Flappers: An Evolutionary Step towards Greater Womens Liberation - Essay Example

Section/# Flappers: An Evolutionary Step towards Greater Women’s Liberation It is unquestionable that the decade following The Great War was one of unimaginable social changes. The methodical and scientific destruction of humanity by both sides during the war lead many to question the very tenets of their faith in god and humanity. Several decades of rapid industrialization had left Europe and the United States experiencing the benefit of mass transit, electricity, production lines, mechanized industry, and an explosion of scientific knowledge. The Scopes trial further brought into question previously held notions regarding the unquestioned primacy that religious belief had held over the population for so many years. A new era of literature, art, and music was born (Burleigh, 2). The term the “Lost Generation” was coined to refer to the aimless spirits that lent their creative talents towards describing the human condition at the time. Women’s suffrage had been won, the sale and distribution of alcohol had been prohibited (in the United States) and a generation of restless and increasingly affluent young people crowded towards the city. It is upon this backdrop of societal change that a new breed of woman arose; known both disparagingly and complimentary as the flapper. As with any changes to the norms of society, the flappers were born out of the social upheaval that was experienced as a result of the Great War. With the constraints of the old system being broken, the flappers were able to evolve under a new set of rules; no longer encumbered by the rules and norms of post-Victorian society. Many have dismissed the flapper movement as merely a fashion trend; however, this is not the case (Stamp, 12). This essay will briefly analyze the causal factors which led to the rise of the flappers, their outlook on life, their clothing as a symbol of rebellion towards the norms of the time, their role within the larger rubric of the feminist movement, and their sexual liberation coupled with their refusal to accept the post-Victorian gender roles of the time (Morey, 22). This analysis will attempt to explain each of the fundamental factors behind the rise of the flappers during the roaring twenties. Additionally, attention will be paid to the achievements which they unwittingly won for women in the 21st century. Furthermore, it is the belief of this analysis that the flappers were able to make a powerful foray into women’s rights. Although perhaps not fully recognized at the time, this opening salvo accounted for a powerful first step which would later be built upon by feminists throughout the 21st century. Because the appearance of the flappers was so stark in comparison with the norms of the time, this analysis will start with the motives and consequences that this style had on women both during and after the flapper generation (Swinth, 3-4). Without having an outstanding knowledge of fashion and style, even a layperson can easily identify the flapper style. Furthermore, this same lay person might understand with even the most rudimentary knowledge of female norms of dress and behavior of that time that the flappers openly flaunted a type of androgyny. Shorter skirts, higher hemlines, accentuation of slim boyish figure and waste (without drawing attention to the hourglass figure as had the Victorian style) were all attributes of the flapper’s style of dress. Furthermore, the breasts were not accentuated; instead, they were oftentimes pressed against the chest or not bound at all (Freadman, 15). Although this is not shocking to our current generation, complete dismissal of the norms of Victorian style was doubtless considered most rebellious and distasteful at the outset (The World Almanac, 4). Shorter hair styles further encouraged comparison to men/boys. The French even referred to flappers as “garconnes” – the word used for boys with a feminine ending added (New York Times, 3). However, it was not the garments, the hairstyles, or the makeup alone that made the flappers unique – it was the attitude (Auletta, 26). In short, everything that the flappers represented, from their very clothing to the hairstyles and fashion they propagated was a clear break with the past and a rebellion against the norms of acceptability of that time. As a result of this rebellion and effrontery to the norms of the times, there was a clear and definite backlash towards the flappers. Like any new and rebellious style of clothing, the immediate effect was ridicule and distaste among the mores of society at the time; however, the flapper style of fashion began to catch on and Coco Chanel championed it further in her own fashion line by offering a slightly muted/toned down interpretation of the flapper’s style to women of all ages during the 1920’s (Kemper, 6). The effect at large was a probably unintended effect on the ongoing women’s liberation movement. The mores of Victorian fashion and society had hitherto had women draped in successive layers of clothing and painful corsets. The intent was to accentuate the female form and present an “ideal”; however, it was this very ideal that flappers held in such distain. By freeing women of the unnecessary fashion restrictions of the post-Victorian period, flappers, probably unwittingly, made a major step towards further women’s liberation. Although many have been dismissive of the style associated with the flappers, it fits hand-in-glove with the lifestyle they championed as the freedom of movement allowed them to pioneer and enjoy the dances of their generation. In the same vein, flappers were breaking with the norms of homebound life; seeking instead to be fully integrated into society and to enjoy the same leisure activities as men of the time enjoyed However, at the same time, elements of femininity were preserved as heavy makeup – specifically kohl was employed to darken the eyes and dark lipstick employed to accentuate the lips (Kriebl, 33). Likewise, the boyish/androgynous outfits gave them credence to exit the home and spend the late nights that they would in the speakeasies and night clubs – formerly