The Fashion Industry and World War II - Research Paper Example

World War II had far reaching effect on the world fashion industry; this was after the Nazis took over Paris (which was the center for fashion in the world) back in June 14th 1940. This saw the closure of many fashion houses and top designers either retired or went into exile. In France, full skirts, high-heeled shoes and silk blouses were only available to those who could afford them, this is because fabrics in Britain and abroad were difficult to find. With inadequate creation in Paris due to war, American designers had the joy of developing their own styles. But this was short-lived, because America entry to war in 1941 saw Government restriction on civilian access to food and critical materials due to the needs of the armed forces and war production. The adoption of restriction rules in America was different from other countries, the responsibility of clothing rationing was on manufactures rather than civilian, Stanley Marcus was the head of the textile division of the WPB and he essentially froze the silhouette of the time by restricting the amount of fabric that could be used to create garment to its 1941 amount. Rules for clothing industry were created such as Limitation Order-85(L-85). The following are some of the restriction imposed by the L-85 order. 1. For blouses. No hoods, If tucking or pleating is used, ruffling could not be used and vice versa. There was to be no more than one pocket, inside or out, and no patch pocket using more than 25 inches of material. 2. In relations to coats, There was to be no bi-swing or Norfolk type backs, No epaulets or tabs on the shoulders, Sleeve circumference is limited to 16.5 inches. 3. Skirts/ suits and play suits. Hem circumference reduced from 81 inches to 78 for misses’ size 16 made non-wool fabrics of 9 ounce weight or less. No culottes, reversible skirt, quilted skirts or skating skirts. 4. Dresses. No more than 2 buttons were allowed and 2 buttonholes for each cuff, No quilting using more than 300 square inches, People were limited to only 3 pairs of leather footwear per year. This was in order to regulate the uncontrolled demand as there was shortage of leather and manpower as well as military demand. Items of clothing such as shoes came under direct rationing; others fell under indirect rationing as a result of strict restriction being imposed upon manufacturers and wholesalers by the War Production Board, (WPB) program for conservation of strategic materials. Nylon production for instance was directed to military use in February 1942. It was used in parachutes. Rubber and leather was reserved for the military use. Cotton was not restricted immediately but the heavy military demand and changing of cotton fields into crop production and the poor cotton crop later during the war affected greatly its supply. Silk materials that came from the east became scarce due to cessation of overseas shipping. Rubber controls were significantly tightened during the war due to the high military demand. By February 1942, U.S had been cut from 90% of its natural rubber supply. However, the American fashion industry adopted measures, companies like Sears, Roebuck & co, offered shoes for other rationing coupons, other companies like Lane Bryant advertised “Non-Rationed Shoes) which were non- leather and were also wedge style or combination of the two. The ‘Wedge Shoe’ gained popularity during World War 2; it was originally created by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1935, it was made from cork sole and natural fiber for the upper part. The shoe utilized such materials as hemp, felt, and raffia plaited cellophane and crocheted. Silk was substituted with nylon but later on, it became needed for making parachutes. Shortage of stockings made women to resort for trousers which were adopted by the young and the working classes. The L-85 restriction order made American designers who were eager to make a place in the fashion world, not being allowed a large margin for their originality. Modifications were made to shorten the length of skirts, shirts and dresses, utility clothing had small pockets and men’s had no cuffs so as to conserve on fabric. Designers concentrated on making short skirts and jacket. Due to shortage of nylon, stockings disappeared; ladies started drawing with pencil “seam” line at the back of their legs. Women’s hats were not rationed, many women sought their individualism in using them, they were greatly modified to be stylish and colorful, pins with patriotic messages were added to clothing, hats and scarves. Rationing also affected the hair and makeup industry in the U.S and U.K; ingredients like glycerin, castor oil, alcohol and talcum powder were set aside for war. Beauty Magazines took the lead advising on how to maintain good looks in the trying times. Comb and hair pins were made to be recycled and new Hair styles developed like Veronica Lake made the deep side part and shoulder length hair extremely popular as it used little products. The mandate of L-85 did not affect Hollywood as it did to the fashion industry but they did recycle or re-used clothes from previous production or they were made from fabric that was there in studio’s costume shops. As more women worked in factories, they wore clothes that fitted their job; turbans gained popularity as they protected women’s hair from being caught by machines in factories, in the shoe industries there emerged a new trend to replace leather with reptile skin and mesh, ladies high heel shoes were limited by law to only one inch and allowed for only six