Polish Costumes - Assignment Example

January 7, 2007 Polish Costumes Poland is a nation with a rich and diverse tradition engraved by the influences of both east and west. From these diverse folklore emerged numerous regions, each with its unique traditions, dances, songs and costumes. Currently, Poland has sixty folkloric regions having its own set of costumes. Different Polish costumes have been highly regarded for their distinctive appeal and characteristics. It should be noted that each of the clothing wore by the different regions of the country has huge implication on the culture of the region where it is used as it becomes an important indication of some demographic factors such as social class and importance. This paper will look at the different Polish costumes which emerged in different regions of the country. The first part will look at most popular Polish costume, the Krakow costume which became the representation of Polish traditional dress in the world. As Poland is generally subdivided in two regions namely, Eastern and Western Krakowians, this paper will also explore the similarities and differences of the costumes wore in these geographic areas. The Krakow Costume Each country is often identified with its own national costume, which is also true with Poland. Among the regions, the strj krakowski (Krakw costume) is the favourite among the various regional costumes of Poland and has come to symbolize the traditional costume of Poland in general, especially abroad. From the time of their late nineteenth and early twentieth century boom, the Krakow costumes have gained wide popularity and acceptance among the Polish. With this, the Krakow costumes have been commonly worn among all the levels of social strata. They were described by folklorists, portrayed in paintings, prints and photographs. In the Krakow costumes, the women wear white shirts with broad sleeves and collars decorated with lace and paired with colorful vests with sequins and rich embroidery. Women's necks are adorned with strings of coral beads. The Krakow costume is also recognized with its flowery skirts in bold patterns which partly covered with white lace aprons plus multiple petticoats underneath. Girls wear wreaths of flowers with multi-colored ribbons in their braided hair while matured women prefer colorful, flowery kerchiefs. Matching these colorful costumes are high-laced red boots have heels with metal tips to emphasize each stamp, click, or jump. On the other hand, the men wear long, dark and embroidered coats over white shirts and embroidered vests. These are complemented with striped pants which are often in red and white in color and are tucked in high-laced boots. Their characteristic accessories include a special belt with decorative strings of small, jingling metal plates, as well as a square hat, topped with peacock feathers. The Krakow costumes, worn by both men and women, can be seen to be lavishly ornamented. The effect of multicolored skirts, together with the elaborate designs of vests, and exquisite embroidery, can be compared to the extravagant colorfulness of the peacock. As time progresses, the basic form of the Krakow costumes have been modified to take into account the different traditions and culture which emerged. During the peak of their development, the Krakow costumes can be widely grouped into two variations-the Western and Eastern Krakowians. Western Krakowians is the region from the rural farmland and industrial areas of the western part of the genre's range while the Eastern Krakowians is the area from the farmlands to the eastern part. Even though the boundary between the two could not be clearly determined, it is said to run approximately along a line marked out by the villages of Jdrzew, Miechw, Proszowice, Koszyce, and further out, between Bochnia and Brzesko. It is very crucial to identify the various differences between the two costumes as they often tell the village or region that a person came from. Costumes of the Western Krakowians The costumes from villages on the left bank of the Wisla River are the most exquisite costumes that existed in the wealthy villages of the north, and north-east suburbs of nineteenth century Krakw, such as Mogila, Pleszw, Bieczyce, Branice, and Bronowice. Being more economically advanced than the other region, the Western Krakowian costume is seen to be more elaborate and heavily adorned. The white sukmana with crimson or black silk chwasty (tassels) has become the distinct costume of a man. In other occasions, the men also wore navy blue kaftany. The tassel is commonly reffered to as the chrzanwka overcoats, and is popular in the whole area inhabited by the Western Krakwians. Being industrialized, such sukmana overcoats are mass-produced by the sukmaniarze tailors from Chezanw. These two were decorated with chwasty (tassels) as well as with mother of pearl or metal buttons. Shirts, which are sometimes decorated with white embroidery are fastened with a coral bead bakfon buckle, or tied at the neck with a red ribbon. Trousers, worn inside boots, are sewn from line with vertical red or blue stripes, or from usually navy blue or blue wool cloth. A leather belt was worn under the sukmana overcoats, but not over the kaftan. A wide trzos belt is worn quite frequently and serves as a hidden compartment for keeping money and important documents. The most popular headgear was the rimmed cylinder hat. However, towards the end of the nineteenth century, it began to disappear and is replaced by a low, felt-hat. Wool Hungraian style magierka caps were also commonly worn. During summer, straw hats gain more preference. On very special and festive occasions, the red rogatywka the square cap with peacock feathers is donned only with the representative costume. For example, it is usually worn by the bridegrooms or the groom himself during weddings. A red square shawl attached to the kaftan was also a part of the bridegroom's ensemble. In women, the most impressive part of the outfit is the bodice. In the village to the north-east of Krakw, women wear bodices which are often made of wool or velvet. They are fastened with hooks, and pleated on the lower back. The more elegant ones, which are often part of wedding ensemble, are sewn