Contact Us
Sign In / Sign Up for FREE
Go to advanced search...

Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking - Essay Example

Comments (0) Cite this document
The flow of winds over water bodies creates ripples on the surface of water and thus creates disturbances which make it rough. Taking grip of such a rough surface, the stronger winds that flow over the surface, again push the ripples in the direction of wind, and thus those small disturbances take a larger form by growing into waves…
Download full paperFile format: .doc, available for editing
GRAB THE BEST PAPER92.5% of users find it useful
Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking
Read TextPreview

Extract of sample "Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking"

Download file to see previous pages However the magnitude of such waves may be unequal.
In the process, the energy from the wind is transferred to the wave and this is then carried on to great distances. In this process, a waver undergoes many transitions in its energy and characteristics when it interferes with other waves. The energy of such a wave might then increase or decrease when such interferences occur. In this phenomenon of energy transfer, the water molecules itself do not physically move with the wave but rather pass on the energy in the direction of the wave by just moving up and down. Creation of waves is a continuous process and therefore small and large waves can be seen almost continuously to be moving towards the shore.
Such waves are created at any location in oceans irrespective to its relative location with the land mass however differential temperature play an important role in governing where shall the wind blow from and eventually plays a vital role in generation of waves. The temperatures of oceans also differ from each other and the kind of waves that can be seen in one differs much from the other.
When the wave approaches landmass and as the sea floor begins to rise, the wave gradually changes its shape. Its physical form gets transformed and edge waves are generated by this interaction. When a swell reaches the coastline it also comes nearer to the sea floor which offers friction and results in eventually slowing down of the wave. The wave loses some part of its energy with this contact. With this retardation in speed, the period of the wave is shortened and thus the wave height increases and this creates more visible and turbulent crests in a wave. This phenomenon of slowing down of waves is called shoaling.
The manner in which this happens is largely dependent upon the nature of the sea floor; especially it's gradient. This process of shoaling ultimately results into a situation where the top of the wave attains a considerable height and the forward movement of the upper part overtakes the wave and begins to spill foreword. This results into the disintegration of the wave formation and thus resulting into what is called a 'wave break'. This breaking of wave is dependent on many different factors such as the type of swell, the direction and intensity of wind, slope of sea bed and sea floor features like physical objects, vegetation etc.
The factor of wind is the most vital in understanding and prediction how the wave shall break in what time of the day. When the offshore wind is blowing from the land side to the seaside, it prolongs the time that a wave takes to break. The wind blows to act against the top part of the wave and thus provides it a support. Therefore the wave takes longer time to break in comparison to what it would have taken in the absence of wind. In this case the wave creates more powerful break when it is achieved. The onshore wind that flows from sea side to the landside acts in the opposite manner to the phenomenon explained in the offshore winds and therefore it lessens the time that a wave needs to break by pushing the upper part of the wave. In a way, it aids the water to break even before it reaches the desired amount of rise so as to cause its naturally swelling. In this phenomenon it can be seen that many times the waves break before teaching the ...Download file to see next pagesRead More
Cite this document
  • APA
  • MLA
(“Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 words”, n.d.)
Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 words. Retrieved from
(Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 Words)
Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 Words.
“Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking Essay Example | Topics and Well Written Essays - 1250 Words”, n.d.
  • Cited: 0 times
Comments (0)
Click to create a comment or rate a document

CHECK THESE SAMPLES OF Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking

The French New Wave is about Breaking the Rules

...? The French New Wave Is about Breaking the Rules The French New Wave is a term used to express displeasure with the French film makers of the 1950s and 1960s. This movement was never organized formally. According to Bazin (1985, 248-259), this group of film makers deliberately rejected the traditional classical cinematic form. They were a group of young people who were greatly influenced by Italian and American style of filmmaking (Bazin, 1985, 248-259). It became a bright example of European art cinema. New wave production tended to be a shift from the conservative style. The new wave was heavily associated with the political upheavals of the time. They were known to make radical changes with editing, narrative part and visual style...
9 Pages(2250 words)Essay

