The Developing of European and Italian Costume In the late Middle Ages - Research Paper Example

Abstract The Middle Ages of European history happens to be the era spanning over about a millennium – the date being 5th century to 16th century. During this time there were several changes in various aspects of life. This paper deals with the dressing aspect. It discusses the costumes of the rich. Apart from that it presents a discussion about the technological changes that took place and which affected the dressing and clothes material. It also talks about the way the people showed off their wealth by means of different means. Table of Contents Page no. 1. Historical Context…………………………………………………………………………3 2. The Impact of Technology on European and Italian Costumes worn by the wealthy…….5 3. Various other avenues through which the noble exhibited their wealth and opulence…………………………………………………………………………………...8 a. Living style b. Clothing c. Wealth and furniture d. Christmas and the Middle Ages e. Travel in the Middle Ages f. The hunting grounds g. Recreation h. The Middle Age and education 4. Conclusion……………………………………………………………………………….16 Many books and articles have been written about Europe during the Middle Ages. Researchers have, in many instances, chosen to focus on one or, at the most, two particular aspects of that era; either politics and the structure of government or culture and the way of life. Culture enthusiasts are mostly interested in bringing the code of fashion followed at the time to the forefront with the objective to create a comparison between today’s world and that of the 5th century through to the 16th century and, in certain cases, provide a window to their audience of how fashion has progressed and evolved through the ages. Through their study, they have established a link between fashion and the wealthy and how clearly they distinguished themselves from the masses in terms of clothing and accessories as the changes in trends were mostly for the rich and the affluent to observe and follow. While many authors and researchers have devoted their time and energy into the analysis and examination of the different facets of the Middle Ages, yet it is known to very few people how much of an integral part technology has played in shaping the ‘fashionistas’ of that period such that they were able to exhibit and portray their prosperity with a lot of flair and finesse. Thus, the objective of this paper is to put emphasis on the role that technology has played in changing and developing the fashion industry for the rich and the various methods through which the elite could demonstrate their affluence. I shall start with a description in detail of the various kinds of clothing and costumes worn during the Middle Ages providing a clear difference between the fashion pursued by the wealthy and the fairly ordinary attire worn by the regular masses. I shall then move on to the use of different technological tools and methods through which the materials or cloth were embroidered with a professional touch and refined to the highest degree. Finally I shall outline how the aristocrats displayed their fortune through education, travel and other means. Historical context As mentioned before in this paper, the wealthy clearly had the upper hand as compared to the lower classes when it came to enjoying the finer things in life and this was made most evident through their various costumes and accessories. When it came to the display of one’s wealth and fortune, men and women differed in their styles of clothing, which changed for each throughout the course of the Middle Ages. Initially, medieval clothing used to incorporate loose fitting garments for men, mostly flowing down to the feet. As time passed, men began to wear hose, which are quite similar to what we now know as stockings, and jackets which were mostly pleated. Other forms of attire involved wearing a tunic with a ‘surcoat’, which was a long coat worn as an outer garment. Brighter colors were reserved for nobility only as the brighter an attire was, the more the display of wealth was possible. Early medieval clothing for women, regardless of their stature, was long, flowing, tunic-like gowns and headwear (Jeep 128). Here, it was the colors that distinguished a wealthy woman belonging to the noble class from an ordinary peasant woman. However, in the latter period of the Middle Ages, clothing for women began to include flowing gowns made from the highest quality of silk and rich, patterned and embroidered fabrics which were occasionally imported from Asia. Elaborate head covers also began to make an appearance; from headdresses that were shaped like hearts or butterflies to tall, cone shaped caps with long, flowing trailers. For both men and women belonging to the aristocratic class, it was imperative to wear attire made from extravagant and high quality fabrics such as damasks, velvet, satin and silk as these emphasized the opulence, riches and luxury that all noblemen and noblewomen wished to portray. Another way through which the elite exhibited their wealth was through the display of a variety of jewelry; the more decorated a person belonging to the noble class was, the more the display of wealth. Priceless gems, such as diamonds and pearls were the mark of affluence, thus men and women belonging to the wealthy class did not hesitate to put them on display whenever they got the chance. When it came to extravagant and lavish weddings, “‘Le Mercure Galant’ describing the marriage of Mdlle de Blois with the Prince de Conti at Versailles in 1680, says, her dress was ‘white, bordered with diamonds and pearls; and as it is the custom for brides to wear at the back of their heads a sort of small crown of flowers, which is called le chapeau, this princess had one made of five rows of pearls instead of flowers’” (James Robinson Planche 259). The flaunting of wealth