The History of Weaving - Coursework Example

THE HISTORY OF WEAVE In this study, the issue of the history of weaving was comprehensively investigated and a comparison of the early woven fabrics with modern day woven textiles was done. The history of weave was the major concern of this study and was therefore done to the contention of the researcher. To carry out this study, the researcher consulted theoretical and historical sources of data and was able to conclude that there is evidence of the history of weaving from the pre-historic time to modern times. In his study therefore, the researcher presents the findings in four main chapters. Chapter one gives a discourse on the background to the study, Statement of research problem, Objectives and significance of the study and the Hypothesis. Chapter two presents a Review of the literature while chapters three present Research methods. Finally, chapter four gives a Discussion and conclusion of the study. Table of Contents Title Page...1 Abstract ............................................2 Table of Contents.3 CHAPTER ONE ................................5 1.0. Introduction .......................................5 1.1. Background to the study......5 1.2. Statement of research Problem..7 1.3. Objectives and significance of the study...8 1.4. Hypothesis ....9 CHAPTER TWO.10 2.0. Introduction......................................................................10 2.1. Research done on the history of weaving .10 2.2. Evidence of modern day weaving...14 CHAPTER THREE.17 3.0. Introduction .17 3.1. Area of study...17 3.2. Target population17 3.3. Sampling procedure...17 3.4. Instrumentation...18 3.5. Data collection method.................................................................................18 3.6. Ethical issues .........19 3.7. Reliability and validity of the study ..20 3.8. Data analysis ..20 3.9. Variables..21 CHAPTER FOUR...22 4.0. Introduction..22 4.1. Discussion and Conclusion...22 References..25 Appendix..26 CHAPTER ONE 1.0. Introduction Definition of the word weave can take various meanings depending on the context. But for the purpose of this study, it will be taken as an art of making something especially fabric simply by passing threads or strips crosswise over and under lengthwise ones, by hand or on a certain implement. Weaving is sometimes alternated with knitting to refer to the same thing. In life, weaving could refer to the struggles involved in making ends meet. In the threads of life, (Barber, 1991) argues that weaving has been made to become an occupation particularly in the garment industry or and the carpet industry. In more technical terms, weaving is the coordinated intertwining of more than two sets of ingredients usually perpendicular to each other to form a sensible structure. Materials used could range from roots and tree barks to animal fur and synthetic yarn (Wheat and Mera, 1984). This chapter presents the background to the study, statement of research problem, objectives and significance of the study. Finally, the chapter presents the hypothesis of the study. 1.1. Background to the study This is a historical study investigating an important aspect of the textile industry. The study sets out to have an in-depth analysis of the history of weaving. Unfortunately, it is not clearly known where or when the weaving process as an art really began, but with the earliest discoveries of artifacts of cultured life, it is believed that weaving was a part of this developing civilisation. It has been established that archeologists the world over hold a general belief that the first cases of crafting practised by pre-historic man was probably that of basket making and weaving (Barber, 1991). But any evidence to support this supposition is lacking simply because of the unprocurable nature of the discovered artifacts as well as lack of detailed documented information about the beginning stages of weaving. It has also been very difficult and challenging to trace the development history of textiles (Barber, 1991). Available remnants of fabrics miraculously discovered by archeologists from sealed tombs and other few areas spared from ravages of nature remains the only tangible evidence of existence of weaving in the early days ( as cited in Barber, 1991). Accordingly, any written information about primitive weaving is purely based on speculation. Barber (1991) maintains that the technique of weaving has been passed on over time with enormous expansion to date. This re-invention of better weaving techniques has seen the emergence of decorated woven objects such as baskets, textiles and expensive rugs just to mention a few. These objects like the basket were simply used for storage and transportation of goods in those early days (Barber, 1991). Due to the necessity for basic needs, our prehistoric ancestors had to practice weaving to cater for their daily life requirements. Historical evidence supposes that early man could have been encouraged to create objects using fiber as a medium by probably observing spider webs and birds' nests (Barber, 1991). Consequently, it is believed that these findings probably led to the discovery of weaving and hence resulted in netting which in turn assisted humans in catching fish and trapping game (Wheat and Mera, 1984). (Barber, 1991) further argues that by using weaving techniques, it