Factors Affecting Consumption And Buying Decision - Research Paper Example

Factors Affecting Consumption And Buying Decision 4. Literature Review 4. Introduction Cosmetics play a major role in our day to day lives depending upon the extent of one’s needs for it. In the past, the use of cosmetics was mostly associated with feminism and the feminine gender. But this is not so in our contemporary times, because over the years, the modern male has been greatly attracted towards the use of cosmetics and this has paved the way for a widespread cosmetic industry. The meaning of cosmetics today has taken on a whole new dimension in the production and usage of cosmetics, as people understand that it not only makes them physically attractive but adds a lot to the way they project themselves in society. The objective of the literature review of this research is to provide theoretical perspectives on male consumption behaviour particularly on cosmetic products as well as the synthesis of existing literature to identify relevant potential significant factors affecting their consumption and buying decision. This research paper is directed towards the use of cosmetics by the modern male consumer with a special focus on the purchase of cosmetics from Thailand. The study will also attempt to gauge the impact that the cosmetic industry in Thailand has on the male section of society and try to form an analysis of what’s behind the changes that have taken place over the years. The literature search will be conducted by using library research, electronic resources and other reliable sources. Most of them are academic and trade journals. The discussion in this part will lead to the construction of proposed hypotheses. 4.1 Attitude Formation and Decision Making Most researchers hold the opinion that an attitude comprises of three components namely 1) Affect, 2) Behaviour and 3) Cognition. The manner of feeling of the consumer about an attitude object is what is referred to as ‘Affect’. The consumer’s intention of doing something about an attitude object would be his ‘Behaviour’, and forming his beliefs about an attitude object is what is referred to as ‘Cognition.’ In short this is called the ABC model and it lays emphasis on the interrelationship shared between the three attitude components of knowing, feeling and doing. (pg. 140) A consumer’s level of motivation decides on the importance of each attitude component. A hierarchy is constructed based on the consumer’s attitudes towards his purchasing behaviour. Firstly, the consumer goes through a problem solving process when he approaches any product. Secondly, the consumer forms beliefs about the product by acquiring knowledge of a product's attributes. An evaluation of the product is carried out by the customer based on his beliefs and his feeling of the product is formed. (Affect) (Gary M. Erikson, Johny K. Johansson and Paul Chao, 1984) http://www.scribd.com/doc/25903519/Michael-Solomon-Consumer-Behaviour-A-European-Perspective Factors such as belief and behaviour do play a major role in attitude formation that the most important is a consumer’s overall evaluation that goes to form the core of an attitude. However, consumer attitudes can be influenced by other tangible attributes of the product such as packaging, layout and design that act as stimuli for product. Fishbein’s model based on the theory of reasoned action is used to predict consumer attitudes towards purchase behaviour and has been successful to great extent in measuring their behavioral intentions. The use of cosmetics dates back to the ancient period of the pre-historic times when cosmetics were not used for beautification alone but were intermingled with practices that were both religious as well as medical. According to the ancient Egyptians civilization that dates back to 3000 B.C kohl (used as eye shadow) vases were found in the tombs that were excavated. (Dr. Louis Ho Tan, 2008) In the fifth century BC, the Babylonians were found to have used vermilion and white lead to paint their faces in addition to perfuming their body. The ancient Greeks too used the alkanet plant and lichens to dye their hair and colour their lips and cheeks. (Dr. Louis Ho Tan, 2008) As man became more civilized, his tastes and attitudes towards the use of cosmetics were further developed and became more refined and sophisticated as they understood it did wonders to enhance their beauty and personality and this realization, revolutionized the Cosmetic industry. (Jean Ann Graham, Albert M. Kligman, 2007) Cosmetic products may be defined as those products that are used for the superficial beautifying of the body in order to make it attractive and appealing. Cosmetic products may be used on parts of the body such as the epidermis, lips, teeth, mouth and the capillary system of the body for cleansing, removing bad odour, modifying or rectifying and for perfuming the body. In these contemporary times attitudes of the male section of society have drastically changed over the years. What was taboo a few centuries ago has now become the norm because tastes and attitudes have taken on a whole new perspective. The use of cosmetics by males in contemporary society has