through the adornment of jewels was not restricted to just women; men belonging to the elite class also embellished themselves with a variety of gems, albeit in a different manner. It is said that “the shoes of the wealthy were not only painted with various colors, but often sumptuously adorned with gold, silver and precious stones. The Emperor Heliogabalus had his shoes set with diamonds interspersed with other jewels” (James Robinson Planche 8). The Impact of Technology on European and Italian Costumes worn by the wealthy An important milestone here is that it was in cloth making that the first industrialization took place during the Middle Ages. Textile production was mostly conducted in households where the men performed the task of weaving whereas women prepared and spun the yarn for the loom. By the 12th century, vertical looms had been replaced by horizontal looms which the allowed the person to sit as he weaved. These were considered to be the earliest silk looms that had been developed initially by the Chinese and brought to Europe by traders. Also silk worms and the technique for the processing and unreeling of silk were obtained by the Byzantines in the 6th century. Thus this development laid the foundation for the production of silk - a pre-requisite to being categorized as part of the aristocracy – within Europe. The image shows the clothing of the people of the Middle Ages, as you can note the fur capes, the coats etcetera all depict how the people of that time dressed. Everything was elaborate and rich in taste and this was done to uphold a certain idea of opulence. However even then, the production of silk did not begin until the 11th or the 12th century. Silk was mostly imported from China and other parts of Asia. By the 13th century, the technique of ‘silk throwing’ was mastered in which water was used to power the complex machinery needed for the process. The Muslim conquer of Spain and Sicily and the development of the first spinning wheel by the 13th century resulted in widespread cotton manufacturing which was the start of the production of a large amount of refined fabrics and cloths for the wealthy. For other fabrics such as velvet and satin, better weaving techniques were introduced so that the cloths were made of high quality and thus enable the elite, merchant class to exude their stature as wealthy noblemen or women. This era also saw the development of the different kinds of tools used in the textile industry for the cutting of fabrics. Initially, shearing scissors that were used for the trimming of animals were inter-changeably used for the cutting of fabrics as well. However, this proved to be extremely tedious and cumbersome. By the advent of the 11th century, on return from the Crusades soldiers brought smaller scissors specially designed for the purpose of cutting cloths. This enabled much better quality garments to be constructed and designed. As brighter colors were meant to denote maximum wealth, therefore the use of dyes was an important aspect in the making of luxurious fabrics for the noble and elite class. A large amount of herbs had to be used as ingredients to make the perfect, rich brand of color. During that time, purple was the color meant exclusively for the wealthy, mainly because it was a closely guarded secret of the Byzantine Empire. Only one family in the entire empire knew how to make the dye therefore it was exported sparingly. By the 13th century, tailors began opening shops for their businesses in places like London, Munich and Paris. People belonging to the aristocratic class could now have their clothing custom made with all their requirements of specific designs and adornments taken care of. An additional item to the overall attire of that period was the advent of the button, which was brought to Europe from China after the Crusades in 1200 A.D. Silver, ivory and mother of pearl buttons were reserved for the wealthy; these were used on a much more regular basis once button holes were invented by the Renaissance. The development in technological methods in the textile industry also brought about new types of clothing, which were an improvement on their predecessors. A huge cloaked garment called the ‘houppelande’ was invented. It was a long, flowing garb with big, bell shaped sleeves and a long train. This was worn by both sexes during that time. However, it did modify to suit the men’s needs as time progressed; it came up to the thigh level with a belt fastened at the waist and it was meant to be worn with long, pointed leather shoes. Various other avenues through which the noble exhibited their wealth and opulence Living Style As there used to be a continuous threat of war in the period of the Middle Ages, the nobles could afford to construct great buildings, which were actually stone castles, in order to keep themselves and their families safe from any probable attacks. There was a building inside the castle and there only the noble lived with his family. This building was called the Keep. This part of the castle used to be extremely grand and very obviously displayed the wealth of the nobles. In this building there used to be a huge hall which was counted as an office, dining room and dance hall. On the upper floors were rooms for the noble, the family and certain scholars. Such rooms were more or less considered as sitting rooms and here the whole family met each night for playing and talking. Other parts of the castle included stables, a huge kitchen, and servants’ quarters. The castle used to have plenty of servants and they had the responsibility of all the work in the castle. There were also knights employed who had to defend the castle in case of any attacks. Clothing The assumption was that the richer people in the Middle Ages wore brighter colours, better materials and longer jackets. The wealthy displayed their wealth a lot through the