is likely that primitive people learned to make mats to cover floors of their huts and hence helped insulate against dampness or cold. Eventually, people started using weaving skills to make exterior coverings for shelters, so they would be somewhat protected from harsh weather and from predators (Barber, 1991). The discovery of ways of creating woven structures by these primitive people opened endless possibilities in weaving industry. Accordingly, manufacture of woven articles such as coverings for huts, containers for goods, rugs, blankets and body coverings more than tripled, as sustained by (Wheat and Mera, 1984). Finally, there has been unchallenged evidence of an unrestrained desire by humans to beautify the objects created through the art of weaving. This desire is deep rooted in our ancestors' quest for survival (Barber, 1991). Moreover, the use of natural dyes on reeds by early man attests to this desire by humans to express their artistic sensibility on these objects. 1.2. Statement of research Problem The researcher set out to have an in-depth investigation of the history of weaving. The topic is very wide presenting very meager documented information on the origin and development of weaving. The study attempts to investigate how woven fabrics as an industry was presented in the past and how the same compares with contemporary woven textiles. The researcher will be therefore required to carry out a historical study using library sources and consultative measures as laid in (Bell, 1993). 1.3. Objectives and significance of the study The main objectives and aims of this study include the investigation of the origin of the weave and how it developed over time and finally my personal interpretation of the results. An in-depth review of related literature to the topic is also part of the objectives. The said concerns are proposed to be achieved through the gathering of researches that have been conducted by different academic groups and authors. Also, comparing results and methods that had been applied by others in the past go a great way in cutting costs. Through the said procedures the areas that are covered and studied will be generally viewed. In turn then, the main output of the research conducted will be the presentation of the view on the said issue at a glance. The review of the published papers in this area can be considered to present an access that can introduce the data in the said field of discipline. The results of this study on the other hand have far-reaching effects particularly to all players in the textiles industry. Foremost, given the magnitude with which the textiles industry has taken the global market, efforts to revitalise the industry are most welcome. In the area of modernising operations in the textiles industry becomes the foremost aspect of attention after the recommendations forwarded in this study. Secondly, the recommendations of this study if put into practice will help in conducting future research geared towards taking the textiles industry to greater heights. 1.4. Hypothesis Since this study is investigating the history of weaving, it will therefore be imperative for the researcher to come up with valid testable hypothesis. This is because the textiles industry has taken the global market by storm. Thus, using well constructed questionnaires or written surveys, the following two hypotheses were tested: that early development of weaving has positively contributed to the current growth of woven textiles and that the ideas used in pre-historic weaving have been maintained over time. CHAPTER TWO Review of the literature 2.0. Introduction Human beings are known to naturally have a strong compulsion to be creative and very inventive. Available research findings indicate that this trait existed in our ancestors' lives many thousands of years ago. According to (Barber, 1991), cultures the world over invented crude implements and methods of making woven nettings used in catching fish and trapping game. More research findings further indicate that there were great similarities found in most implements constructed and almost in all the weavings produced (Wheat and Mera, 1984). 2.1. Research done on the history of weaving Weaving has been a very humbling and comforting thought most probably originating from nature. It has been a common belief that the pre-historic man learned to weave from the mythological spider woman well known for spinning the web (Barber, 1991). This is nature's idea of teaching early to learn how to survive. For this reason therefore, it can be maintained that weaving has served as a powerful symbol for life in the art, literature, and mythology of many cultures. Unfortunately, numerous research findings have attempted to unravel the mystery behind the history of weaving with regrettably little success (as cited in Barber, 1991). This is probably because of the fact that there has been very little tangible evidence to this effect. But all in all, there is some dependable evidence availed through research indicating that weaving has a long history. In her research, Barber (1991) concludes that through carbon dating using isotope 14 and the DNA testing, it is now possible to assign accurate dates to archeological findings. To this effect for instance, evidence of cloth having been made as far back as 7000 to 8000 BC has