Bespoke Tailoring and 3D Body Scanning - Literature review Example

?Bespoke Tailoring, Anthropometrics and 3D Body Scanning Bespoke Tailoring, Anthropometrics and 3D Body Scanning Effective and complete 3D body scanning systems for the human body digitalisation was initiated more than fifteen years ago. The major application of this 3D technology was first applied in the textile field that was highly related to the military industry (International Conference on Systems, Computing Sciences and Software Engineering, Sobh, and Elleithy, 2006; p. 153). The body scanning has become a successful tool in military especially in facilitating the manufacturing of the military uniforms. It is often used for selection since it provides proper sizes of the uniforms for the entire staff (Aldrich, 2001; p. 34). The success of the 3D scanning technology in the military industry made its application to be adopted and developed in other fields. Numerous research works were since exploited to expand the application of 3D body scanning technology in numerous commercial fields (Aldrich, 2012; p. 144). These projects led to the installation and start up projects to be initiated in different parts of the world with full body scanning systems being installed and located in places including shopping malls, detectable scanning centres, and boutiques. Notably, everything is virtually available for the exploitation of all the required hardware and solutions for full body scanning systems including the automatic and reliable software for extraction of the body measurements, high end and low end virtual try on systems, and web and e-kiosk solution for garments presentation (Gaso?s and Thoben, 2003; p. 34). Therefore, from these projects and applications, it is clear that 3D body scanning systems are effective in the tailoring industry. Despite the immense achievements that have been attained in the application of the 3D body technology, the systems have not achieved complete solutions for full commercial exploitations and applications. Nonetheless, the current reduction due to overwhelming competition, the digitization of human body has more interesting for the apparel and fashion industry (FAN, YU, and HUNTER, 2004; p. 252). The application of the 3D in the garment industry requires understanding of different concepts and aspects of computer technology. The system independent measurement software is fundamental in implementing the body measurements from the 3D body scans. It should be noted that the 3D scans are often recorded by different pieces of hardware and this often provide the link between the E-Tailoring MTM and scanner hardware process chain. However, the system independent measurement software has some vital requirements including the MTM chain for the smooth implementation of the 3D body scans (Price, 1975). These requirements often depend on the different manufacturer’s scanning system and the automatic extraction of all the required measurements. Nonetheless, these measurements are usually taken according to the standardized measurement rules as well as the configurability to the customers’ needs (Saffer, 2008). Automatic Body Measurement Approaches Methods for acquiring automatic measurement data from the 3D scans of human beings are often distinguishable by the amount of knowledge concerning the structure of the human body that are contained in the respective algorithms (Preedy, 2012). However, three categories of approaches are applied in the 3D measurements that are predetermined by these scenarios. The implementation of the measurement algorithm is done directly on specific measurement that is; there is no set of general independent measurement algorithms (Pheasant, 1990; p. 378). The implementation also follows no hierarchical approach of measuring other than the fundamental approach. Therefore, the algorithms are often strongly dependent on the input (that may include attached landmarks, posture of objects, and scan properties). The scan properties of the algorithms include resolution, closeness, and structure among other properties (Preedy, 2012). It should be noted that these features are defined and determined differently depending on the scanner manufacturers. The Feature Based Measurement The feature based measurement methods often follow a two-step approach. The initial step in this method or approach predefines set features including body landmarks such as the top of the head, the acromia, the wrist bone location, all of which are detected on the scan (Preedy, 2012). The second step includes measuring using a set of parameterized measurement tools such the vital “tape measures” that includes parameterized, circumferences or length, displacement, and by the angle. These measurements are often done to pre-detect scan features that are defined with implicitly or implicitly. These terms define measurement rules (Mckelvey, 2006); the rules sometimes lead to new features or additional measures that are usually within the measurement hierarchy. Measurement is an important step since it helps in detecting main features or structural knowledge of the human body thereby helping in analysing them using protocol properties within certain body regions (Muzj, 1970; p. 135). It is worth noting the measurement rules are usually defined or pegged on extracted body features. For example, chest girth can be defined as the body surface circumference based on the horizontal intersection plane through the nipples. Man Model Based Measurement The man model based measurement methods are usually pegged on a fully