crossed all boundaries of what is acceptable and what is not acceptable for the mere fact that men’s attitudes have changed by doing away with conservative thinking. This attitude change is not only seen in terms of their physical appearance but also to bridge the gap between the psychological discriminations related to appearances which are very evident in our society. (Jean Ann Graham, Albert M. Kligman, 2007) Males today have become all the more aware of their physical appearance and hence have changed their attitudes towards the concept of using cosmetics in order to give themselves the right projection in society. One of the primary reasons for this is that those who are attractive are given more preferences than people who are not so attractive. (Jean Ann Graham, Albert M. Kligman, 2007) This discrimination among the male gender of society has its own repercussions and therefore that trend has changed, paving the way for a total shift in attitude with regard to the use of cosmetics. However, (Albaum and Peterson 1984; Hui and Triandis 1985; Lee and Green 1991) are of the opinion that the testing of attitude behavior models have been carried out in the U.S and hence there is a dire need to check the cross – national applicability of these concepts and models in relation to other countries and other cultures. The attitudes towards advertising different products correlates with the cultural background of a country and therefore would differ in its presentation. Important literature on cross cultural psychology clearly states that attitudes based on theories cannot be generalized because the relationship between the different constructs have to be clearly established first in a country before it is accepted as a theory. (Berry 1980; Drasgow and Kanfer 1985; Irvine and Carroll 1980; Triandis 1982) 4.2 Self - Image Self image which is referred to the perceptions individuals have of what they are like (Goldsmith et al., 1999) is found to be one of significant factors influencing grooming product consumption of male consumers. Men consume male grooming products in order to create, develop, and maintain their desired self image and identity (Featherstone, 1993; Thompson and Hirschman, 1995) Furthermore, Kellner (1992) also supported that consumption of cosmetic products involves the consumption of the ideas and images associated with the product, but more importantly the identity created by the consumption of the product. The use of cosmetics allows an individual to manipulate their physical attractiveness in a major way because it creates a major impact on the other individuals in this society. Every individual is unique and has their own likes and dislikes, feelings and emotions and beliefs based on their cultural background and upbringing. The concept of ‘self’ is looked upon as an important object to be pampered according to their desires. Eastern and western cultures consider the ‘self’ to be made of two parts – one which is very private and the other an outer public self. From a Freudian and Psychoanalytical perspective, the ‘self’ is looked upon as competing forces filled with conflict. From a cognitive standpoint, ‘self’ is looked upon as an organizing force that serves as a nucleus around which new information is processed. Meryl Paula Gardner, (1985) Based on the ‘role of identies’ to be played, the components within the ‘self’ become active at different times. Based on the identities of ‘self’ an individual forms his own self concept which makes up his beliefs and the manner in which he evaluates the different attributes. Self- concept of an individual can be positive in some issues and negative in others. The positivity of a person’s self-concept makes up his self esteem. Individuals with low self esteem try to avoid embarrassment for fear of failure and rejection. And individual’s attitude towards purchasing a product could change due to stimulating positive feelings and raising self esteem. (Jeffrey F. Durgee, (1986) Individuals define their ‘self image’ through the consumption of products (Firat et al., 1995) and seek to alter their image to suit various roles in their lives (Aaker, 1999). Thus, it is argued that cosmetics are considered as one of the tools men may use to boost or change their self concept and image. The use of particular products is dependent on the image which a man wishes to present. Attitudes towards purchasing cosmetics by men in Thailand have a high communicative value that is closely associated with self image and self identity. The buying and using of cosmetics influence a person’s perceptions because the impact it has on personal appearance (Belk, 1978). Some of these influences could be from family, spouse, friends, associates and colleagues. Fishbein and Ajzen conducted a study based on a theoretical framework to try and understand the extent of influence that cosmetic products had in relation to Thai men’s self image and attitudes of purchase behaviour. A special questionnaire with the relevant questions was distributed to Thai men between the ages of 21 to 50 years. On completion of the questionnaires the data was analyzed using factor and regression analysis, correlation and pathway analysis