Globalization of Fashion: When Fashion Kills - Dissertation Example

 Globalization of Fashion: When Fashion Kills Introduction Ever since Man became aware of his body; the process of adorning and beautifying himself with various means and objects has been a continuous practice. With the threshold of postmodernism and technological advancement the term ‘Globalization’ has been widely used in various researches of different genre. As for fashion, Globalization is perceived to be quite multifaceted and contentious. The proposed work is focusing on the advancement of clothing industry which eventually joined the rising brigade of Globalization in the 19th century. It also triggers to find the reasons behind the need for its commencement; the anchors in this research would be the key generating points of ‘How’ and ‘Why’ the Globalization of fashion happened. This methodology consists of four sections, all revolving around the proposed theme with sub sections to elaborate and understand the causes and effects. The helpful resources in this research are some prominent books, documents and Blogs. Some usefully relevant information is also derived from the Internet. The first section attempts to discuss the early manifestation of the industrial revolution while the second one focuses on how the Globalization of the clothing industry happened and how it helped the economy of a nation to rise remarkably. The second last section projects the advantages and disadvantages of globalization. Finally the conclusion part is extremely vocal about an idealistic fashion industry in future. It discusses methods to attain sustainability within the industry and to encourage ethical manufacturing of cloths. History To understand the Globalization of The fashion Industry and its emergence; it is essential to examine the remarkable inventions in the history that led to the rise of such a vast dimensional network of business which literally governs our lifestyle today. As the Industrial revolution in 1700 began, it embarked a series of outstanding inventions of machines such as flying shuttle, through which large pieces of looms could be obtained. Spinning frame in the year 1769 was an on-going textile machine which revolutionized the process of textile production by shifting the manufacturing process from small units to Industries and factories. A Strong power loom in the year 1785 started the production of textiles in large quantity, it was operated mechanically (Mary Bellis 1). The first sewing machine in the year 1830 began an era of ready made clothing. Earlier, the dresses were mostly hand sewn and the availability was scarce. First small scale unit for ready made cloths started in America by a merchant named George Opdyke. He used to manufacture ready made dresses and sold it from his store (Mary Bellis1). The contribution of singer machine in the development of ready made clothing is outstanding. In the later decades after 1850’s, it emerged as a powerful medium to produce large quantity of readymade dresses (Mary Bellis1). The Industry not only offered variety of stocked up outfits but also other accessories like shoes, hand bags or wallets as the singer machine was capable of sewing leather and thick fabrics too (Mary Bellis 1). It is impossible to discuss the emergence of Fashion Industry in the early 20th century and not mention Art Nouveau. It was a philosophy that offered decorative arts visual art; blending the aesthetics of classical art forms with technological substances. It lasted from 1890-1914, and was quite popular in the entire Europe while globally its art forms were getting recognition. Modernist styles replaced this art form in the 20th century (Paul). The monuments and works offered by Art Noveu are considered to be a world heritage today. It offers an art student to examine the significant transition of Neoclassicism (Harper ) and Modern art forms. This medium provided a mode of expression to artists, designers and sculptures and it also invited the emerging industry of Fashion in the 20th century. The Era of Entertainment and Globalization With the introduction of different entertainment mediums like Television, films, Magazines, Theatre in the early and mid 20th century; People were became more self conscious and followed the latest trends. ("Your"). It seems quite relevant to add here the observance of Ben fine’s; on the work of Jean Baudrillard when he says- “The whole discourse on consumption, whether learned or lay, is articulated on the mythological sequence of the fable: a man ‘endowed' with needs which 'direct' him towards objects that 'give' him satisfaction. Since man is never really satisfied) for which, by the way, he is reproached), the same history is repeated indefinitely since the time of ancient fables (Fine, 67). The term ‘Globalization’ in easy language refers to a process of bringing countries of the world together to exchange views, products, services , people, facilities and to acquire mutual benefits and growth. In a theory (kevin H, and Jeffery G), it has been studied that 'Globalization' actually took the grip true to its meaning only in the 19th century. Countries all around the world integrated with each other by importing the product that was not manufactured in their country and exporting the product that was manufactured or available in their country (kevin H, and Jeffery G). It is important to understand the era in which this industry started experiencing its zenith, and its capability of catering to the demands of the ‘inspired masses’ ("Nist"). Media plays the most important role in influencing the masses. The arrival of pop culture inspired every boy to dress up like Elvis Presley ("Public Broadcasting Service (PBS)"). The film industry would motivate the yearning eyes of young girls to imitate just like those fashion divas. In the early days custom made designer outfits were meant to be only for the elite classes (Elizabeth 12).With the verge of the entertainment industry the hooplas of fashion reached every household ("Public Broadcasting Service (PBS)"). Since it was also the era of Industrial advancement; the growth in wealth was bound to happen and the growth in disposal income too (kevin H, and Jeffery G). Fashion became the focus of interest and indulgence. “Fashion is dress in which the key feature is rapid and continual changing of style (Elizabeth 3). She describes ‘fashion’ as a change