Catwalk Versus Visual Fashion Shows - Dissertation Example

? Catwalk Versus Visual Fashion Shows: Investigating Young Designers Preferences TABLE OF CONTENT Content Page No Introduction 5 Content 5 Aims 5 Objectives 5 Methodology 6 Findings 6 Content / Background 6 Visual Fashion Show: Definition and Current Trends 6 Virtual Fashion Shows 7 History of Runway and Its Characteristic Features: Some Memorable Fashion Shows 8 Examples of Recent Memorable Fashion Shows 9 Fashion Promotion in UK and Korea 9 Methodology 10 Findings 13 Discussion 15 Conclusion 18 References 20 Appendix 23 SYNOPSIS This dissertation attempts to find out the actual preferences of the young designers of modern times, in other words, what the young fashion designers actually prefer more - the live catwalk fashion shows or the newer concept, visual fashion shows. Visual fashion shows could be categorized into two broad types - videos of live shows and the one with virtual avatars. It has been attempted to find out what influences the young designers’ preference most. The research is done by considering choices of young fashion designers from UK and Korea. In the introductory portion, the content, aims and objectives of this study and limitations faced while conducting the research work are clearly stated. Literature review comes next where all aspects related to visual fashion shows are dealt in details including current trends, influencing factors, recent shows, etc. Next is methodology, where the procedure, which was followed while doing this research work, is outlined. Research approaches, philosophies, data collection process, sampling etc, with every details are depicted in this section. Several people were interviewed. Continue with ‘findings’, summarizes the answers given by the respondents. Carry on with ‘discussion’, the answers of the respondents were interpreted, analyzed and compared. The views that came up through their answers were related with trends, practices and concepts referred to in ‘findings’. In the final section, a brief conclusion is provided to the whole study from point of view of the researcher. Along with a justification is also provided for young designer’s preference for visual fashion shows over live catwalk shows. Introduction Visual fashion shows are gradually taking over live fashion shows in recent times. Unlike the traditional fashion shows where the model catwalks down the ramp, visual fashion shows present digitalized images of the same but, projected on a screen. Thus, on one hand the people fail to perceive the liveliness, but on the other hand designers could easily showcase their creations. For this reason, one could find an increasing popularity of visual fashion shows among designers, especially among the young the young fashion designers. Content In the present times, the fashion world is experiencing a new type of fashion show- the visual fashion show, which involves digitalized images of models decked up in fashion items. Contrary to conventional catwalk shows, visual fashion shows saves time, energy, organization, and are flexible in nature. At the same time, the visual fashion shows are also cost effective and interactive. This is the reason why many young designers in present are choosing visual fashion shows over the traditional ones (Menkes, 2010). Aims This study aims at finding out whether the young fashion designers from UK and Korea prefer live catwalks on ramps or visual fashion shows. Objectives 1. To find out the choice and preferences of young designers from UK and Korea. 2. To explore what factors have affected their choice. 3. To examine relevance and effectiveness of visual fashion shows in contemporary fashion industry. 4. To analyze success of visual fashion shows in terms of marketing, promotion and popularity. Methodology For this paper, both primary and secondary sources will be used data collected by interviewing some people as well as those collected from books, journals, and reviews and articles from fashion magazines will be interpreted and analyzed. Findings It was found out that the new concept of visual fashion show is widely accepted all over the world in present times. Though live catwalk shows are still preferred by a large group of fashion- conscious people, visual fashion shows are gaining more popularity among the youth, both among the designers as well as the clients. Also visual fashion shows have highly influenced buying patterns in recent times. Limitations Some limitations have been faced while conducting this research work. Disadvantage of primary sources accounts to the fact that often information collected lacked validity, authenticity and accuracy. Often relevant data was unavailable as far as secondary sources are concerned. Some time constraints were also there while interviewing the respondents. Content / Background Visual Fashion Show: Definition and Current Trends In present times, the concept of visual fashion show has crept in. Such fashion shows are created with help of special types of computer - applications to produce a stimulated environment where a virtual word is presented. This virtual world is almost a replica of real world and like real world provides ample scope for interaction. Visual fashion shows showcase fashion accessories and apparels by using visual avatars, whose appearance not only produce stimulating effect on audiences, but also reflect their virtual personalities in a way that is both entertaining and informative (Gareth Pugh - S/S 2011 Film). Thus, the visual fashion shows does not merely display creations of designers, but produce entertainment and recreation too. In modern times CLO Show Player and CLO 3D are the technologies behind creation of such spectacular visual fashion shows (Singh, 2012). Virtual Fashion Shows Emefa Kuadey, a designer from Ghana launched her debut collection by means of virtual fashion show “Lost in the Wilderness” in 2012 under her designer brand label Israella |KOBLA|. Though the virtual fashion show, she wanted to inspire her clients to explore their passions and adventitious nature (Lost in the Wilderness 2013). Some other visual fashion shows are PRADA fashion film for the S/S 2012 Women’s Campaign by Steven Meisel and KENZO Resort 2013 “Electric Jungle” film directed by Mat Maitland. Prabal Gurung for IBC, held a visual fashion to showcase his talents at New York (Wilson, 2012). The show was launched at a site protected by password and the audiences were informed about the starting time of the show along with the password. Apart from catwalks of models, the video also contained an appearance of the designer himself stating his source of inspiration and special features of his collection. Nicola Formichetti, better known as stylist of Lady Gaga opted for visual fashion for his pop-up store. The 3d video created to display his collected aimed at defining fashion to its infinity, at the same time providing a spatial and architectural touch to the whole video by collaborating with producer of CPP games. Brands such as ModaOperandi also chose virtual shows as a means to promote their fashion items (Fashion Diary: Designers look to the virtual world, 2011). Some of the other young London based UK designers who have made it big in fashion industry are- “Pringle of Scotland, Burberry Prorsum, and Matthew Williamson”. 37 shows got streamed live when their event was digitalized. Also series of fashion films were produced. Burberry was the first one to hold live streaming at Piccadilly Circus (Arthur, 2011). History of Runway and Its Characteristic Features: Some Memorable Fashion Shows The concept of hosting fashion shows on a runway first originated in France during 19th century. Couture salons were the venues where these fashion shows were hosted. Fashion shows of those times bore very little resemblance with today’s shows and were held only to display certain types of fashion only. However one common feature shared by fashion trends of those times is that, even then, women models acquired central role in displaying fashion - generally referred to as ‘fashion parades’. The women were made to walk on straight, long and narrow passages. Unlike modern fashion shows, only a limited group of people had access to view runway modeling. Till the latter half of 1940, photography was altogether banned from such ‘fashion parades’. Fashion runways were introduced to America around the first half of twentieth century and was highly popularized and recognized during 1970’s (Thomas, n.d). Characteristics The chief function of a fashion runway is to display fashion, whether be it the virtual or real one. The key features of garments or accessories are highlighted. Professional models, decked in various dress-items such as coats, suits, gowns, undergarments, swim- wears, and other dress- forms, as well as hats, jewelries, shoes, etc, walk through the narrow runways (Prada – S/S 2013 Collection in Milan, n.d). In fashion shows, different patterns of runways are made across the length of the room or venue, for instance spiral pattern, square patter, general crisscross, etc. Men and women, alike, display creations of designers to generate public interest. Photography is an integral part of runway, and models walking down the ramp are constantly photographed. Background theme, music and stage lighting are also inseparable parts of fashion runways in showcasing latest trends and fashion (Vogt, 2007, pp. 191- 192). Examples of Recent Memorable Fashion Shows One of the most memorable fashion weeks was Seoul Fashion Week, which showcased collection for 2013 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Among other Korean designers, young Korean designer Kim Kyoung Min made a special mark with his ‘SNNEZER PARADE’, which was primarily based on the concept of freedom, as it was perceived by the youth during 1950- 1970s. The show was an attempt to blend vintage style of clothing with Levi’s collection. The show was very much appreciated as the underlying message of hope and freedom was clearly brought out (LEVIS meets young designer Kim