Men and Womens Tailoring in 19 Century - Coursework Example

Men and Women’s Tailoring (1935-1950) Introduction From prehistoric times when fig leaves and loin cloths were sufficient clothing for men and women, fashion has since, diversely and radically evolved. The practical purpose of clothing has also changed throughout the years. At some point, the aesthetic part of fashion made its mark into our clothes and our lives. But now, both the practical and the aesthetic part of men and women’s clothing have found their way into our closets. The evolution of our clothing sensibilities has been diverse and gradual. And it has often been influenced by events which have caused upheavals or changes in our values and our sensibilities. This paper shall critically assess the effects of world events (around the time of 1930-1950) on both men’s and women’s tailoring, focusing on changing aesthetics in relation to gender. It shall also discuss the effects world events (like World War II) on women’s and men’s role and on lifestyle changes. The gender issues that were existent from 1935-1950 and how these issues changed the aesthetics of tailoring fashion shall also be discussed in this paper. Men’s Fashion (1935-1950) Men’s fashion in the early 30’s was influenced by the Wall Street Crash of October 1929. Nolan (2005) discusses that, at about this time 8 million people were out of work in the United States. As a result, clothing was not prioritized over basic necessities. Clothing sales declined and many apparel businesses went out of business. The demand for Edwardian style clothes also declined. The tailors and clothing designers were forced to come up with a different style of dressing. Men’s suits were then designed to create the image of a large torso with shoulders squared with shoulder pads and sleeves tapered to the wrist. Peaked lapels formed a v-shaped chest. The double-breasted suit became popular and eventually gave way to the modern business suit (Nolan, 2005). In 1935, however, prosperity in the United States slowly returned. Prosperity also demanded a better design of the business suit. The ‘London cut’ was introduced to the fashion world at this point. Sleeves tapered slightly from shoulder to wrist, the pockets and buttons were high, the lapels were wide and pointed flaring from the top rather than the middle buttons, and flat rather than roll lapels completed the London cut business suit (Nolan, 2005). The London cut business suit underwent various changes to its style with the Windsor double-breasted and the Kent double-breasted suits making their way into men’s tailoring. Blazers also became a popular summer wear. These were descendants of jackets worn by English university students on sports teams from the late 19th century (Nolan, 2005). The rise of the gangsters in this era also brought about the gangster dress style. This style featured wider stripes, bolder glen plaids, colorful ties, pronounced shoulders, narrow waists, and wide trouser bottoms. Fashion in the 1930s for men started out on a bleak note, however, as the tides of fortune changed for the better, so did men’s wear. However, as England and France declared war on Germany, men’s fashion took a historic turn (Nolan, 2005). Nolan (2005) further discusses that economic conditions in the early 40s registered in the extreme. Not many Americans owned a car; only one in seven Americans had a telephone, and only about 15 percent of the college-age population attended college. In 1939, England declared war on Germany. In 1940, the US transferred its destroyers to Great Britain, and a year after, they also joined the Second World War. In March of 1942, the US government War Production Board issued regulation L-85. This regulation controlled every facet of clothing. It also restricted the use of natural fibers (Nolan, 2005). Wool supplies for civilian clothing were reduced from 204,000 to 136,000 tons in order to comply with military requirements. Most countries, at this point, opted to produce artificial fibers. Most commonly used materials were the viscose and the rayon. However, these were poor substitutes because they were not warm and were prone to shrinking. The War Production Board, through its apparel consultant Stanley Marcus, opined that the designer’s patriotic duty during war time was to provide clothing designs which would remain stylish through various seasons while still using a minimum of fabric (Nolan, 2005). As a result, men’s suits were made without vests and pocket flaps; multiple pleats and cuffs in men’s trousers were also eliminated. McCalls also created patterns in order to transform men’s suits into ladies suits, since the men were in the war and were not wearing said garments (Nolan, 2005). The zoot suit was spared the strict rationing by the Board. In fact, these zoot suits were considered contraband and illicit items during the War. The suit was a product of the 30s Harlem nightclubs. It was comprised of an oversized jacket, wide lapels and shoulders, with baggy low-crotched trousers that narrowed dramatically at the ankle (Nolan, 2005). This suit led to similar fashion trends in the 1940s where the men’s coats were roomier than was usual, and the trousers were mostly high-waisted. By the end of the war in 1945, men’s fashion changed dramatically. The style became full-cut and long (Nolan, 2005). The fashion was in complete contrast with the war shortages. The fashion now leaned