been adduced (Wheat and Mera, 1984). Despite the fact that fabric remains are not very easy to come by, crafty historians have decided to use artifacts such as pottery with weave imprints to piece together our textile heritage. In her study of the Egyptian history, Barber (1991) further indicates that a simple plain-weave pattern cloth made of linen was found in the region's sealed tombs. Moreover, the same authour argues that weaving was an early craft amongst the ancient Hebrews. She maintains that wool was highly regarded than any other fiber. This argument is strongly supported by the bible (Deuteronomy 22:11, as cited in Wheat and Mera, 1984). Research undertaken by Barber (1991) exploring the history of weaving by the Babylonians found out that there is extremely rich evidence of a flourishing weaving industry of quality textiles in this region. Other documented evidences elsewhere indicate that archeologists discovered woven linen scraps dating back to about 5000 BC, a strong indication that there was advanced knowledge of weaving at this period in time (Wheat and Mera, 1984). Moreover, artifacts showing examples of early Peruvian textiles and weaving tools have also been discovered in burial sites according to the same study. A good example of such artifacts includes the highly valued piece of pottery found in Egypt with an imprint of a textile structure engraved in its exterior (Barber, 1991). With the advent of the agrarian period, it is believed that most early weavers started replacing the use of wool with cotton in their weaving. This was because the growing of cotton made it more economical to weave using cotton than using wool. Cotton made longer threads than wool. This is evidenced in Spanish documents describing the Southwest in the early 18th century as having used cotton in weaving blankets as an important trade item to the Plains Indian people (as cited in Wheat and Mera, 1984). In fact, a singular species of blanket, which is of so close and dense a texture that it will effectively hold water almost equal to gum-elastic cloth, is praised as a single item of weaving in the early times. For this reason, the blanket is therefore highly prized for its protection against the rains. Some of the finer qualities are often sold amongst well to do consumers as high as fifty or sixty dollars globally (Wheat and Mera, 1984). Historic photographs illustrate that the desirability of blankets increased with the coming of the 19th century and were thus traded to great distances as evidenced by their appearance in almost all corners of the globe. Closer and more observations have revealed that blankets in today's textiles have attempted to preserve their originality from early weavings thus attracting more trading interest globally. Further, the development of the agrarian system saw pre-historic people change their cultures dramatically, even including their weaving practice. Most of them lost their flocks due to the fact that the grazing fields were taken up agricultural activities especially farming to grow cotton. Also changes in weather patterns led to lack of enough water for their flocks and as such, cotton twine, commercially-manufactured yarns as well as cloth and blankets started becoming overly popular than woolen hand woven ones. These developments lessened the pre-historic people's reliance on their own loom products, as Barber (1991) concludes. Actually, the combination of widespread availability of yarns and cloth and the influence of the recent times designs were probably a direct inspiration in the dramatic shift in weaving. This shift was basically from the stripes of the Classic period to the diamond style of the Transitional period of our times. But remnants of the early period fabrics are still evident today with cultural die-hards still hanging on firmly. This is testimony to the flexibility of most cultures and the fact that a period of captivity could lead to a vigorous period of change and continuity in any activity such as weaving, as demonstrated by Barber (1991). Research has also associated the success of the development of weaving with China due to earliest discovery of silk fiber there. It is believed that with the discovery of the silk fiber, China was and is still capable of acquiring superb thread without even going through the spinning process (Wheat and Mera, 1984). To date, China is highly revered in her technique of cultivating silk fiber as well as in her trade in exquisite silk products in the global market (as cited in Wheat and Mera, 1984). In the same vein, the development of the implement used for weaving fiber into fabric is a clear testimony of the existence of the art of weaving. It is historically documented that this weaving implement evolved from the early primitive warp-weighted loom through several stages to the modern computer-driven mills in contemporary times. This in true sense mapped out the development of the art of weaving from crude primitive forms to the sophisticated intricacies of today (Wheat and Mera, 1984). 2.2. Evidence of modern day weaving In the present day weaving, the availability of the Oriental rugs in the global market implies that the art of weaving has taken a long route. These Oriental rugs are usually hand knotted carpets found only in Asia but have become very popular with other exporters joining Asia in the global market. In the woven textiles industry the world over, the Persian rugs have increasingly claimed their global market share (Wheat and Mera, 1984). In fact, the Persian rugs have simply gained unchallenged popularity because of their characteristic workmanship which includes extremely rich color combinations and unique distinctive designs (as cited in Barber, 1991). Inspecting the common Oriental rugs, one discovers many patterns and colors in these pieces of weaving. These patterns and colors are not in vain but have certain meanings attached to them. Wheat and Mera (1984) in their book claim that each rug's particular pattern and weave are uniquely linked with the indigenous culture. The same authours argue that certain weaving techniques are specific to an identifiable geographic region and to some extent, tribe. Thus In the 19th century, majority of the nomadic groups of people decided to settle and become farmers. This kind of reserved life brought more dramatic changes to the affected cultures, including a growing reliance on the first world civilization and its products. Consequently, trading involving woven products in the next few years after the onset of these changes paved way for the entry of the biggest economic change ever from barter economy the present day cash economy (Barber, 1991). According to documented historical evidence, such goods like yarns, woolen fabrics and other various kinds of factory woven cloth trading on today's most counters date back to this period. Barber (1991) claims that the current skirts and blouses made of manufactured cloth effectively replaced the woven two-piece blanket dress of medieval times. Finally, manufactured fabrics have gradually displaced hand-woven ones to the detriment of the early man's inventions. Based on the foregoing therefore, the presence of various types of textiles in modern day times indicates the development of weaving as an art from medieval times. Barber (1991) indicates in her study that the production of yards of fabric is as a result of long hours of spinning several types of fibers together. But the advent of the computer controlled textile mills has simplified the whole process (Wheat and Mera, 1984). The use of dyes to colour woven fabrics in the olden days was for the purpose of decorating the fabric as well as for the preservation of culture and tradition. They simply had a lot of meaning attached to them (see table 1 in the appendix).it is argued that most of these dyes were extracts from a variety of plant sources until the mid 1800's when they started coming from Europe, mainly Germany and Spain. To date, the use of dyes and colours has become a common practice in the textiles industry. Currently, the use of dyed hand woven as well as machine made fabrics have become the hallmark of most West African cultures like Nigeria and Senegal (Wheat and Mera, 1984). As wool was in great demand in olden times for making coats, upholstery, and other products, so it is today for more or less the same reasons. The primary reason for the large scale rearing of sheep in Spain and other places in the world is to produce wool and then meat as a secondary product. Research has found out that the sale of wool internationally has become more profitable than locally (Wheat and Mera, 1984). This can be attributed to the unending demand for woolen textiles in the world today. This new market trend is in line with early time's tastes and preferences when woolen woven fabrics were more valued than any other form of fabric (Barber, 1991). CHAPTER THREE Research methods 3.0. Introduction Since this is a historical study, the research paper will take the form of exploratory nature whereby all information and data related to the subject matter shall be examined in finer details. The research instrument used will be in form of a questionnaire or written survey. The instrument will be designed as a simple, productive tool which will help the researcher in collecting primary constructive information from respondents. 3.1. Area of study There will be no specific area of study proposed for this study since it is a historical one. For this reason therefore, the researcher intends to go consulting with anyone with any valuable knowledge in the area of woven fabrics. Also visiting historic sites that can offer valuable artifacts of woven objects. 3.2. Target population In this study, the researcher targeted no specific categories of subjects in particular but set out to investigate the general area of the problem at hand. But because the researcher believed that historians and archeologists are better placed in giving most valuable information in this area of investigation, then I was necessary to target them. 3.3. Sampling procedure Through stratified random sampling procedure, the researcher will select to collect information by consulting any historians and archeologists reached for primary sources of data. For the secondary sources, the researcher will also randomly consult library and other printed sources. 3.4. Instrumentation Research design utilized in this study was in the form of a simple questionnaire or written survey constructed by the researcher basically by revising original questionnaires used by other researchers elsewhere. The utilization of library based research design of secondary information from multiple archival sources such as the COMPUSTAT, the Fortune America's Most Admired Corporations (FAMA), the American Customer Satisfaction Index (ACSI), the Competitive Media Reporting (CMR), and Centre for Research in Security Prices (CRSP) were utilized to compare the early times woven fabrics and modern day woven textiles. 3.5. Data collection method For this research paper secondary information will be collected by searching for studies and published references through databases such as ABI/Inform Global and PsycINFO using keywords such as weaving, knitting, braiding, spinning, threading and embroidery and so on. To capture information on the textiles industry, other keywords such as 'organizational effectiveness and corporate social performance', 'organizational performance', 'profitability', 'economic success', and 'financial performance'. 'Corporate social performance' For primary information the proposed research paper, random sampling technique will be employed from whence a sample of a few participants will be selected from the entire population of over 200. All of the participants shall be provided with a questionnaire where applicable. The populations that will be researched will all be key stakeholders within the area of investigation among other significant members. Also, a cover letter of introduction will be included with the survey so as to let the respondents know what the research is attempting to accomplish with the survey and how valuable his or her response is. In order to entice more respondents to respond, an incentive will be offered (Bell, 1993). The Survey will avoid using technical or industry-specific jargon but it will rather offer easy-to-follow instructions. Random sampling technique shall be used for this study because it is easy and the sample population obtained through this method represents the views of the entire population (Spoull, 1995). Furthermore, this method is very effective when dealing with a large population and unspecified population. The strength of this technique is that its results are easy to analyze and manipulate using the statistical tools, especially the computer program statistical package for social science (SPSS) (Likert as cited in Berg, 1995). One weakness of this research technique is that it can be biased and therefore its findings may fail to fully present the ideas of the selected population and even fail to test the proffered hypothesis. 3.6. Ethical issues One of the ethical issues which will have to be addressed while carrying out this study is issue of confidentially. This is implying that all information given by the respondents shall be treated and kept with the utmost confidentiality. The same will have been addressed in the letter of introduction to put the respondents at ease before even embarking on completing the instrument. There are no other issues as the research will mainly deal with people who are conversant with the subject matter of the study. 3.7. Reliability and validity of the study The instrumentation of this study especially in the area of the questionnaire and the written survey will need to be reliable and valid based on the reliability and validity values given by other such instruments (Likert as cited in Berg, 1995). (See table 2 in the appendix). In comparing the reliability and validity values of the instrument used in this study others 3.8. Data analysis As this research involves an exploratory design and historical survey, all data collected will be sorted so as to be used in testing the research hypothesis. The results of the questionnaire under study will undergo a rigorous statistical analysis as already mentioned using the computer program statistical package for social science (SPSS) (Likert as cited in Berg, 1995). For this research Correlation analysis will be used in analyzing the results. This form of statistical analysis measures the relationship between two or more variables (Berg, 1995). The resulting value shows if changes in one variable will result in changes in the other variable. When comparing the correlation between two variables, one variable is called the "dependent" variable and the other the "independent" variable (Coffey & Atkinson, 1996). The goal is to see if a change in the independent variable will result in a change in the dependent variable .This information helps the researcher in understanding an indicator's predictive abilities. 3.9. Variables In this historical study, the researcher found it difficult to come up with tangible variables. But for the purpose of testing the hypothesis, the following variables were used: Necessity, Leisure, and Technology as dependent variables and Demographic as independent variable. All these variables were looked against the development of weaving as an art from early time to modern times. CHAPTER FOUR 4.0. Introduction This is the final chapter of this dissertation. It handles three items of the study. First it presents a brief discussion of the results of the study. Second item is a mention of the limitations of the research and the finally a summary of the findings in relation to literature review in chapter two. It also presents recommendations for future research and conclusions of the study. 4.1. Discussion and Conclusion Based on the results of this research, the two variables of the study were analysed using the procedures discussed in chapter three and both points regarding the history of weaving strongly supported the hypothesis that early development of weaving has positively contributed to the current growth of woven textiles. This showed a strong correlation between the two variables, that is the origin of the weave led to the development of the same. Comparing the early woven fabrics and the modern day textiles, what has surfaced is that there is a potential positive effect in relation to the performance of the market as well as the satisfaction of the customers. Looking at the literature reviewed in chapter two, there is undisputed evidence that the olden days woven fabrics have similarities to today's textiles (Berg, 1995). There are generalisations covering cases where weaving has been practised in the pre-historic man simply because there have been very sketchy information for use by researchers (Bell, 1993). Additionally, due to the unity in the results of different studies, it can also be considered as a universal opinion that the history of weaving can give positive results for the much needed advancement in the textiles industry. Apart from the fact that every organizational entity in any industry should have the responsibility to care for and look after, not only its financial welfare but also that of its customers (Mackey, Mackey, and Barney as cited in Coffey & Atkinson, 1996). Since this study was critical in investigating the history of weaving, the researcher is very much aware of the difficulties involved in carrying out this task successfully. Thus, in terms of the limitations of this study included the scarcity of reliable documented information surrounding the area of study, especially during the pre-historic period. This limitation is further compounded by the fact that most research and explorations in this issue at hand are mainly based on theoretical data and library sources only (Bell, 1993). Finally, the instruments used in this study were not really standardised and as such might not have given very reliable and valid results. The instruments as earlier mentioned were constructed by the researcher by modifying similar instruments used in related surveys. This in truth presented another limitation. For that matter, reliability of this kind of study is continuously being questioned. In relation to the said scenario, it can then be considered as delimitation by making use the knowledge pool in the field weaving especially looking at artefacts. On the other hand, longitudinal research study although resource-extensive can also be considered as an important contribution to having additional data thus further delimiting the limitations. Also the same has the potentialities to explain unclear areas that cannot be simulated and predicted by theoretical models (Coffey & Atkinson, 1996). This study demonstrated that there is an overwhelming need to arrest the problem of non research activities in this area under study. The researcher therefore recommends that more studies should be conducted in this area to build up more research information. In conclusion, it is the responsibility of all those involved in the textiles industry to devise methods and means of dealing with the strongly pertinent issues standing in the way of modernising this industry. The lack of enough documented facts about the history of weaving can be overcome by preserving the little there is in museums and use more complicated implements in archeological work. References Barber, E. J.W. (1991). Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean. Princeton: Princeton University Press. Bell, J. (1993). Doing your research project: a guide for first-time researchers in education and social science (2nd ed.). Buckingham; Philadelphia: Open University Press. Coffey, A. and Atkinson, P. (1996). Making sense of qualitative data. Thousand Oaks, CA: Sage. Spoull, N.L. (1995). Handbook of research methods: a guide for practitioners and students in the social sciences. (2nd ed.). Metuchen, NJ: Scarecrow Press. Wheat, J. B. and Mera, H. P. (1984). The Gift of Spiderwoman: Southwestern Textiles, The Navajo Tradition. Philadelphia: The University Museum, University of Pennsylvania. Appendix Table 1: Common symbols and colors and the meanings attached to them Colours Attached meaning Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Black Brown White Happiness, joy Devotion, piety Power, glory Paradise, sacred, Solitude, truth Destruction Fertility Purity, peace, grief Animals Attached meaning Ram Horns Deer Dogs Duck Camel Butterfly Lion Fish Dragon Dove Horse Peacock Male fertility Well being Protector of noble places Faithful marriage Wealth Happiness Victory Abundance & prosperity Emperor Peace Speed Divine protection Plants Attached meaning Bamboo Iris Cyprus Tree Lily Weeping Willow Carnation Peony Wealth & honor Liberty Immortality Purity Meditation Wisdom Rank & wealth Fig: Adopted and modified by the Researcher from Barber (1991). Table 2: Means, Standard Deviation and Alpha Co-efficient Found in Study. Researcher Mean Standard Deviation Alpha Co-efficient Bowers G. & Tylor R. (1970) 3.70 0.90 0.85 Ferries, A.E. (1978) 5.18 1.05 Wagstaff, L.H. ( 1969) 4.30 0.91 0.88 Leplowaski, M.L. (1986) 5.18 1.13 Carr, R.W. (1984) 5.04 0.87 Likert, R.& Likert, J (1986 5.14 0.90 0.89 Read More