The History of Ties - Essay Example

?The History of Ties: How did ties become an essential element of modern business attire? In spite of the fact that loose ties became popular in Europe only in the beginning of the seventeenth century, one could argue that the birth of tie as a concept takes its roots a long way into the Chinese civilization. Looking at the historical occurrence of neck cloths, as an element of individual outfit, the same was found in China, dated 259-221 BC, when neck cloths were found in the tomb of Qin Shin Huang Di, China’s First Emperor. Another interesting historical fact is that the neck cloths were found on well-known terracotta soldiers in the mausoleum back in the year 1974. During the seventeenth century, the Croatian mercenaries who had fought and won the war over Turkey visited King Louis XIV in Paris, in order to celebrate their victory. Besides their smart uniforms, the soldiers wore bright scarves around their necks called cravats. King Louis was greatly impressed by their brightly colored silk scarves, that he soon adopted it for his own soldiers who called themselves as the “The Royal Cravattes” derived from the Croatian word “Kravate”. Its popularity spread, and it soon became a fashion accessory. This style broadened to England where Charles II showed a deep interest in Cravats which is popular even to this day. The revolution of neck cloths started in England in the beginning of the seventeenth century. At that time, neck ties became a fashionable element of men and women outfit, as being an attribute of shirts with broad linen collar with lace that required to be tied in order to keep the initial shape. Later on, the collar itself was replaced by a long piece of linen that laid foundation for modern neck tie. Appearance of separate pieces of linen made them more visible and started to attract creativity of designers in old England. At that point in time, expensive price for linen and lace itself made neck tie an essential symbol of social status. With time, neck ties started to become more diverse and were differentiated on price and the materials used. From the middle of the eighteenth century, Europe adapted the way of wearing cravat over the shirt collar, just like it is being done in the modern business world. The development of the modern neck ties started in the nineteenth century, when male fashion adapted a non-compromising black and white standard, and very strict requirements to tying cravat. Men could spoil several times before they actually make it right, while dressing. The same century introduced the fashion for the bow tie that became a standard dress code for official events. The combination of the fashion and growing demand for neck ties in general made sales approach in the industry as well as related sphere more speculative and the US magazines started to offer new models and styles in men’s clothing. At the end of the nineteenth century, Europe has gone through a neck tie revolution, bringing more choice and freedom in styles and way of use of neckwear. This was hugely determined by growing diversity in the models of shirts that brought attention back to the neck area and made it interesting for fashion designers to open up room for creativity in neckwear trends. Silk became the major fabric for neck ties and remains the same up till now. The evolution of ties from loose cravat, bow ties and other forms to modern concept of classic ties is impressive, and to some extent identifies the fashion in general. Looking through decade’s preferences among men towards ties, it is possible to define the face of fashion as well as personality types and communication styles of individuals that could also be derived from their choice of ties and the combination of colors. Re-design and de-colorization of ties in modern business environments could be considered as supportive evidences to the growing influence of language of colors that affect peoples’ relations, perception of reality and complexity of interpersonal relations. Some historians would expect ties to become something temporary and not long-lasting, though today we can evidence the transformation of ties as a symbolic attribute of fashion and personal tastes. In her book titled "The Face of Fashion", Jennifer Craik (1993) sheds light on the theory that it was the elite designers in addition to the opinion leaders who dictated the concepts of fashion that were either borrowed or shared between different subcultures and influenced by mass consumer behavior. Her book is a study of fashion and the role it plays in gender identity. Craik makes special mention of the neglected areas of men’s and women’s fashion in her book with special mention of how ties found their way into the modern society. According to the Neck Wear Association of America’s handbook of 1992 and the MR Magazine, every year tie sales in America amount to about 95 million ties, raking in about $ 1.4 billion. Stanley Lieberson (2000) in his enlightening book titled ‘A Matter of Taste: How