clothes they wore and the accessories that went along with them. They had clothing usually of expensive materials such as silk, velvet and damask; the latter was a heavy type of cloth. In the linings and trimmings there used to be fur, another sign of wealth. However, with time the wealthy people greatly altered their dressing style. By the end of the Middle Ages the men were seen to be wearing hose and a jacket that had pleats. The other alternative used to be skirting or a tunic with a surcoat. During a certain period the men also wore long pointy shoes as these were considered to be in fashion. At times the shoes had such long points that the men used to have to tie them to be able to walk. The women displayed their wealth through the clothing such as linen and/or silk undergarments. Over these they wore a gown or surcoat. During winters too they could dress expensively; they had petticoats made from fur; which could be otter, cat or miniver. They had quite adaptable dresses as their fabrics could be reversed and they had removable sleeves on their dresses. The wealthy people had wardrobes full of fur trimmings and jewelry. Jewelry was another way through which the people of those times exhibited their wealth and status. They used to get the jewelry imported and it used to be quite lavish. As there had not yet been the invention of stone cutting, the stones that they wore wee always uncut. During the fourteenth century diamond had gained a lot of popularity among the rich. Later, there was the development of laws by nobles regarding the clothing that people wore, and this was done in order to distinguish the status of the people. For instance, not everyone was allowed to wear jewelry. By the end of the Middle Ages the view was that clothes are a status symbol. The laws that had come up prevented the poor and the peasants from wearing anything except the cheapest of clothes; in fact, they had to wear only a cheap cloth or blanket. This law, however, was not necessary considering that the peasants did not even have the money to buy extravagant clothes, and this was all they were able to afford. Wealth and Furniture The show of pomp did not suffice with what one could take to the outside world with him. For the people of the Middle Ages wealth had to touch every part of their life, no matter if it was their clothing or simply the furniture they used in their bedrooms. Although not much of the furniture is left as proof for all to see, the paintings that were created in that era depict a lot. Most of the art work normally illustrated daily routines, seasonal activities, various trades etcetera, so when it comes down to the furniture we have to look no further than the paintings. Furniture was a lot back complicated back in the Middle Ages; to start with, it was built using thick and heavy wood where the structures were put together in a “wood-on-wood joinery.” However, the expenditure is gauged not from the weight of the furniture or the wood used, but the intricacy of the designs that were carved out on them. These not only exhibit masterful craftsmanship but also exuberated the artistic flair that was gaining momentum during that era. Be it there own beds in their private bed rooms or the sofa in their parlor, everything had to show that the house belonged to someone great and someone worthy of a second look (Neuman 65) Christmas and the Middle Ages The celebration of Christmas seems like a grand affair to us all today, but compared to how the people of the Middle Ages celebrated it, we are no where near as grand in our celebrations as we could be. Twelve days were celebrated with sports, dancing, drinking, singing, gambling etcetera; it was a time where everything was done in an excess and the wealthy did not shy away from the overindulgence either. Instead of being a spiritual conquest this period remained, as it does to this day, a worldly affair. The priests of the Middle Ages tried to change that status but failed to do so each time. The royalty and nobility of the era were constantly trying to outdo one another, to see who could throw the largest extravaganzas and who could have the biggest parties. It was supposed to be all in the name of the lord but more often than not it was just to feed their own egos. It is important to note here that although the display of wealth and generosity account for much of the vanity of that time; it also had the purpose of strengthening political ties. The host became something of an idol in the eyes of all involved. The power one held was measured by the size of the celebration he threw. Many feudal bonds were forged over such parties (Diehl & Donnelly 18). Travel in the Middle Ages Travel was also one area that was tremendously affected by the upward changing trends of wealth. The idea was that when you pass by a place or go to visit someone people should stand and be awed by how great you are and since the nobles could not stop and show the people themselves, they let their horses speak for them. The finer the horses the better; the creatures were magnificent in their own rite with a large retinue and cavalcade behind them. This was done for two reasons, the first one is obviously to display their wealth but the second was more for comfort and easiness than anything else. Attendants had to be on the noble’s beck and call no matter how short journey was. Along with this a lot of wealth was spent getting the perfect chariots and carts. At times the rich also traveled in covered wagons, although this means was more common for the ladies (Singman 215). However, these are thought to be uncomfortable since there were not any suspensions and in those days the roads were also not smooth enough to allow for a comfortable journey. Another means of transport by the rich was on a box between two poles. There were two horses, each in front and the back, and they were responsible