Kyung min at Seoul Fashion Week 2013, n.d). Video of Gareth Pugh’s A/W 2011-2012 catwalk show was organized on February 2013. The British designer harped on supernaturalism and opted for dark shades and ghost-like appearances for his models. The garments’ key feature was strength and otherworldliness (Kilcooley- O’ Halloran 2013). Some other memorable fashion shows are the World Fashion Week Paris 2013 (End Poverty 2015 Millennium Development Goals 2013), and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin on January 2013 (Mercedes-Benz: Focus on Fashion, n.d.), etc. Fashion Promotion in UK and Korea The modern Korean fashion industry has made increasing use of e-commerce to strategically increase their sales conversion. It is ensured that the websites, which are promoting or displaying creations of any particular designer or brand, contains every detail related to its products. Also provisions are made so that clients could get online suggestions about better purchase from existing buyer base. Besides reviews and ratings, cross- selling, discounts and up- selling are the few practices that are used for fashion promotion in Korea (Kmc, n.d). On the other hand, fashion in UK is promoted in clusters. That is, regional and local economies are first pinpointed and then promotions are made. Initiatives undertaken by government of UK as well as several cross-sector organizations have resulted in launching of Estethicia, John Lewis, etc, which are basically sustainability movements. The government had set up ECGD to support the fragile nature of British fashion industry. Moreover, design-led organizations of UK are taking creations of young designers into foreign markets. Credit card guarantee schemes, is no doubt an advantage for fashion promotion. Fashion stakeholders, too, are important aspects of fashion promotion in UK (The Value of the UK Fashion Industry 2009). METHODOLOGY For completing this research work, a definite method is adopted. Research philosophies Determinism: This research philosophy uses ‘cause and effect’ aspects of a research. Interpretivism: By this philosophy, one could deal in with in-depth study of features or aspects related. Positivism: While adoption of this research philosophy, observational and interpretation skills are required and this is more of a mathematical approach (Schmidt, n.d). For this research work, intepretivism approach is used. Research design: Explanatory research design requires probing deep into facts and figures. Thus, this research design involves use collection of facts, which would provide in-depth knowledge. Exploratory research design is the one in which the facts and information are provided with detailed description. Thus, this research design requires use of ample amount of data. In descriptive research design, events and incidents are taken into account for analysis and interpretation. This research work involves use of both descriptive as well as explanatory research design. A blend of both had helped the research work to arrive at desired conclusion. Research approaches Quantitative Research Approach: Quantitative research method involves use of numerical data to arrive to conclusion. Thus, this research approach includes use of numerical data in the form of graphs, charts, statistics, and mathematical models. As data collected by this method is basically empirical in nature, therefore, it becomes easy to arrange them chronologically. Comparison, interpretation and analyzing are also easier for numerical data. By adopting this method, huge amount of data could be collected, synchronized and maintained (Introduction to Quantitative Research Methods: An Investigative Approach, 2001 p 48). Qualitative Research Approach: This research approach deals with data that is chiefly informative or descriptive in nature. Qualitative approach involves use of data derived from external sources and also individual’s perception and experiences. This approach also allows use of facts and data that is established in some past research work (Silverman, 2012 p 3- 12). For this research work, qualitative approach is adopted since this research approach supports collection of a wide variety of information related to visual fashion shows, currents trends in global fashion industry, promotion procedures adopted by young fashion designers and preferences of young designers from UK and Korea. Data Collection Method: Primary sources: Primary sources refer to information collected by inter- personal interactions with people. For obtaining desired outcome, several persons were interviewed within a limited timeframe. Information collected by primary sources is based on first-hand experiences of the researcher. Tools for collection of information are personal interviews, telephones, emails and social networking sites such as Facebook, Twitter, ebuddy, etc. These are beneficial for interacting with professionals who have flexible working shifts (Gravetter and Forzano, 2009 p 46). Secondary sources: Books, journals, fashion reports, news