using the 15.0 SPSS version. The results retrieved proved that purchase behaviour of cosmetics by Thai men was greatly influenced by self- image, beliefs and other normative influences. Therefore, Fishbein and Ajzen’s theory of reasoned behaviour appropriately explained the behaviour of specific consumption of cosmetic products by Thai men. The theory of the reasoned action model (TRA) by Fishbein and Ajzen is the most widely accepted model that is used to gauge the attitude constructs related to consumer behavior. (Ajzen & Fishbein, 1980) the salient features behind this theoretical framework encompasses relationships based on beliefs (Bi), normative structures (NBjMCj) attitudes (Aact) subjective norms (SN) Behavioral intentions (BI) and the actual behavior (B) in the following formula – B ~ BI = (Aact) w1 + (SN) w2 = and SN = (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1980) this theory explains specific attitudes and behaviour male customers purchase of cosmetic goods in relation to the other factors that influence it. According to (Sturrock & Pioch1998; Thompson & Hirschman 1995), skin care products are purchased by men “for the creation, development and maintenance of their “self image”. Therefore, self image has now been included in the TRA to enhance the prediction involving male consumer behaviour in Thailand. The chief benefit gained from the reasoned action model is due to the fact that it predicts as well as explains the intentions and purchasing behaviour of the male customer. (Ryan & Bonfield, 1975) In the past few years, males have become exceedingly conscious of their ‘self image’ which resulted in the escalating sales of male grooming products. Male grooming has become a new trend as they desire to adapt themselves to a more westernized lifestyle. On a global level, the cosmetic market has increased by 18% between the years 2006 to 2011 and is estimated to reach a value of $25 billion. (Mermelstein & Fielding, 2007) Among the countries in the Asia – Pacific region, Thailand is considered to one of the fastest progressing cosmetic industries with specific regard to the male grooming section. One of the chief reasons for such a huge boom in the cosmetic products of the mail grooming market may be due to the fact that the Thai government has initiated a campaign for promoting the country as the ‘future beauty capital of Asia’ (‘Unilever-P&G skincare war’ 2006). In particular, Thai’s skin care market has shown the greatest expansion because it had achieved a 30% growth in volume amounting to 3,800 million Baht in 2005. The equivalent for this in US dollars is 102.70 million) (‘Men’s grooming products-Thailand’ 2007). Based on above arguments, the following hypothesis is proposed: H1: the self image consciousness of Thai males is positively associated with their consumption of cosmetics product. Fear of Ageing The ageing population of a country can be defined as the increasing proportion of elderly people (60 years and over) with regard to the total population of a place. As a result of this, in the past three decades of the 20th century, there has been a massive decline in the mortality and fertility rate with regard to Thailand. (UNFPA, 2006) Therefore, Thailand is a witness to a rapidly growing older population and therefore, there is a persistent fear of ageing for the male and female population of Thailand. For the very first time in the history of ageing populations, it is expected that the older population of Thailand would out measure the children population by 2020. (UNFPA, 2006) To meet this huge demographic change, appropriate policies have to be put in place because of the widespread socio- economic implications that would occur. The Second World Assembly on Ageing that took place in Madrid in 2002 initiated an International Plan of Action on Ageing of which Thailand too was a signatory. The Government was called upon to take drastic steps to counter the ageing situation in Thailand and devise plans and policies to meet the consequences. (UNFPA, 2006) In western countries where population is ageing, people begin to perceive the body as the vital indicator of the self and more concern about visible physical ageing. To tackle the external signs of ageing, consumers increasingly pay high attentions to the youthfulness of the body (Coupland, 2007). They seek whatever approaches to decelerate the ageing process and maintain a youthful appearance as long as possible. This is also confirmed by Featherstone (1993) that the self-preservation of body encourages individuals to adopt instrumental strategies to combat the deterioration and decay and combine it with the notion that the body is a vehicle of pleasure and self expression. Although some studies report that men, in contrast to women, view age-related changes in their appearance as less hostile to their self esteem (Halliwell and Dittmar, 2003), some studies reflect the dramatic change in men’s attitude toward age. According to AC. Nielsen report (2006), 51% of North American, 49 per cent of European and 56% of men in Asia Pacific believe that their 30s are the new 20s. Also, almost half of the men respondents (57% in North America, 54% in Asia Pacific