Bankruptcy prediction

...I am doing FTSE all share travel and leisure industry. Please see attached spreadsheet, I retrieved data from datastream advanced Define researchquestions and objectives based on bankruptcy prediction. 2. Write abstract. 3. Write Introduction. 4. Write Methodology sections. (please refer to references section below) 5. Define Hypotheses and test by using SPSS software to do cross-sectional anlaysis based on spreadsheet attached. (Ohlson model) 6. Conclusion Here is Ohlson model. Example: Y = -1.3 - .4 Y1 + 6.0 Y2 - 1.4 Y3 + .1 Y4 -2.4 Y5 - 1.8 Y6 + .3Y7 -1.7 Y8 - .5Y9 where: Y1 = log(total assets/GNP price-level index); Y2 = total liabilities/total assets; Y3 = working capital/ total assets; Y4 = current liabilities/current assets...
13 Pages(3250 words)Research Paper

Coastal Defence

The process of land claim means that it is necessary to exclude the sea from part or all of this intertidal area, and also protect this area from reinundation. Land claim for agriculture and industry generally takes in the higher salt marsh because the higher elevation of the intertidal area claimed means, first, that the wave activity will be reduced by the lower marshes and mudflats fronting the area to be reclaimed. (Yates 235-249) In cases where there are not sufficient areas of such deposits fronting the proposed claim, then the area is perhaps not well suited. Second, less material is needed to build up the newly created dry land. Third, the higher the elevation, the lower the sea walls need to be to prevent tidal overtoppi...
4 Pages(1000 words)Essay

Wave Overtopping on Coastal Structures

Traditionally, laboratory experiments and field observations have been used to study this turbulent oceanographic phenomenon and empirical formulae have been derived from these but severe limitations existed since parameters to which these derivations fitted were local (Shao, 2006). Thus, in recent time, universal derivations that can fit across a wide range of parametric requirements of structure geometry, water conditions and wave dynamics are considered essential and desirable. To this end, fluid dynamics proves a somewhat reliable model generator but traditional Eulerian approaches that discretise governing equations over a computational field divided into a grid system based on local parameters develop problems of numerical...
14 Pages(3500 words)Essay

Wave Overtopping and Coastal Structures

... there has been significant improvement in understanding enough of it to predict near-precise real-time wave and structural parametric values that influence it and, thus, design more efficient coastal structures against it. Nevertheless, there is still much to be done to fully understand it and it is to this objective that this paper has been dedicated. The phenomenon, in its pure essential elements and in association with coastal architecture that may be both human designed and natural, has complex kinematics that is contributed to by numerous parameters that, in turn, have to be disclosed in all their entirety and fully understood and properly defined before the wave overtopping phenomenon can be comprehensively defined. Wave dynamics...
9 Pages(2250 words)Essay

Gene Prediction

... Gene Prediction Question Gene prediction is the establishment of the pattern assumed by the codons (three pairs of nucleotides) in coding for proteins. Gene predictions can be done using three techniques; pattern based, content based and comparative based, in this prediction, pattern based technique was used. It involves pasting the whole genome sequence of the organism given in a FASTA format then clicking the ORF finder that will automatically give the start and the stop codons alongside the longest pattern. In this case, the human genome was given and upon subjecting it to the ORF finder, the longest pattern was identified to have 996 nucleotides. This corresponds to 331 codons also known as amino acids. The longest pattern always...
2 Pages(500 words)Lab Report

Target Prediction

UMUC BIOT630 Lecture 10 Exercise – “Due Version” Question a Using miRBase (http, what is the accession number for “mmu-mir-223”?Answer = The accession number for “mmu-mir-223” is MI0000703.
Question 1.b
Overlooking the record provided as your answer to Question 1.a, what “Gene Family” does “mmu-mir-223” belong to?
Answer = “mmu-mir-223” belongs to MIPF0000067; mir-223 (23 sequences) gene family.
Question 1.c
What gene does “mmu-mir-223” fall within?
Answer = The “mmu-mir-223” is an RNA gene” or a “non-coding RNA gene (ncRNA) involved in gene regulation.
Question 1.d
What type of gene feature does “mmu-mir-223” fall in?
Answer = “mmu-mir-223” is a microRNA (miRNA) gene.
Question 1.e
2 Pages(500 words)Essay

Coastal engineering

... of the coastal zone to guard against flooding, erosion, and sediment transport. Waves have a major influence on the marine environment and ultimately on the planets climate. Waves travel effortlessly along the waters surface. This is made possible by small movements of the water molecules. The wind blows over the water, changing its surface into ripples and waves. As waves grow in height, the wind pushes them along faster and higher. Waves can become unexpectedly strong and destructive. As waves enter shallow water, they become taller and slow down, eventually breaking on the shore.  Background Waves have crests (the peak of the wave) and troughs (the lowest point on the wave). The wavelength, or horizontal size of the wave, is determined...
10 Pages(2500 words)Assignment