articles, reviews, magazines, etc are referred to as secondary sources. By using secondary sources one could indirectly access to ample amount of data and information. Contemporary facts and events, as well as past incidents, observations and historical events could be referred to. By adopting secondary sources one could collect a wide variety of information. Both primary and secondary sources were used to collect required and relevant data for this research work. Collection of secondary sources helped the researcher to gain in-depth knowledge about trends and practices of fashion industry, preferences of designers, and perceptions of common people about visual fashion shows. Sampling method Random sampling: In this type of sampling method, the participants are chosen on a random basis without any preference or biasness on part of the researcher. No sampling technique is applied either. Systematic Sampling: Under this sampling method, intervals or a definite pattern is used while sample group is selected. Stratified Sampling: Stratified sampling supports division of groups into a regular pattern followed by systematic sampling of each group (Sampling Techniques, n.d.). Sample size: A sample size was chosen which included six people. These people belonged to age group of- 20 to 35 years. Four of them were students of fashion institutes. Among others one was lawyer by profession, and the other one was a fashion designer. Questionnaires: This is a set of 19 questions prepared beforehand and presented to the respondents at the time of interview. In case of video-conferences, the questions were read out. Semi- structured type of interview: In this kind of formal interview, both close and open ended question are made. This kind of interview is very effective when qualitative approach is made, as it helps in bringing out personal views of the respondents. Data collected are also reliable, authentic and valid. Moreover the informal, non- verbal gestures could be later observed and interpreted later (Semi-structured Interviews, n.d.). For conducting this research work, 6 people were interviewed. One of them was interviewed in person. Others were interviewed by video- conferencing through Skype. Respondents were chosen by basing upon random sampling method and a set of 19 questions were presented. Random sampling is useful for this study as it helped in representing all sections of fashion- conscious people. Questions were framed about personal preferences about fashion shows, buying pattern, designer preferences, fashion promotions etc. All the conversations were recorded digitally for future use. FINDINGS The direct responses from the interviewees are categorized under primary findings. Video of Gareth Pugh’s Autumn Winter 2011-2012 catwalk show and Gareth Pugh’s Spring Summer 2011 visual fashion show was shown before interviews. It has been found from the literature survey or secondary sources that visual fashion shows are constantly on a rise among fashion designers, though it has not fully succeeded in replacing live catwalk shows. Still, in many cases, live shows are preferred over visual fashion shows. Presently visual fashion shows are promoted all around the world and efforts are been made to make it more acceptable and popular among fashion- conscious clients. Every respondent had heard about visual fashion shows before watching Gareth Pugh’s live and visual fashion show. Haft of the respondents had watched visual fashion shows of other designers like, the one from PRADA fashion film for the S/S 2012 Women’s Campaign. Others had mostly watched live catwalk shows. When it comes to watching other type of fashion show, only one of the respondents had seen it, a laser fashion show. Other five respondents did not have the opportunity to see any other type of fashion show. Two of the respondents considered classic catwalk shows as comparatively glamorous and livelier, with one of them regarding it as irreplaceable. Only one person stated it as useless and unnecessary. Two respondents were comfortable if it is replaced with visual fashion shows. This implies that visual fashion shows are becoming more acceptable among the fashion conscious masses. Most of the respondents were impressed by the new concept of visual fashion show. Only two people said that it failed to showcase actual creativity of the designers. To one, the idea was brilliant. One among them was neutral. The visual fashion show attracted three respondents. Two respondents preferred traditional fashion shows that thus, were attracted more by live catwalk fashion shows. One was unable to decide. However, the concept or the central theme of the concerned videos was understood only by four respondents. Other two respondents were unable to get the chief concept. Out of six, only four respondents were able to notice the key features of fashion garments displayed in video. Rest failed to understand which features were highlighted in the garments displayed. On a whole, the respondents were divided in their opinions, with