and 47% in Europe) consider that their 60s are the new middle age. Exposure to sun seems to be one of the problems facing people who reside in Asia and Latin America hence there is a great demand for photo- protection and anti- blemish products. Approximately 60% of males in Thailand complain about acne and oily skin, so there is a great demand for skin care products to cater to different types of skin. Approximately 70% of Thailand males, in the age group of 15 to 24 years make use of a cleansing lotion to take care of their skin. The study of Sturrock and Pioch (1998) disclose that men’s concern about the effect of ageing and retention of a youthful appearance are prevalent motives for their consumption of grooming products. Men use the products to fend off ageing in the context of relationship with the opposite sex; in remaining attractive. The findings revealed by L’Oreal report (2010) also support this opinion. It reported that men across the UK are turning to cosmetics as a means of overcoming ageing effects brought on by recession. The recession made them feel and look older in which the fear of wrinkles was also cited a key worry for men in the UK with 65% having already used, or would be open to using moisturizer to tackle the signs of ageing. An Ageing Index shows the proportionate difference between the older and the younger populations in Thailand. Presently Thailand’s Ageing Index is approximately 45 and is estimated to reach 100 by the year 2020. It is further estimated to increase to 140 by the year 2050. (Institute for Population and Social Research, 2002) However the rate of ageing is not uniform throughout the country. The highest incidence of the aging population occurs in the North and Northeast regions of Thailand and the chief reason for this is because of the migrating of the younger population in search of better opportunities for employment and education. The density of the aging population is much more in the rural areas than in the urban. The proportion of older persons is highest in the North and Northeast Regions Source: Institute for Population and Social Research, Mahidol University, Population Projections for Thailand,2005-2025, 2006, Percentage of older persons in total population 2005 2015 2025 THAILAND 10.3 14.0 19.8 Bangkok Metropolitan 8.6 11.9 18.6 Central (excl. Bangkok) 10.8 13.1 17.9 North 12.1 16.0 23.9 Northeast 9.6 14.7 21.4 South 10.4 13.2 17.8 Thus, this discussion leads to the proposed hypothesis: H2: ageing is positively associated with Thai men’s consumption of cosmetics. In other word, men’s cosmetic consumption in Thailand is highly motivated by the desire to retain a youthful appearance. 4.1 Physical Attractiveness There is no doubt that looks do matter a lot and hence the clamour to look physically attractive. The meaning of physical beauty are dominated by what can be seen explicitly including visible features such as face, body shape and visible traits such as grace and presence. There are multiple types of physical beauty and beauty is not a one dimensional construct (Solomon et al., 1992). Different cultures perceive different male appearance and traits beautiful. Thus, it is believed that beauty is highly dependent on culture, and although there are parallels within societies, it is still relative to each individual. Men are highly concern about their appearance; “being in good shape,” having “style,” and being “well groomed” as they perceived that the importance of an attractive appearance was tied partly to attracting the opposite sex and assisting in the attainment of career success. The desire to be attractive in the context of sexual and romantic situations underlie men motives for consumption of grooming products as such products will make them more presentable to women (Sturrock and Pioch, 1998). Furthermore, an increase in physical attractiveness among men is likely to occur as a response to socio-cultural pressure (Grogan, 1999). Being attractive offers better opportunities in life, especially in the workplace. Attractive people have found to receive better and more favorable treatment in hiring and carrier advancement compared with unattractive people (Etcoff, 1999; Shahani-Denning, 2003). According to a L’Oreal report (2010), it found that maintaining personal appearance is a key priority for the majority of British men; 78% of men nationwide claim that it is very important to maintain a good appearance. The move towards a growing acceptance of the importance of grooming is stimulated by personal ambition rather than pressure from friends and partners; 47 percent of men claim that a well managed personal appearance has helped them to progress in their career. Also, being well-groomed is seen by many men as a key factor in boosting their confidence and helping them to reach their personal goals; 72% of men and 84% of 18-29 year olds claim that being well-groomed makes them feel more confident. In lieu of physical attractiveness, the males in Thailand are not far behind the males in other parts of the world in relation to the use of cosmetic surgery to alter their physical appearance to suit their demands. In recent years, the cosmetic surgery industry has witnessed a