Coastal Development

...Coastal Development al Affiliation Coastal Development Hurricane Sandy is arguably the worst hurricane ever witnessed in U.S. history. The Hurricane Sandy that hit the U.S. coastline on October 2012 caused massive destruction to properties on the coastline and left hundreds of people dead (Foster, 2014). Official report released after the disaster confirmed that at least 117 American citizens perished in the disaster while 69 others died in Canadian and Caribbean coastline making the hurricane the deadliest and most destructive hurricane disasters ever. However, evidences point that the destruction caused by the hurricane could have been minimized if proper measures were put by homeowners and contractures at the affected coastlines...
1 Pages(250 words)Assignment

Breaking Boundaries

...Breaking Boundaries I chose the cultural experience of wedding function for participant observation. I chose this cultural experience because weddingfunctions are rich and quite suitable occasions for observation of a culture. People display all bright shades of their cultures on their wedding functions. I wanted to know how people celebrate weddings in that culture; how much they usually spend on weddings, and where do there draw a line between necessity and overspending. Most importantly, I wanted to draw my own conclusions about the social psychology of people belonging to that culture and the potential ways in which that psychology differs from our social psychology. Social psychology lays the foundation of the society as a whole...
4 Pages(1000 words)Essay

The French New Wave

...The marvelous five directors that made the French New Wave were Francois Truffaut, Claude Chabrol, Eric Romer, Jacques Rivette and Jean- Luc Godard. Directors like Alain Resnais, Agnes Varda, Louis Malle and Chris Marker are also considered as belonging to the movement. But the above mentioned five formed a group of film critics who turned into film making later. The total energetic ambience for the new film movement was set by two great institutions in the history of French cinema ----Cahiers du cinema and The Cinematheque Francaise .Cahiers du Cinema is a militant journal for new film movement founded by the film theorist and critic Andre Bazin in 1950. He edited the journal until his death at the age of forty in 1958.All the five...
8 Pages(2000 words)Essay

Causes and Consequences of the Second Great Wave Immigration to the US

...Causes and Consequences of Immigration in US history until WW1 Prior to 1890, the vast majority of immigrants to the U.S. originated from Western and Northern European countries such as Germany, Britain and the Scandinavian regions. During the period of 1890 to 1918, the U.S. experienced a surge of immigration often referred to as the ‘second great wave’ where more than 25 million people came to America, again mostly from Europe but a majority of this wave consisted of people from the Southern and Eastern regions of the continent such as Italy and Poland. (Pedraza 1996). This mass influx of immigrants was needed and welcomed. The Industrial Revolution was in full swing during this time, society was completing its transformation...
7 Pages(1750 words)Research Paper

Breaking the Chains of Psychological Slavery

...Breaking the Chains of Psychological Slavery Table of Contents Overview 1 Chapter 1: The Psychological Legacy of Slavery 2 Chapter 2: Liberation from Mental Slavery 3 Chapter 3: Racial Religious Inquiry and Psychological Confusion 5 Bibliography 8 Overview “Breaking the Chains of Psychological Slavery” by Nai’m Akbar is a strong psychological document on African-American slaves. The psychological testimony bears fact and presents a volley of psychological study on the existence of the African-American slaves in contemporary time. The book also intends to throw light on the psychological findings and reasons behind the failure of the Black folks staying together. The book intends to find the psychological implication and aftermath...
7 Pages(1750 words)Research Paper

Air and Sea Carbon Dioxide Exchange in Coastal Zones

Oceans have a higher ratio of carbon dioxide as compared to the atmosphere. Marine organisms like planktons, seaweeds, and microscopic creatures require carbon dioxide for their growth while plants on land require carbon dioxide for their growth.
Gases are present in our atmosphere as well as in oceans. These gases get mixed with one another as the exchange takes place between the two mediums regarding the gases present in them. Our atmosphere contains a number of gases such as nitrogen, oxygen, carbon dioxide and many other gases (Tokoro, et al 2007). Likewise, the oceans also contain a number of different gases that get emitted into the air. Carbon dioxide from the atmosphere that is naturally created as well as fabricated be...
11 Pages(2750 words)Essay