color choices. Wearing suits became limited to office, going to the church and formal events. Zoo suits commonly won by black musicians became common and influenced heavily men’s ware. This showed support of the issue of racism that America was facing at the time. It is during this time that the use of rayon begun but further research at DunPont Company, nylon was discovered and came into use, nylon stockings were finally introduced at the New York’s World fair in April 1939. Despite the fact that Hollywood did not get affected by the regulation of L-85, it emerged that styles in particular hair styles cropped up from movie stars, there was emergence of the 2 piece bikini during this period of war too. Swimming suits became more popular and short skirts were preferred as they were cheaper at that time. Work clothes turned into nothing more than army clothing soldiers wore in the war. Leather and T-shirts became very popular in the 1940’s. Patriotic jewelry was all the rage of American Eagle Wings and flag pins were worn proudly on coats, suits and hats. Faux pearls, floral earrings, fur pins and ornate broaches helped women to feel more feminine and pretty. Some other major effects of the war on clothing industry was the introduction of the Boy scout Uniform. American mothers in industries adopted the wearing of jeans; this style was further established because of tendency for many GIs to wear T-shirts and fatigues. The short GI hair cut was after the war adopted by boys who wanted to look like dad. Due to the interactions during the war and the extensive migration, much was shared in regards to fashion; adoption of new styles became extensive with American jeans spreading to the Far East countries. Though American designers kept at par with increasing creativity, men’s fashion saw no great changes, in the mid 1930’s trousers became high-waist and very full especially among the younger generation, with advertisements in sears Roebuck catalog of 1933 boasting 22-inc bottom. Wool sweaters in pullover cardigan, and vest styles were popular for weekend leisure activities and as campus attire for college set. Much influence on fashion was from film stars, an average American emulated the styles sported by their favorites movie star. With the emergence of the readymade industry, it made fashionable dressing available and affordable to the middle class allowing them to copy expensive couture fashions all this creativity shunned away with emergence of the second world war 2. Exiting effect of the war on women was introduction of the two piece bathing suit for women. Many designers during the war were making designs that were more feministic and chic despite the shortage of wool that was persistent at that time, on March 1943 issue of Ladies Home Journal shows how materials such as fur were used to lend clothes a glamorous touch. The restrictions on men’s clothes such as men’s trousers openings at maximum circumference of 19 inches and pleats and cuffs were not allowed , trousers were made of of lesser quality wool fabric combined with synthetics and they were available in only three colors, black, brown or navy. Double breasted coats styles were banned and maximum collar widths were specified. Limits were also set on how many buttons or pockets could be placed on certain garments. For ladies with disappearance of stockings, bobby socks became popular alternative, hats were made from other materials such as straws, zippers in both men and ladies and men wear were prohibited to preserve metal. The styles available during the war became simple and austere, gone were the ruffles and frills of the previous decade and civilian clothing often mirrored the military uniform style. Designers encouraged styles that did not require girdles. Women nipped in waists were led out; lending dresses a matronly rather shapeless character. The popularity of pants among women spread well even after the end of the world war2. Other designers of the time contributed to the war by creating uniforms as well. The women uniforms developed brought dignity to the women who wore them, while civilian’s clothes worn were as beautiful as they were practical. While maintaining beauty was important in the media, designs took practical needs of ladies and infused them with beauty, the A-line dress used by the government mandates in the US and Britain proved to be the most beautiful line. The era was represented by the fashion of the time with limitations imposed on fashion that made marks on future design works and fashion science as we have to know it today. Innovations, inventions and modifications that were developed during this period, designers made the most glamorous decade through fashion, despite the fact that fashion underwent a thorough forced change in the 1940’s. The war made designers to come together for a common good. The impact on fashion of the war was immense and it is still felt up to date. Works Cited Olds, Lauren(2001) “ World war II and fashion: The birth of new look,” Constructing the past. Vol 2: Iss. I, article6. Rhodes, Lauren. "Fashion Through Time." : WW2. Fashionthroughtime1, 6 Jan. 2013. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. Rich, Mark. "The Forties in America Wartime Rationing." Salem Press. Salempress.com, Sept. 2010. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. Mason, Megham. “the impact of world war II on women fashion in the United States and Britain” (2011),UNLV Theses/dissertation/ Professional Papers/ Capstones. Paper 1390. "The Second World War Impact on Fashion." Fashion Law Wiki /. N.p., n.d. Web. 28 Nov. 2013. Read More