which is quietly followed by people from all ethnicity, race, country or age. Fashion; influences the society in a way that; even uniforms of professionals are designed by designers, people from religious background may suddenly start wearing shorter skirt. The awareness of fashion has governed our lives to an extend that even a beggar could be seen roaming on the streets wearing and out dated piece of clothing which he might have brought from a second hand store. She also states that although the ‘latest style’ in a particular dress might in sync with the trend yet its detailing differs in terms of the country where it is manufactured and its targeted customers (Elizabeth 3). Some fashion designers in the mid 20th century; revolutionized the fashion world with their creation, today they are legends and they have built their empires for others to follow and get inspired (Gabriella). Fashion goes Global World’s oldest mode of transport to trade business was ships or animals but with the arrival of new technology; Railway networks and Airlines elevated the process of Globalization to a new level. On one hand the countries were exchanging commodities because of the technological advancement which provided with improved, fast and better modes of transports (WTO). While on the other hand the vast cultural gap was fading away between nations, gradually people started adopting, recognizing and appreciating similar trends and ‘Fashion’ became a globally accepted term to follow and live by. Internet and computer brought the whole world under one platform (Elena). With Globalization; the fashion or the clothing industry contributed a lot to the economical development of the country. This industry has no dearth of ideas for phenomenal growth and opportunities for young talents. Fashion photography, fashion journalism, choreography, fashion designer, stylist, make up artist, accessories or jeweler designer, all these respective careers are an extension of this very multifaceted industry (Moxyl). The Economic Growth According to a news report (Lauren) fashion industry contributes almost £37 billion to the economy of UK where as the global economy of Fashion Industry alone is around £500 billion each year and it keeps growing. Fashion is considered to be the top 15th Industry in UK. According to a report the British fashion council is determined to provide support to this sector and promote it to the global market because its contribution to UK‘s economy is quite significant. (“BFC”).Boom in a particular sector allows several prospects for citizens to participate and make handsome money, and it eventually ensures a better lifestyle and high standard of living (Pauline Weston). Globalization in the Apparel sector; offers big competitions as well as bigger success too. With Privatization entrepreneurs dive in to the pool of international market to explore its chances of success and money making (Pauline Weston ). The choices are unlimited, today with Globalization, an African woman may be aware of a ‘kimono’ and an Irish girl would definitely know what an Indian sari is all about. Alejandro calls this as cultural influence, or social recognition (Alejandro Guerrero, David, and et al). With foreign trade investment; the market of developed nations continues to grow while on the other hand globalization brings neck to neck fight of survivals for companies. A stiff competition in the industry forces the management to minimize manufacturing cost and find out means to maximize profit. In this struggle, they choose to hire labors in a developing country which automatically reduces their production cost as the labors in such countries are very cheap and is available in large volume. This practice is quite common in many developing nation and news for exploitation of labors within the clothing industry are often doing the rounds globally (ERIC, and INDRA DE), (Economy). Globalization and its adversities There is a revolt for the rights of workers in the fashion industry which has taken a centre stage among all the issues concerning Globalization. The condition of the labors in this sector has degraded to a level that it has caused many revolutionist writers to write about these workers’ present state. Writer Andrew Ross thus discusses in his book that – ‘Price tags provide vague clues, but even "made in the USA' labels don’t tell us very much anymore, and are sometimes sewn on in Asia or Central America. For those looking for more Information, the garment union UNITE's consumer guide points out the "the care tag tell you how to treat the garment but not how the worker who made it was treated’ (Andrew 10). Globalization provided the developed nations with an outstanding growth in their economy where as the developing nations kept on degrading by providing efficient workers and getting poor wages in return. Raw materials and other commodities are still being exported from such countries providing them with a very less profits .When they reach their destination , they are manufactured in to fine products or ready to wear dresses with engraved logos and branded labels. Ross provides an eye opening fact of ‘Labors trafficking’ she further writes – ‘In August 1995, A DOL raid on the El Monte compound in Southern California uncovered seventy two thousand Thai workers behind barbed-wire fences, locked up around the clock to produce garments’. (Andrew 29) If this is the globalization of clothing industry then it is even more frightening to imagine the future consequences of such exploitation. Will there be any strong movement to stop this torture, exploitation, and the process of providing silent deaths to those countless workers? (Economy). One such heart pondering incident is described by Rivoli in her book The Travel of a T shirt, she mentions about an incident that encouraged her to write this book. ‘Back at Georgetown in 1999, I watched a young woman seize the microphone."Who made your T-shirt"? She asked the crowd. “Was it a child in Vietnam, chained to a sewing machine without food or water? Or a young girl from India earning 18 cents per hour, who is forced to work 90 hours each week, without over time pay?’ Pietra 10). She describes about the journey she took to find out who really made her T-shirt, she was successful in her expedition while confronted with some brutal truth of the industry. She adds there to describe this experience as a story of Globalization- about politics, people and markets that created her T-shirt. (Pietra 11). She is courageous and extremely honest to demonstrate the exploitation in Tanzania by American companies, in the following chapters she writes about the export of used clothing from Americans and Europeans known as ‘Mitumba’, she is astonished to see that none of the locals were wearing any of their traditional African dresses, she further states her honest expression – ‘What could be less self-reliant or more symbolically dependent than a nation clothed in the white world's castoffs’. (Pietra 229). These aspects of Globalization can never be ignored; export of used clothing was the 3rd largest US export to Tanzania in 2007(Pietra 229). There was a recent trend of Jeans which had ‘worn-out’ look and was quite popular, many youngsters and celebrities had adorned the look. The famous brand Levi Strauss and Hennas & Maritz had also marketed their ‘worn-out’ jeans with expensive posters and appealing advertisements but with the rise of ‘Sandblasting’ issue; they announced to stop the production of such jeans. Sandblasting is a process where materials of high velocity are propelled in the jeans to give it that faded and old look. This effort came from the senior vice president Levi Strauss and it is greatly commendable. Those who wore such jeans would have no idea that the person who was engaged in giving that faded look might have suffered with lung disease like silicosis while working and inhaling the chemicals (Lawrence). Exploitation does exist in the industry, but this fact cannot be ignored that companies engaged in the clothing business have to survive stiff competition. Any kind of success or failure within this industry; effects those innumerable people in different ways, who are working within the hierarchy system of this industry. There should be more research to find sustainable methods and systematic process to balance the demand -supply chain. Alison Gwitt and Tomo Rissanen describes ‘sustainability’ as a process of searching new innovative methods to refashion and produce sustainable clothing ( Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen 13) They further write in their book that to achieve this goal; sustainability in the industry should be adopted as the major step towards intelligent production and supply of clothes. They recommend focusing on People, Profit and Planet in this very order, they write - The major source of the problem in achieving a sustainable fashion industry is the consumer. (Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen 21) They have also suggested some measures for fashion designers and for companies to focus on producing such marvels that are sustainable, They also add some case studies and offered considerations like- To refashion the clothing, so it can be reused for a long time, a collection of prototype that involves minimum usage of fabrics and is sewn straight; which insures less wastage of fabrics. The idea here is that; to adopt a method which ensures minimum wastage and maximum usage. It can also be done through recycling and creating new concepts out of the very same dress. (Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen 29) Such methods will not only help in minimizing the competitive burden, or the pressures on the designers to create new designs but with these adoptions there will be less wastage. This will also help the demand-supply chain to lose some weight and be on a lighter side. Fewer burdens and less exploitation of labors will ensure a promising future of Fashion Industry in the truest sense of Globalization. With the sound idea of People-Profit- Planet, workers can be benefitted by improved working conditions and also good remuneration. Conclusion We discussed about the inception of the clothing industry which was followed by The Industrial revolution. The introduction of sewing machine was a remarkable threshold for the clothing industry which gradually advanced towards the emergence of retail Industry of ready made. That’s how fashion, an ‘Industry’ was born. The need and desire that took a toll in to demand and supply chain of a nation. With the technological advancement; the International market soon became a verge in building bridges and connecting the countries of the world with each other that had never happened in the history before. As the era of entertainment began, the consciousness of appearance was quite evident in people and specially women. With retail Industry gaining popularity, it started to influence people from all age groups through advertisement, television shows and magazines. The contribution to the economy instilled the trust in Government and the support was provided to the clothing industry for its International venture, hence ‘Trade Business’ went GLOBAL. Not only did the Industry grow bigger financially but also opened up new channels for talented people i.e. - The expansion of the Fashion Industry in to various other genres like photography, fashion journalism, fashion stylist, make up artist, accessory designer or jeweler designer and likewise. Although the Globalization of the fashion Industry is a celebration but the regular rounds of controversies concerning labor trafficking and their exploitation frequently leaks out and continues to fill the ears of the people who are ready to take the call and fight back for innocent lives. In the end a discussion on ‘sustainability’ of fashion production seems promising and provides a hope for a good balance in the demand-supply chain. With such strong measures and recognizing the rights of labor class, the future of fashion industry would definitely be more promising and inspiring. Ending this essay with a quote by William Greider would be apt- The great, unreported story in globalization is about power, not ideology. It's about how finance and business regularly, continuously insert their own self-interested deals and exceptions into rules and agreements that are then announced to the public as "free trade. References Mary Bellis, . "The Textile Revolution." About.com Inventors. n.d. 1. Web. 19 Nov. 2012. . Paul , Greenhalgh. "A new style for a new age." National Gallery of Art-Anatomy of an exhibition. National Gallery of art, Washington DC, n.d. Web. 19 Nov 2012. . Harper. "Neoclassicism." Collins Discovery Encyclopedia. 2005. . Your, Library. 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