towards representations of luxury and prosperity. The hand-painted ties now featured skyscrapers, foliage, rodeos, and even pin-up models. Casual shirts were introduced post-war. The Hawaiian shirts were seen in the sunny beaches in the states of California and Florida. These shirts were seen in bright colors with flowery and even ‘fruity’ designs. Men were now seen in the streets sans jackets and with shirt tails flapping in the breeze. By the late 1940s, Esquire created a new look they called ‘the bold look’. This look comprised of a loose fitting jacket with pronounced shoulders, single-breasted jackets with notched lapels and three buttons. The peaked lapels were mostly reserved for double-breasted jackets, and these jackets had a center vent (Nolan, 2005). The men coming home from war craved new looks as they now grew tired of their uniforms. The American designers now came up with sportswear and the rest of the world followed their trends. The younger people were also setting trends in fashion and the older people were content in following their lead (Nolan, 2005). Women’s fashion Ponder (2008) discusses that women’s fashion in the 1930s was simpler than in the 1920s. When the Great Depression of the 1920s hit, the first wave of women’s liberation also made its mark. Women were starting to leave their homes to find work, and they also gained the right to vote. The fashion seen during this time leaned toward the young, hip, and trendy styles. The skirt hemlines were raised and the hairstyles were shortened. The fun and frivolous fashion was seen after the First World War, however the Great Depression brought a damper to the fun and frivolity. The hemlines were brought back down and clothes became more somber. The 1930s became a time for sensual romance in fashion (Ponder, 2008). The trend became ‘less is more’; the small pillbox hat made its appearance; interesting seams and feminine hair were also seen. The ruffles and gowns cut on the bias also came back into fashion (Ponder, 2008). In the day time, the ladies were seen in suits or dresses which were mostly in the A-line fashion with hemlines in the mid-calf area or right below the knee. Their jackets were tightened at the waist by belts or by design. The shoes were either low or mid-level heeled; however, flaps and tie-ups were also worn. Hair was worn short to medium length, but this would grow longer in later years. At night, evening dresses seen were in the full-length fashion, with arms free or covered (Ponder, 2008). Womanly glamour was brought to the forefront in the 1920s and 1930s. Women were also able to show their curves and their ultra-feminine styles during said decades. Most of Europe was still recovering from the First World War during the 1930s, so the Great Depression was not only seen in the United States, but also seen across the globe. Many designers, at this point, were trying to combine the ideas of French houses like Chanel and Vionnet, while considering the obvious considerations of practical living (Ponder, 2008). Better hair care products were also manufactured, and as a result, women were now able to perm and style their hair. Ponder (2008) discusses that the Second World War impacted greatly on both men and women’s fashion. German’s occupation of France gave them a chance to control haute couture. Even before the Second World War, New York fashion designers regularly attended fashion shows in France. After which, they returned to the United States and applied such trends in the United States. When the German ships were stationed in the Atlantic, travelling designers from New York could no longer attend the shows in Paris. And as a result, the New York designers were now detached from the latest fashion trends set by Paris. They were then prompted to create their own designs for the United States. And they ended up concentrating on sportswear. As a result, the United States became the sportswear capital of the world (Ponder, 2008). At the start of the Second World War, the priority turned into war goods manufacturing. As was previously mentioned, the government confiscated all natural fabrics. Synthetics use came into the forefront. Nylon stockings soon disappeared in 1943. In order to comply with the L-85 regulation, American designers were forced to create a new style of suits for women. The skirts became short and were topped with short jackets 25 inches or less in length. The long flowing gowns were replaced with cardigans matched with skirts and sheath evening dresses (Ponder, 2008). McCalls created patterns for transforming men’s and women’s suits and dresses into children’s clothing. Women were also prompted to sew clothes for their families. The theme in the forties was geared towards a more conservative look which was inclined to remain fashionable for various seasons. The designers also conceptualized the idea of separates and coordinating components just to create the illusion of having more outfits than one actually had (Ponder, 2008). The sportswear styles also became popular around college campuses and crossed societal barriers and even age groups. When the Second World War ended, Paris reasserted its dominance in fashion through the traveling exhibition known as Theatre de la Mode. Various designers participated in this exhibition. Dolls dressed in the latest fashion were exhibited around the world. This exhibition was also able to raise money for war relief efforts. It