great boom for the fact that males in Thailand desire to reinvent themselves. Thailand now offers a wide range of products for Cosmetic surgery that serves to transform the appearance of the Thailand male. The chief reason for using cosmetic surgery is to slow down the aging process and look younger than their chronological age. The range of cosmetic surgery products include, resizing, reshaping, nips, tucks, lifts in addition to implants or reductions as may be the case. A wide range of hospitals compete with each other on the basis of what the customer wants offering the above products in a state – of – the – art enclosure at very affordable rates. In a 2006 survey UNFPA – (2006) on physical appearance in relation to hair, eyes, body and teeth eyes and body were considered to be the most popular choices, while teeth was considered the next choice as many considered a good smile was a very attractive feature. Hence cosmetic dentistry became a booming industry because it enhanced the physical appearance of an individual. People tend to gauge or make an estimation of others based on their physical appearance, personality, social skills and their level of confidence. Thai males have a good understanding with regard to physical appearance and desire to look their best at all times. In trying to enhance their physical appearance Thai men go in for cosmetic dental procedures such as capping, shaping, whitening and porcelain veneers. Hence, the following hypothesis is proposed: H3: An innate desire for physical attraction is positively associated with Thai men’s consumption of cosmetics. In other words, the more they desire to appear attractive, the more they are interested in consuming cosmetic products. 4.5 Social Beliefs and Expectation Culture has a significant impact on consumer behaviour because the various components of culture, such as beliefs and values, customs and traditions dictate individual’s behaviour (Weber and Villebonne, 2002). Culture may be defined as “the set of basic values, perceptions, wants and behaviours learned by a member of society from family and other important institution” (Kotler et al., 2005). Social beliefs and expectations are based on the cultural backdrop of an individual and these in turn influence the purchasing behaviour with regard to cosmetics. Advertising or endorsing cosmetic products serves to influence the customers purchasing behaviour in relation to his social beliefs and expectations. It is a well known fact that individuals consume different products to fulfill different types of needs which are directly or indirectly influenced by their own cultural beliefs and expectations. One cultural aspect that influences the consumption behaviour of cosmetic products is the belief that men should be macho. In such societies, men are expected to be macho and thus the use of beauty items might be seen as a threat for their masculinity. In ancient times, men may have been afraid to enhance their physical appearance through the use of cosmetic or grooming products because, as the saying goes “beautiful men may get questioned about their sexual orientation” (Etcoff, 1999). However, the notion of masculinity which is defined as the socially accepted way of being a man has gradually changed today paving the way for a more modern attitude and doing away with conservatism. This seemed to be a logical connection with the emergence of the metro-sexual. People attitudes toward the term “metro-sexual” are various involving both positive and negative aspects. Some define men who are fashion and appearance-conscious as gay men, which is a negative aspect of consumer behaviour and consumption. Nizar and Mariam (2009) commented that metro-sexual is neither homosexual nor androgynous. To counter the image of cosmetics use as effeminate practice, marketers exercised number of strategies to communicate and shape new public ideas on using men’s grooming product. For instance, the solely-male product line was launched to avoid the associated undesirable image of femininity when purchasing male grooming product (Cole, 2008). As a result, there is an increasing social acceptance for male to consume cosmetics. However, the leading market research company such as Datamonitor (2005) revealed that the conventional masculine belief or value still exists. From above discussions, the following hypothesis is proposed: 4.6 Advertising The advertisement of cosmetic products has caught on like wildfire and celebrity endorsement has witnessed a big boom in the cosmetic industry. The modern man has become an important target audience of cosmetics advertising. The advent of media advertising for men’s cosmetics made men feel more comfortable with the idea of using beauty items. It is noted that the intended messages in an advertisement do not necessarily portray the traditional icon of men’s masculinity. “Young men are being sold images which rupture traditional icons of masculinity” (Mort, 1988). Millions are spent each year by advertising markets for celebrity endorsement of cosmetic products. A celebrity endorser is an individual who enjoys public recognition and who uses this recognition on behalf of a consumer good by appearing with