from brocade or silk damask. Such bodices were adorned with silver or golden haberdasher ribbons, single-colored tassels, decorative buttons, sequins and beads. The wool, navy, blue, bodices culminate at the waist with numerous overlapping kaletka tabs. These are decorated with mother of pearl buttons and crimson string or with metal buttons and tassels. Shirts are sewn from factories with white linen and decorated with white embroidery. Towards the end of the nineteenth century, the old round ruffled shirts, have been replaced by collarless shirts which are embroidered at the neck and cuffs and collared shirts. Wide, ankle-length skirts are sewn from a wide range of materials from linen, to calico printed in fine floral pattern, to paisley Tibetan cloth, to satin, smooth wool and silk damask. The most popular were Tibetan cloth skirts, printed with carmine roes motifs. The white line underskirt was finished off with lace, or with embroidered notches. Part of the women's outfit is an apron which is made from various materials most often from Tibetan cloth, white linen or tulle. Linen and tulle aprons were decorated with white embroidery. In order to maintain modesty, married women cover their heads with square shawls decoratively tied into bonnets. The red or white calico patterned shawls worn day to day, are on holidays replaced with white, line or tulle, with subtle white embroidery. Large square shoulder throws and shawls are commonly worn to complement the other top garments. On colder days women would also don kaftnik or karanka jackets, or navy blue upan overcoats. Festive footwear take the shape of tall, black, and rumpled boots, adorned with quilting, and sometimes with red saffian leather. With time, they are replaced with black, laced boots. More affluent housewives also wore leather purses, suspended on straps underneath the aprons. The costumes worn by women and men are beautifully accentuated by jewelers. Both men and women wear rings and necklaces. Women's rings and shirt clasps are decorated with coral and carbuncles while men's rings are almost exclusively coral. Square Greek crosses, set with five corals which hung on chains of natural corals the favorite adornment of Krakw women. Costumes of the Eastern Krakowians The costumes of the Eastern Krakwians have many common features with those worn by the Western Krakwians. In the villages on the left bank of the Wisla River, the man wears kierezja type of sukmana with a suka collar falling down their back. Kierezja overcoats, most often russet, but are also navy blue, grey, or white, differed mostly in collar adornment. They are usually embroidered in wool or silk, and embellished with sequins or with sections of red wool cloths. More common are pltnianki line coats which are sometimes decorated with modest embroidery or colourful wool cloth quiliting. Trousers, boots, belts and headgear are similar to those worn by the Western Krakwians. Meanwhile, female attire is greatly varied. Bodices, whether lace up, or fastened with buttons, are sewn from various materials most often from wool or satin. Navy blue bodices which are accentuated with mother of pearl or metal buttons and crimson tassels are also common. The shirts of nineteen century women are embroidered with crimson or black thread. Skirts and aprons are made from smooth wool, linen and printed calico, and also from patterned Tibetan cloth. In the nineteen century girls and married women alike, wear around their shoulders, rectangular, linen shawls (ratuch) which are later replaced by square shoulder throws. The festive headgear of married women consists of a white embroidered linen bonnet shawl. Bonnets which arranged from patterned calico shawls, and smaller colorful wool shawls tied in the back are also worn. Black, knee-high or laced boots completed the costume. The jewelries of the Eastern Krakwians are by far more modest then that form the Krakw suburbs. Around their necks, the more affluent women wear multiple strains of natural coral. The poorer one has to make due with artificial coral beads, glass or multi colored dctki beads. The costumes from villages on the right bank of the Wisla river are most commonly associated with region come from around Zaborw in the Brzesko Poviat, and from villages located in Powile Dbrowskie. Men wear kierezja, sewn from russet wool cloth. In Powile, the more affluent farmers own russet opierzanka over coats with characteristic fluffy collars. Striped trousers, linen or wool are worn inside tall, black boots. Smycka a characteristic, long and narrow belt, studded with flat metal buttons is donned over the kierezja. The rogatywka square cap, usually crimson and lower than that from around Krakw, is adorned by bridegrooms with a fan of peacock feathers and bunches of artificial flowers. In the vicinity of Zalpie, in Powile Dbrowskie, bodices of women's clothing are made of blue and red wool, and flowery Tibetan cloth which beaded and sometimes quilted with black velvet. Female katanas are similarly decorated. Skirts are sewn from white linen, patterned calico, Tibetan cloth or smooth wool. The linen ones are trimmed with a band of white perforated embroidery. They are most often worn with aprons sawn from red wool, trimmed with a band of white or colorful embroidery. There are also linen aprons embroidered with white open-work, or with either red and black or red and blue satin embroidery. The bonnet shawls are embroidered with white or red thread. As discussed above, the most basic difference between the Western and Easter Krakowians can be seen in the types of men's overcoats. The white sukmana overcoat with a stand-up collar is characteristic of the Western Krakowians. The Eastern Krakowians favor the kierezja or karazja overcoats - most often russet, with large collars falling down the neck. Smaller difference, showing up in details such as the cut, the adornment, the way of tying shawls, etc., can even be found between the attires worn in closely neighboring parishes. In a single area, costumes will have been worn in different arrangements, with older traditional elements interspersed with more recent additions. Festive costumes, especially wedding attires, are distinguished by characteristic features. Read More