A Documentation of Fashion Trends during 1890s and 1900 - Research Paper Example

 A documentation of Fashion trends during 1890s and 1900 “The Gay Nineties” or la belle époque represent the diminishing impact of Victorian morality in the lives of trend-setting elite society. Despite their mature ages, The Prince of Wales, Edward and his wife, Princess Alexandra became fashion leaders with a lifestyle more vibrant and colorful than Queen Victoria had ever had. The most prominent trendsetters were affluent American women who married titled British heirs. One of the most illustrious international beauties was Consuelo Vanderbilt who experienced an unhappy marriage with the Duke of Marlborough (Cooper 79).Thorstein Velblen presented The theory of the Leisure Class, a social critique in which he coined the term “conspicuous consumption” in order to explain the Western culture’s tendency to exhibit family wealth through material objects, in particular, women clothing. Therefore, clothing became one of the major expressions of one’s wealth and status. This paper tries to briefly document the men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing fashion during 1890s and 1900 and the factors that influenced it. Socialites’ routine required them to put verity of clothes on during the day for different activities, hence resulting in extensive wardrobes. A very prominent example of this trend was the popularity of tea gown (e.g. Fig.1.) a garment that women wore only for receiving guests in the afternoon. A tea gown had a loose front, but it was still a decorative piece of garment. Other less ornate dresses like tea gowns were called wrappers were also in vogue for several years. However, tea gown brought a causal form of dressing to public sphere, though in a limited way (Cooper 79). Fig.1: Afternoon dress c. 1892 (The V&A) In 1890s, the most illustrious aspect of women’s fashion was the leg-of-mutton sleeves, which was at its peak during 1895.Day bodice usually had high collars, mostly with boning on the sides to lift them up (see Fig.2.3.). Moreover, lapels, yokes, and shoulder detailing attracted the gaze outward to the wide sleeves. Typically, bodices were slightly pointed at the front waistline. Trumpet-shaped skirts fitted perfectly over petticoats with the waistline delicately gathered at the centre back. For color, range of yellow and pale mauve shades were popular during the 1890s.Outerwear fashion trend was black waist-length capes usually trimmed in jet (Cooper 79). Fig. 2:1890s gown with leg o mutton sleeves (Augusta Auctions) Fig.3: Velvet evening gown with modified leg-o-mutton sleeves (The Metropolitan Museum of Art) During 1890s, women’s presence increased in workforce dramatically. They acquired positions as telephone operators, secretaries, nurses, in additional to traditional job positions, such as, dress making and millinery. The New Woman emerged as the archetype of the ambitious young working woman who not only enjoyed social freedom, but also shunned conventional ideas of femininity. She carried two-piece suit with a blouse. In the beginning, these tailor-made suits were custom made of wool by men’s tailors instead of dressmakers. Other option for work dress included skirts with ready-made shirtwaist (e.g. Fig.4.) a blouse made on the basis of a men’s shirt in order to allow more freedom of movement in comparison to the boned bodice (Cooper 79-80). Fig.4: Shirt waist c. 1890-1899 (FIDM Museum and Galleries) Increased participation in active sports, in particular, bicycling led to the emergence of the avant-garde bicycle suit. On the basis of tailor-made suits, avant-grade suits had fitted jackets and early form of trousers that gained acceptance. These trousers were knee-length, though skirts hide these trousers. Moreover, a straw boater, a hat with a slightly wide brim and flat crown was worn to complete the look with bicycle suit and with daywear for work (Cooper 80). During the 1890s and early 1900s, the influence of art nouveau was prevalent in every walk of life, and fashion was no exception. It serves as a bridge between conventional nineteenth and twentieth century art and style. In 1900, the Paris Exhibition where this decorative style was prominent also showcased couture fashion of Charles Frederick Worth’s sons (e.g. Fig.5.) Doucdet, Paquin, Callot Soeurs, and Redfern (Cooper 80). Fig.5: C.F. Worth evening gown (The V&A) Children Wear Research evidence suggests that readymade children garments are available since 17th century; however, it was not until the manufacturing age (era of mass production) that children’s readymade garments were made available for all social classes. Tailors and “little dress makers” used to visit affluent middle class for taking measurements and making dresses that fit every child. At the end of the century, trend for loosely fitted dresses and less tailored suits became common-letting one size fits all industry flourish. By 1890, the age of breeching for boys decreased from five years to three years. This term refers to the age when boys shifted from dresses to knickers. In this period, boys clothing was hugely inspired by military dressing. Common trends for both girls and boys included sailor suits, middies (see. Fig.5.) and the reefer coat (e.g.fig.7.). The later referred to a coat that had wide sailor collar and nautical braid. The brownie suit which is now called overalls was all the rage for play and leisure activities. In addition, variety of knit-wear also became popular for boys, such as; sweaters with high necks (turtle neck of today) pull over sweaters (e.g.fig.8) and button up sweaters (cardigans) (Jarrett). Fig.6: Boy’s middies c. 1900 Fig.7: Reefer Coat c.1900 (Wisconsin Historical Society) (Wisconsin Historical Society) Fig.8: Boy’s pull-over sweater c.1900 Fig.9: Portrait of children c. 1890-1900 (Wisconsin Historical Society) Before the age of three, both boys and girls wore high waist dresses usually decorated with lace and ribbons. After four years of age, girls wore the silhouette with large leg-o-mutton sleeves in the early years of decade and deflated by the end of it. Moreover, waistlines often ended at the natural waistline or just below that. For girls’ dresses, nautical themes were a widespread trend and incorporated sailors dress, with sailor collars, and with decorative braid. For semi formal occasions and Sundays, white crisp dresses were extremely popular (Jarrett).Trousers were also popular among girls, they chose either Turkish trousers (known as rationals in England, e.g. fig.10.) or wide legged trousers that gathers into a cuff at knee. Such trousers were worn for sports activities (cycling, tennis, and gymnastic) and leisure activities. Fig.10: Turkish trousers c. 1890s Men’s wear Men used to wear morning coat in the morning, however, it must transform into a frock-coat in the afternoon. For cycling and leisure activities, a blazer or a Norfolk jacket (e.g.fig.11.) was worn with a high stiff collar and a waistcoat. For evening at home, men wore quilted velvet smoking jacket, usually in dark colors and heavily braided around the sleeves and pocket. When it comes to ties, the only options were bow ties or “Ascot Puffs” (e.g. Fig.12.) usually for young men and a string tie for elderly men. Moreover, knickerbockers, stockings, an Inverness cape and mackintoshes were all the rage in that period. Hair was worn quite short and moustaches were full and either dropping or sharply turned up in accordance with the style of the German Kaiser (Oxenford 276). Fig.11: Norfolk jackets (Raivio) Mutton-chop whiskers or side-whiskers were used by older men. Moreover, pointed Vandyke beards represents that a character is either a doctor or an artist. During summers, a straw hat with narrow brim was worn. In this hat, a cord is looped over the crown and then attached to the coat lapel. For expressing their individuality, men used Tam-o’-Shanters, chest protectors, and buttonholes of carnations or rosebuds. By the 1900s, a dinner jacket became popular as evening dress for stage parties. For formal parties, they used black broadcloth tails, white vest, white tie, and buttonhole. They wore hair with side part and brushed over forehead and a small pointed moustache was waxed. Professional and elderly men wore beards (Oxenford 277). Fig.11: Boating suit Fig.12: Ascot Tie V&A Museum V&A Museum Fig.13: Women and men in complete leisurely attire V&A Museum Works Cited Cooper, Cynthia. “The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910.” The Fashion Reader: 2nd ed. Ed. Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun. New York: Berg publishers, 2011.69-83.Print. Oxenford, Lyn. Playing period plays. U.K:J. Garnet Miller Limited, 1957.Print. Baker, O. Georgia. Costume Drawings: A Guide to Drawing the period figure. Burlington: Elseviver, 2000.Print. Jarrett, Susan. Fashion and Dresses. maggiemayfashions,January.2013.Web.20 October 2013. Raivio,Ville. @The history of the Norfolk Jacket.@photograph. Web.Norfolk_jacket_history_at_Keikari_dot_com03. 11 March 2013.Web.20 October 2013. Read More