it in an advertisement (marketing communication) (McCracken, 1989). The chief reasons behind such strategies are – 1) expensive cost margins, 2) huge potential customer groups, 3) coordination between multicultural boundaries. The use of celebrities in advertisements can have a positive influence on the credibility, message recall, memory and likeability of the advertisements and finally on purchase intentions (Menon et al., 2001). According to Beatty (1990), Petty et al., (1983 and Menon et al., employing the strategy of celebrity endorsement serves to generate a positive attitude as consumers tend to value products that are endorsed by celebrities than products that do not entail celebrity endorsement. The IEG Endorsement Insider gives us insight into the current scope of celebrity endorsement by stating that U.S. companies have spent $ 800 million on high profile personalities from the sports, entertainment and film field for advertisement of their products. More specifically, the use of popular celebrities who have positive imagery is considered to be an effective communication strategy in positively altering men’s attitude toward cosmetic consumption. According to Agrawal and Kamakura (1995) approximately 20% of all television commercials feature famous celebrities for endorsing different products which include cosmetics. Research has shown that celebrity endorsement influences the feelings of the consumers and can also influence the attitude consumers have towards the advertisement and their attraction towards the brands, which can increase the purchase intentions. As mentioned by Nizar and Mariam (2009) that having celebrity endorser for cosmetic products is a good strategy to reach the male target audience because such popular icons are able to convey a uniform image to the customers’ minds. Furthermore, metro-sexual celebrities are endorsed to offset the negative attribution associated with metro-sexuality. Successful ambassadors of grooming products such as David Beckham and Brad Pitt who possess rugged masculine and sport-man like looks, openly speak to the public that they use skincare products that have positively changed the attitude of formal male stereotype. (Cole, 2008) This signal conveyed by these famous celebrities has a significant influence on the attitude of modern males toward adopting cosmetic products. Advertisements using celebrity endorsements serve to influence the profitability of a firm by the costing, demand in their own market as well as demand in other markets because it reaches a wider audience. The Consumer Culture Theory (CCT) was initiated after twenty years of consumer research addressing different aspects such as the social culture, symbolic, experiential and ideological behaviour of consumers. The CCT attempts to explore the different heterogeneous groups based on their culture which makes it much easier for us to understand the wider socio-historic framework of globalization. ‘Consumer culture’ takes into consideration the images, objects and texts that are all interconnected and try to find their meanings and I did these through conflicting practices thereby making a collective sense of their environments and to orient their members' experiences and lives (Kozinets, 2001). The CC T enables individuals to get a better idea of marketplace ideology and specific behavior patterns of particular consumer groups based on their culture. CCT studies have shown that they play a significant role in consumers' negotiation of role and identity transitions (Bonsu and Belk, 2003; The last hypothesis is proposed: H5: men’s cosmetic advertisement is positively correlated with Thai men’s consumption of cosmetics. 4.7 Conclusion Modern society has benefited a lot from the tried and tested measures of the ancient times and present day man has become quite dependent on the cosmetic industry to say the least. With the markets being flooded with a great variety of cosmetic products many people have become addicted to its use and cannot do without cosmetics. Research carried out the cosmetic industry has helped to revolutionize the way we look at cosmetics today. The products that are highly innovative, serve the purpose of beautifying an individual as well as building up their confidence to a great level. Traditionally, the use of cosmetics with associated with femininity, but today this perspective has drastically changed as there is a great boom in the men’s cosmetic market which continues to escalate at the great speed due to the heavy demand for men’s products today. Men are paying increasing attention to their appearance and increasing men’s cosmetic product purchases. After studying the numerous quantities of existing literatures on men’s consumption behaviour on beauty products, the major potential factors, namely self-image, ageing, appearance consciousness, social belief, and advertising are identified and led to the formulation of hypotheses and the conceptual framework which will be analyzed and tested subsequently by the proposed methodology in the next section. The conceptual framework drawn from the review of literatures is presented in figure 1. 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