three voting for live catwalk- fashion shows and the other three supporting visual fashion shows. The respondents suggested numerous aspects to improve visual fashion shows. These were technological aspects, promotions, detailing, video quality, type of audience, and creativity. As fashion designers, the half respondents would prefer to promote their works through ramp-shows and catwalks for the audience could see and understand by themselves and the other half through visual fashion shows since it is cost- effective, easy and have unlimited number of audience. When questioned about whether or they think that anything is missing from catwalk runway shows, two respondents were unable to spot any difference. Three answered negatively and only one respondent answered positively. Four out of six respondents held that more shows must be organized to promote designer garments insisting that it would help in promotion of fashion items on a general basis. This view was supported by three respondents. One of them stated that no further actions or initiatives are required. One respondent was unable to suggest anything. It was also suggested that the aspects related with fashion shows must be revised and updated regularly so as to keep to the perceptions of modern audiences. Every respondent expressed their individual point of view, stating different causes for growing popularity of visual fashion shows. The principal reasons were technological superiority, trade promotions, detailing provided in videos about fashion items, high- quality videos, ability to reach to a greater mass of people, and overall creativity and attractiveness of videos. One of them was unable to identify the reason behind widespread acceptance of visual fashion shows. Technological support and keeping to the latest trends were the chief reasons behind growing popularity; each cause was pointed out by two respondents. Other reasons were lesser cost and aims to reach to more and more audience. Almost all of the respondents, except one unanimously agreed that fashion has changed significantly over past few years, and with it the concept of fashion shows has also changed. To them, fashion shows are dynamic in nature and will always continue to change or evolve. Four out of six respondents replied negatively to the question that visual fashion shows might take over the traditional form in near future, stressing that live catwalk shows has always been more alluring and convincing than the visual fashion shows. The other two were hopeful about future prospects of visual fashion shows. Out of six respondents, most were unable to comment about future discourse of live catwalk shows and whether they would be digitalized altogether or not, while two of them replied positively and one negatively. DISCUSSION It has been found that visual fashion shows have found bits own place in fashion world. From the responses of the interviewees it is clear that visual fashion shows is no more an alien concept when it comes to showcasing fashion garments and accessories. In present times, visual fashion shows have become an important medium of showcasing almost every other fashion item staring from shoes, belts, jewelries, and a wide variety of dress items. Apart from visual fashion shows, other types of shows, which exist, are road shows, stage shows and fashion shows by means of laser, projected on a screen. The fact that presently almost every fashion show is recorded digitally, has contributed to popularity of visual fashion shows. Thus, the researcher is certain that not only the respondents alone, but a majority of people, even those who are not much concerned about fashion, are familiar with this concept. In fact, presentation of visual fashion shows is looked upon as a form of art by young designers (Ulrich, n.d). Visual fashion shows are basically of two types - the one that facilitates dressing online and the other, which are video recordings of fashion shows that took place at some particular venue. While the former is slowing gaining popularity among young fashion designers the latter has already become a commonplace thing. This is due to some basic advantages offered by this concept. Firstly, visual fashion shows are very convincing when it comes to satisfaction or contentment of probable customers (Otieno, Harrow and Lea-Greenwood, 2005 pp 298-309). Moreover, they could be displayed with ease and requires less time. Thus the designers can present them at convenient hours. Numerous fashion brands are adopting visual fashion shows for promoting their fashion items. Prada, Lady Dior, Reebok, etc., are some of them. These organizations have put visual fashion shows on monitors in their retail stores. This has helped in creating positive influences among the customers who enter the premises. A lot of designer stores, both retail and wholesale ones are getting hooked to this technology as a measure to lessen efforts, time and cost for advertisement and transportation. Thus, it is used more by young designers of present times. