it was stated that because of the difficult situation, purchasing power will be reduced to two times, but they are not rushing to conclusions and do not reduce prices. Since the rent is not yet falling, but prices still the same at one level, and in some cases even increased, for the fall of prices of products do not exist. The problem becomes that the goods on documents issued in U.S. dollars, as many contracts, and rate it very unstable. The goal of producers and sellers is the maximum adjusted to the conditions of crisis, so they see an increase in output of manufacturing and selling more affordable brands of clothes, according to the demand for it will increase to 30%. There can remain calm seller of exclusive brands, as well as a low probability that a small audience of fans of the garment will remain insolvent (Smith, 2008). Last week, an expert on fashion, and a former editor of British magazine Harvey Nichols Tamasin Doe walking along the central street of the city and heard the dialogue between the girl and the manager in a well-known boutique. Store manager asked the saleswoman to take a red marker and make a discount on almost all goods. "But we just got it" - surprised employee. "I know - replied the manager - but it is an order of management." Dow, which had previously been the director of fashion in the magazine InStyle, surprised no fewer sales. "I never did see this - she said, - The summer sale has just ended, and boutiques have already offered discounts, which are usually only at the January sales. This is unbelievable - it seems, now is the time constant sales." According to the edition of The Telegraph, the financial crisis severely affected shops and the UK. Miss Sixty Company can not pay their debts. Firms Oasis, Karen Millen and House of Fraser, owned by retail giant from Icelands Baugur, last week caught in a difficult position in relation to the decline of the Icelandic economy. Now negotiations are under way for a partial purchase of Baugur, Sir Philip Green. Also in British society have been rumors going on the temporary dismissal of the famous boutiques sellers. Consortium retailers Britain unveiled gloomy figures, according to which people will buy less and less. Of course, sellers of this is not easy, but there is a reverse side of the coin. In an attempt to attract customers, many stores offer discounts absolutely unprecedented. On sale in the goods may be, is not sold in summer, but if you prefer, you can find discounts and the spring-winter collections this year. Richard Dodd of the British retail consortium said: "I think we are far away from the usual two sales a year. Some time discounts will be everywhere, but it is only in the hands of buyers." After the sexual frivolity of summer wardrobe, with its bright open gowns, playful costumes and colored fabrics, it is necessary to prepare for winter. As always, designers have many ideas how to dress for the cold time. One of the options has been widely developed during the last impression - ultraconservative style, reflecting the prevailing gloom in the world in relation to the economic crisis. Puritan style is a characteristic of many collections of modern fashion, the art which can not influence in the world changes. Even the bourgeois brands such as Prada, provided fans a more modest version of wardrobe, shared with the mood of people forced to abandon these days a lot. "As usual, fashion reflects the changes in the economy and of human consciousness - Viver Jude said the company Worth Global Style Network. - This new puritanism - reaction to the global financial crisis, not as the need to spend less money, but as a more modest approach is to stimulate consumer interest ". Thus, in the Prada show in Milan dominated the four main models: the white shirts on buttons, long skirts, lace up boots and closed dresses eclectic Victorian style with lace. Marni dull mood reflected in the minimalist and multilayered. For example, were offered long dresses over trousers. The main trick, which advises to use brand - strange proportions, which can be simply and tastefully stand out from the crowd. At Fashion Week in London, a popular brand Luella returned to the classic black color and the simple style. Dresses of dark colors proposed to combine with bright tights (red, orange), and warm woolen suits - with young ladies hat with the fields. Designers who supported fashion breath are Prada, Richard Nichols, Luella Bartley and Consuelo Castiglioni able to predict the situation in the world for 18 months. The new trend is puritanism - it is a social phenomenon, which is a regulation of the personal desires of pleasure, " - says Christophe Juan organization of Future Foundation. According to experts, the origins of modern puritanism not only in the economic crisis. Enormous role in its emergence played a concern the future of the environment caused by rapid global warming. That is why the more modest eco-friendly things, such as Stella McCartney, are becoming increasingly popular. Works cited Breward Christopher , Ehrman Edwina , Evans Caroline , The London Look: Fashion from Street to Catwalk, Yale University Press, 2004 Finney Kathryn, How to Be a Budget Fashionista: The Ultimate Guide to Looking Fabulous for Less, Ballantine Books, 2006 ONeill Alistair , London: After a Fashion, Reaktion Books, 2007 Smith Raven, Club Kids: Underground Culture, Black Dog, 2008 Tucker Andrew, London Fashion, Thames & Hudson, 2003 Read More