a “men’s only” domain (Smitley, 7-8). In effect, as superficial as it might seem, the style of clothing that the flappers embraced, perhaps more than any other feature, helps best explain their world-view, what they desired to acquire for themselves, what they fought against, and what they represented. Secondly, what helped to differentiate the flappers from other groups at the time was their brazen lifestyle and disregard for societal norms that dictated what women could and could not do. These societal norms extended to nearly every imaginable activity to include: where women could and could not be seen, what defined a woman of ill-repute and what did not, what was appropriate clothing, and how a woman should behave. It was the flappers wanton disregard for these norms that eventually opened the way for women’s widespread entrance into the workforce, the ability and right to drive a vehicle, riding bicycles, engaging in sports alongside men, being seen in the company of other men without being labeled a woman of “ill repute”, socially drinking, smoking cigarettes, enjoying a vibrant nightlife (hitherto a men’s only outlet), and generally being seen and heard in the public sector (Theodoracopulos, 40). In effect, the flappers challenged almost every conventional norm of femininity that then existed. This liberation in terms of dress allowed for the secondary liberation in terms of attitude. Because the flappers were no longer fettered by the corsets and hoops that had defined many long years of the Victorian period, they felt themselves emancipated in both dress and action. Accordingly, women began to engage in activities and parts of society, specifically nightlife, in which hitherto it had been unheard of for a woman to engage (Yellis, 14). Previously rigid attitudes regarding sexuality were questioned by the flappers. Their lifestyle exhibited a clear break with prior conventions as they practiced premarital sex and the use of birth control; further empowering women to have a determination of their reproductive rights. However, to say that the flappers were loved and accepted in their time by people of all political persuasions and beliefs would be an epic over-exaggeration. Both sides of the political spectrum at the time had little if any use for what they likely saw as morally bankrupt behavior that the flappers appeared to exhibit. Likewise, many had contempt for the flappers because they believed the flappers disregarded what “true” feminists had sacrificed in the previous years. In fact, known suffragists of the time referred to flappers as “vapid” – denying that they had any relation or bearing to the movements they had for so long championed. A Times article of 1913 described the flappers as: “The social butterfly type… the frivolous, scantily-clad, jazzing flapper, irresponsible and undisciplined, to whom a dance, a new hat, or a man with a car, were of more importance than the fate of nations” (Times, 2). Dorothy Parker, a known writer and satirist of the times, characterized flappers equally unapologetically. Parker ridiculed the hedonistic and narrow-minded attitude of the flapper generation. Parker penned the following poem in 1922 entitled “Flapper”: The Playful flapper here we see, The fairest of the fair. She's not what Grandma used to be, You might say, au contraire. Her girlish ways make you stir, Her manners cause a scene. But there is no more harm in her Than in a submarine She nightly knocks for many a goal The usual dancing men. Her speed is great, but her control Is something else again. All spotlights focus on her pranks. All tongues her prowess herald. For which she well may render thanks To God and Scott Fitzgerald. Her golden rule is plain enough - Just get them young and treat them rough (Churchwell, 7). In this poem, Parker is casting aspersions onto the flapper movement. Obviously she considers it to be little more than a wayward fashion trend tied to a reprobate and hedonistic generation unworthy of any respect. Parker was not alone in her dismissal of the flappers; however, the effect that they had on the culture of the era and the future of the women’s rights movement remains undeniable. To disregard the flappers as another cultural fad is to disregard the achievements they won for women’s liberation. Though at times comical and though their evolution was characterized by rebellion against the norm instead of ascribing to some higher awareness, the flappers nonetheless made an indelible mark upon the course of women’s liberation. Notwithstanding the accusations that they were vapid and without any type of moral fiber or merit, the flappers achieved recognition of women in society that had hitherto not even been considered during Victorian times. By challenging the status quo the flappers were able to push the limits of modernity. By fighting back against the pre-conceived notions of what a woman could and could not do the flappers were able to make women a visible force in society. By force of will and popularizing new clothing and fashions that would more appropriately suited to an active lifestyle, the flappers were able to leave the home. By interpolating themselves into male dominated environments and by taking charge of their own sexual destiny, the flappers advanced the cause of women’s liberation in ways that their predecessors could have only dreamed. Sadly, the movement we know as the flappers did not survive the turmoil of the Great Depression. In fact, the austerity of the Great Depression can easily be seen as a total and complete antithesis of what the flappers stood for. During the 1930’s and the difficulties and privations which ensued, there was no longer a place for those seeking a carefree easy-come easy-go/hedonistic lifestyle. Additionally, once prohibition was ended, a great part of what made being a flapper so avant-garde and dangerous was removed. It is doubtless that without this danger factor, and the legalization of alcohol – the lifestyle began to lose a great deal of its glamour. Without this integral part of their party lifestyle, the flappers’ movement began to fade from society. 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