articulated, man model that is considered functional as an interpretation of the scan data. Computer-aided Design (CAD) man model are normally constructed on the skeleton or the internal kinematic structure with an outer surface that represent the skin (Liechty, Pottberg, and Rasband 1992). The man model is often used to explicitly reference structures with anatomic and anthropometrical knowledge of the human being’s body. The use of explicitly reference structures is vital in interpreting body scan and measurement extracted. The internal body structure, dimensions, “skin”, and posture of the man model is structured as that the model’s outer surface matches the scan. This is done with a high degree of precision as possible (Jefferys, 2011). The obtained measurements are then extracted by the intrinsic measurement retrieval methods that are applicable to the man model. In other words, the man model can provide its measurements directly and this may be because of adaptation process that may in term lead to the reproduction of a scanned measurement of the body. The main advantage of the CAD is that its software record lines in form of vectors that are based on mathematical equations (Hopkins, 2011; p. 39). The coded lines can be moved, twisted, and stretched thereby allowing navigation towards designing a garment. Moreover, the CAD is a perfect avenue for switching between 2D to 3D views and changing the scale of images as well as manipulation of the different shape of images. Notably, the 3D body scanners have several databases. The Body Database This database has two 3D mannequins for each sex or gender and it is often referred to generic models. This database contains certain statistical information usually obtained from the models but through 3D shape capture technology (Great Britain, 1948). The information extracted from the body database is significant for such information is necessary to derive new body geometries that are extracted from the measurement inputs. This information is often obtained from the client’s side and it contains body or garment sizing details. Garment Database Numerous 3D garment models have been created from categorizing and generic models. This database was initiated to enable the user to choose from different and varied garment catalogue pages (Gaso?s and Thoben, 2003). The online shops provide different and great numbers of garments; therefore, it is often easier to update this database thereby keeping it coherent with the clothes shown on the website application as well as on the cloths available for sale. Thus, the garment database must be on the server side. Once a user is selected, the identified or chosen 3D garment is downloaded to the client (Fasciato, 2003; p. 71). The garments are then saved into virtual reality modelling language (VRML), a language that is mostly used in presenting the 3D on the website. The Motion Database This involves that animation database that contains samples of body motion data. This database is often selected the same way as the garment database where the selected motion can be downloaded on request. The motion data are often obtained through the prerecording of the real movement of a person using an optical motion capture system. The Scene Database This database is often used to support graphical elements that usually form the background scene. The information on this database is contained in the VRML files (Coates, Brooker, and Stone, 2008). The Client The web clients are designed to perform program executions mainly after the executable has been downloaded to the client as an ActiveX control. Usually, two main modules that are used on the clients’ side exist and they include the body or garment-sizing module whose functionalities are to relay the 3D mannequin when the client input body size (Cresswell, 2004). This module also helps in resizing the selected garments accordingly. Additionally, there is the static shape module that completes the 3D mannequin shapes and the garment. The real time garment simulation provides for the animation of the dressed mannequin. This last approach drastically reduces the amount of the transferred data from the server to the client. E-tailor programs are global approaches that have global terms of tackling the fundamental problems related to the customized garments that are mainly found on the virtual retailing. The 3D body scanning is an innovative approach with many aspects that must be considered especially during its project development. Notably, a realistic 3D virtual often links to the CAD data thereby facilitating electronic tailoring. Moreover, virtual prototyping of the scanned bodies helps in the classification and analysis of different body shapes thereby helping in initiating intelligent garment patterns, shapes, and sizes. Therefore, the CAD and 3D software are vital for all garment or clothing industries as well as fashion retail industries. References ALDRICH, W. (2001). Pattern cutting for women's tailored jackets: classic and contemporary. Malden, MA, Blackwell Science. ALDRICH, W. (2012). Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear. Chichester, John Wiley & Sons. http://public.eblib.com/EBLPublic/PublicView.do?ptiID=952412. ANDERSON, R. (2010). Bespoke: Savile Row ripped and smoothed. London, Pocket. CAI, Y. (2008). Digital human modeling trends in human algorithms. Berlin [etc.], SpringerLink [host]. COATES, M., BROOKER, G., & STONE, S. (2008). The visual dictionary of interior architecture & design. 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