traveled to the Louvre in France, to Barcelona, London, Leeds, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Vienna, New York, and San Francisco (Ponder, 2008). Through this exhibit, Paris successfully regained its dominance in the fashion industry. After the Second World War, American women also grew tired of severe and plain fashion. Dior then introduced the ‘new look’ for the American woman. Fuller and longer skirts were now seen as fabrics were now lavishly used (Ponder, 2008). Women’s fashion again became feminine and romantic. Ruffles found their way into skirts and necklines; feminine blouses were seen; collars were generously full; lace accentuated skirts and blouses. Undergarments transitioned into two separate items – the bra and the girdle. Wires were introduced into bras, and nylon stockings found its way again into the market (Ponder, 2008). Leather platform shoes became popular. The soles of these shoes were studded with ‘nailheads’. These ‘nailheads’ were again another sample of the more opulent lifestyle that the Americans were trying to adapt into their lives. Gender issues and fashion During the First World War, the role of women increased, and their roles departed from usual social mores and sexual roles. Gender issues on the woman’s role in the family expanded and broke away from the traditional homemaker roles. This led to shorter haircuts, and higher hemlines. Because of diminished restrictions on femininity, women’s fashion in the 1930s also became less restrictive. “Embellishment and ornamentation was more restrained, and dress patterns were reduced to simple shapes (i.e. squares, circles, cylinders, etc.) that were allowed to drape naturally on the body, rather than restrain it with restrictive tailoring” (Hermanson, 2008). Women’s sports also became more acceptable in the 1930s; hence, women now had a chance to have an active lifestyle. Their physique also changed as a result. The Edwardian and Victorian full-figured images now changed into svelte and athletic bodies. Hemlines became shorter, but were still very much below the knee. This new found athleticism also affected men’s figures; hence, there was also a shift to cleaner and slimmer lines in trousers and men’s suits (Hermanson, 2008). When the Second World War became full blown, gender lines again became blurred as the women were also forced to work in order to contribute to the war efforts and to the economy in general. Men’s wear influenced women’s wear in the 1930s. Nevertheless, women still attempted to add a touch of femininity to their skirt suits by adding bows in order to minimize the masculinity of the suits they were made to wear (Hermanson, 2008). It is also important to note that during the Second World War, Paris (fashion capital of the world) adjusted its clothing designs accordingly. Therefore, the rationing of fabrics was not just seen in the United States, but was also seen in Paris and other parts of the world. In general, the designs during World War II were one of drabness and uniformity. The people were also encouraged to make do with what they had and to mend the clothes they already had (Cooper, 2009). The working woman in the factories wore turbans in order to keep their hair safe from the machineries. These turbans also doubled as scarves for hiding unkempt hair. The women now had less time to keep themselves groomed, considering the various responsibilities they were now fulfilling. These are the trends seen in men and women’s fashion from 1935 to 1950. These trends clearly indicate the important relationship between the economy to fashion and tailoring. The Great Depression created an austere fashion which was later improved as the economic conditions of the United States also improved. However, as another major event (World War II) was seen, again, changes in fashion were seen. Women’s fashion was also affected by the changing views on femininity and on other gender issues. These changes ranged from women’s working clothes to impositions on conservatism. These changes represent the evolution of the world, not just in its physical history, but in its aesthetic history as well Works Cited Cooper, R., June 2009, Time line of fashion from the Victorian Era through the 1950s-terms of interest to the fashion industry, Apparel Search, viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.apparelsearch.com/Terms/T/Time_Line_Fashion_From_Victorian_Era_Trhough_1950s.htm Hermanson, T., 9 October 2008, Art Deco Fashion and Commentary, Thread for Thought, 23 September 2009 from http://threadforthought.net/2008/10/09/art-deco-fashion-social-commentary/ Mens Fashion History, 2005, Lindy Hopping, viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.lindyhopping.com/fashionhistm.html Nolan, C., 2005, Men’s Fashion of the nineteen-hundred thirties, Lindy Hopping, viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.lindyhopping.com/fashionhistm.html Nolan, C., 2005, Men’s Fashion of the nineteen-hundred forties, Lindy Hopping, viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.lindyhopping.com/fashionhistm.html Nolan, C., 2008, Ladies Fashions of the 1940s, Murray on Travel, viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.murrayontravel.com/carolnolan/fashionhistory_1940ladies.html Ponder, J., 2008, The Look of Womens Fashion in 1930, eHow.com., viewed 23 September 2009 from http://www.ehow.com/about_4598078_look-womens-fashion.html Read More