Names, Fashions, and Culture Change’ sheds light on the use of names especially in the manufacturing business. According to Stanley Lieberson (2000) manufacturers do not have a vested interest in the choice of names because their interest lies in the product that is to be supplied than the name attached to it. In his opinion, tastes are not influenced by powerful commercial sources (Lieberson, 2000). His book ‘A Matter of Taste’ was the co-winner as the Best Book in the Sociology of Culture, Culture section (2001) and also of the Mirra Komarovsky Book Award, Eastern Sociological Society (2002). In this book, he sheds light on how first names are used to uncover orderly mechanisms that contribute towards changes in tastes and fashions over time. Further evolvement of the neck tie took place when a silversmith named Victor Cedarstaff patented the ‘Bolo Tie’ in the 1940s. According to Patrick McMurray, the Bolo tie was the replacement for bow-ties and neck ties. The Roadside America website defines the Bolo tie as a 4 feet long strip of leather or cord that is wrapped around the neck and placed under the collar. The ends are put together and clasped tightly with a buckle or medallion (Patrick McMurray, 2011). According to Patrick McMurray, the Bolo tie was accidentally created by Victor Cedarstaff, a silversmith, while on a horse riding trip with his friends in Arizona. It is said that he tied the hat’s headband around his neck so he wouldn’t lose his hat that had an expensive turquoise buckle (Patrick McMurray, 2011). His friends complimented him on his style and soon Victor made many such Bolo ties using innovative ideas such as beads and buckles. Some of the more prominent personalities that used the Bolo tie were President Jimmy Carter, Bruce Springsteen and many governors of the United States. The Arizona Bolo Tie Society was established at Wickenburg, quite near to the place where Victor Cedarstaff had created his first Bolo tie (Roadside America, 2010). The museum houses a rotation of about 250 historic Bolo ties in addition to the existing 32 Bolo ties (Roadside America, 2010). Cedarstaff had named it ‘Bolo’ due to its resemblance of lengths of rope made use of by the gauchos of Argentina to trap game or cattle. Almost 20 years before the introduction of the Bolo tie, an innovation by Jean Patou, a pioneer fashion designer used his innovative skills by designing ties made from women’s clothing material (Patrick McMurray, 2011). All his tie patterns stemmed from the art movements such as Cubism and Art deco that were prevalent during that time. During the 1960s, designer ties made an entry with designers from London 's Carnaby Street whose colorful creations involved flowered, abstract and psychedelic patterns on ties (Patrick McMurray, 2011). These innovative ties were forerunners to the Hippie Movement which was a major shift in youth culture, that took root in the 60s and soon they dispensed with ties altogether, and replaced them with colorful scarves around their necks or just wore medallions or chains on an open shirt (Patrick McMurray, 2011). Designer ties are now the norm of the day in our contemporary society with designers making a splash with their innovative and creative thoughts and ideas on tie manufacturing. Today, ties have become an indelible part of clothing where both males and females are concerned. Modern society looks upon ties as being a fashion statement that represents who they are because it gives them the identity they desire to have to stand out amongst the crowd. Tie industries around the globe are a huge success because of the heavy demand for this accessory of clothing. The raw materials used in the manufacture of neck ties are silk, polyester, wool, linen, nylon and rayon with most of the raw silk coming from China. Tie fabric weaving is looked upon more as an art form than just an industry. As American designer at Gucci, Tom Ford states – ‘Fashion today is no longer rigidly segmented by country’ (White N. & Griffiths I., 2000) and this attribute is clearly manifested due to the advancement of Science and technology today and the merging of borders. Designers like Dior have capitalized on the situation and have a franchised partnership with the US twill manufacturer Benjamin Theise for silk ties (White N. & Griffiths I. 2000, pg. 129). The world has become a global village because it is no more defined by boundaries. It is a multicultural organization that has opened its doors to modern innovation. Therefore, the humble ties of yesteryears have now been recognized as an indispensable part of a person’s wardrobe because it gives them not only individuality but an identity of their own. Ties have transformed from basic functional element to symbolic religious element, and finally set their roots in fashion as a symbol of good taste and elegant manners. Besides they are being recognized by gurus as a true fashion statement. They are seen as a tool of respect, dignity and grace which distinguishes them from their regular counterparts. Read More