Coastal Storm Defenses

Coastal flooding, cyclone, hurricanes, tornado are some of the common coastal storms. Hurricane is generally a tropical cyclone with a wind speed of 74 mph or greater. A tropical cyclone has a wind speed between 39 mph and 73 mph.  Extra tropical cyclone is generally large scale storm of temperate latitudes, while the tropical cyclone which is also called the hurricane is somewhat smaller in area than the former. It is accompanied by high winds and heavy rains. On the other hand tornado or twister is a small but intense storm with very high winds. Generally, it has a limited duration. The thunderstorm is accompanied by brief but heavy rain showers and often by hail. Generally, it is local in nature (“Storm Surge&rs...
9 Pages(2250 words)Assignment

Hallyu - Korean Wave Sweeping Across East Asia

...Hallyu - Korean Wave Sweeping Across East Asia Overview of the Korean Wave The Korean Wave also known as Hallyu, is a popular culture of South Korean origins that has caught on globally. The Korean Wave is comparable to the US’s Hollywood as it is comprised of entertainment in terms of television entertainment, film, drama, music, film stars, comedy and animation. The electronic media including mobile phones, ipods, computer entertainment, fashion, food, cosmetics and even household appliances are increasingly gaining currency as part of the Korean Wave culture (Connor 2009, p. 342). The popularity of the Korean Wave is evidenced by its rising appeal throughout Asia. Asian youths throughout Asia are taking pains to learn Korean just...
7 Pages(1750 words)Research Paper

Wave Kinetics and Tidal Energy as an Alternative Energy Resources

... energy from the water to generate electrical power, the price of power attained from these alternative resources is low. The capital cost to initialize the projects involving the attenuators, point absorber, moving column, floating reservoirs or tidal turbines is low as compared to that of the nuclear, solar or wind. Moreover, tides and waves are more predictable then wind. There are many sites available for the generation of hydro kinetic energy, as most of the countries and regions in the world are blessed with vast oceans and seas that can help generate the power utilizing the hydrokinetic energy of the waves. In the similar manner, many rivers are utilized to install the tidal turbines. In this way, the transmission cost of electricity...
7 Pages(1750 words)Assignment

Consider the role of impact prediction within EIA and establish principles for best practice. From a review of at least two Environmental Statements (ESs) assess the extent to which best practice is being achieved

...Impact Prediction within EIA and Established Principles for Best Practice credentials) Introduction Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) is a key instrument for the environmental policy of the European Union. This procedure is an instrument that is used for the formulation of preventive and comprehensive environment policies. Impact prediction is an important instrument in the development, planning, and use of resources and territory.It is the consideration of environmental concerns in all phases of the project, from its conception to its operations, including its closure, if any, thathelps design a project initiativethat is more concerned with the receiving environment, without compromising the technical and economic feasibility...
11 Pages(2750 words)Essay

Characteristics of Dictators in The Wave

... Characteristics of Dictators: A Contextual Analysis of “The Wave” Introduction The wave is a movie set over a nineday period in a high school. Contrary to expectation, it is not just the ordinary high school drama type of movie. The movie has deep and thrilling revelations. Based on an informal sort of class experiment by a high school teacher making efforts to teach issues ascribed to autocratic leadership despite the fact that he is a an anarchist. The movie meets the criteria for making any good movie or story for that matter. It has all the right ingredients to ensure success there is the initial situation, complication, conflict, suspense, climax and conclusion. The plot is organized in a manner that depicts various imperative...
6 Pages(1500 words)Movie Review

The Nigerian Operatives in the Domestic Coastal Shipping

... to develop policies aimed incorporating the indigenous people to the coastline trade sphere. For instance, a remarkable milestone to address this concern was "the passage into law of the Coastal and Inland Shipping (Cabotage) Act in 2003 whose objective was to empower the natives’ capacity in the maritime industry” (National Maritime Authority, 2003). Moreover, after the ratification of the act, the Cabotage vessel financing fund (CVFF) was established to facilitate the development of native ships and acquisitions, which provided financial aid to the Nigerian operatives in the domestic coastal shipping (Balouga, 2012). The implementation of the Act was to be accomplish by two agencies, the Maritime Labour Industrial Council...
8 Pages(2000 words)Term Paper
sponsored ads
We use cookies to create the best experience for you. Keep on browsing if you are OK with that, or find out how to manage cookies.

Let us find you another Essay on topic Prediction of Coastal Wave Breaking for FREE!

Contact Us