for carrying the poles. The horses were given special training such that they walked at a similar pace. One can only fathom the place that a single horse had in a noble’s life. Many a time’s one or more horses from a noble were given away to the church upon his demise. This was seen to be an excellent way to show respect to not only the departed but also to God. Other belongings were also donated but the travel animal was of utmost value (Emery 471) The hunting grounds There were many other activities that were labeled as something that only the noble or the aristocratic class had a right to enjoy or utilize. One of these activities was their method of recreation; the elite class’s perception of leisure mainly lied in hunting and falconry. More often than not, nobles kept a forest to themselves solely for this purpose and for this reason the common man was not allowed to hunt in the forest reserved for the elite. A proper hunting party including hunting dogs accompanied the nobles as they hunted for a variety of animals, such as wild boar and deer. Deer parks were owned and they mainly represented the status of the owners. The rich owning these parks hunted deer there (Platt 47). These deer parks used to be safely enclosed using a high earth bank and on top of that was a fence of oak stakes. The maintenance was done by serf labor. The location of the deer park was normally near to the Lord’s house. The parks also sometimes occupied some of the probably fertile for crops land. Much and obvious proof exists of the 1900 parks in England at different periods of the Middle Ages, and the view is that they were a normal characteristic of the landscape. Several of the deer parks were not only occasionally visited by their owners as most of the landowners and the rich people had quite a great number of parks. Recreation Other than deer hunting the nobles engaged in falconry. This was quite a popular sport and every castle had a falconer who had the responsibility of capturing, training and caring for the hawks, just like servants care for humans. A good hawk was considered to be as valuable as a good warhorse. It is known that the nobles even made pilgrimages for seeking the health of a hawk in case of it falling ill. They used hawks for hunting down herons, cranes, partridges and pheasants. The procedure of hunting was that the hawk perched upon the heavy leather glove of the hunter till it saw the prey. At that sight the hunter removed its hood and leg straps and the hawk hunted down the prey and brought it to the owner. The Middle Age and Education Education was another avenue through which the affluence of the noble class was made evident. Children belonging to noble families were often sent to nunneries to receive basic schooling. Nuns taught the children how to read and write and simultaneously ensured that they observed their prayers on a regular basis. Girls belonging to such families were required to hone their skills through needlework and spinning as well as acquire other domestic skills that would prepare them for marriage (Marshall Cavendish Corporation 247). The children belonging to the richer families had to learn rudimentary manners along with some reading, writing and dancing. They were normally taught by their parents, or employed teachers. By the age of 7 the boys were supposed to initiate their training to become a knight. For this purpose they had to go to another lord’s castle. In case of a weak or unhealthy boy, he was not destined to become a knight. Rather, he had to take up the occupation of scholar or a monk and went to the monastery to learn. Although girls were only required to learn the tasks that were required within the house, they also had to go to other castles and there they were educated in regard to the management of a household, caring for kids, weaving, sewing, playing instruments, dancing, singing and any other talents or skills that were considered necessary in a marriageable young lady. On many occasions, the child decided to become a scholar, which more often than not resulted in the child being ‘taken in’ by the monastery for the purpose of attaining superior knowledge. These children belonged to rich, wealthy families belonging to the aristocratic, elite class who were known for ‘giving away’ their children to monasteries for the sake of higher, spiritual learning. Conclusion A discussion has been presented of the various aspects of a typical noble belonging to the Middle Ages. The observation made from the above review was that the rich used to have quite a lot of free time and they had lots of recreation. The rich flaunted their wealth in every possible way. They would wear clothes made from expensive material, wear ornate ornaments, educate their children in a posh manner and overall live a luxurious life. Through the technological changes brought about with time there were changes in the way people, mainly the rich, dressed up. Their material of clothing, style and manners changed. Works Cited Diehl, Daniel, Mark Donnelly. Medieval celebrations: how to plan holidays, weddings, and reenactments with recipes, customs, costumes, decorations, songs, dances, and games. Stackpole Books, 2001 Emery, Anthony. Greater Medieval Houses of England and Wales, 1300-1500: Southern England. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2006. Jeep, John. Medieval Germany: an encyclopedia. Routledge, 2001. Marshall Cavendish Corporation. Exploring the Middle Ages. Marshall Cavendish, 2006. Newman, Paul. Daily life in the Middle Ages. McFarland, 2001. Planche, James Robinson. A Cyclopedia of Costume Vol. II A General History Of Costume In Europe. the University of Michigan, 1819. Platt, Colin. Medieval England: a social history and archaeology from the Conquest to 1600 A.D.. Routledge, 1994. Singman, Jeffrey. Daily life in medieval Europe. Greenwood Publishing Group, 1999. Read More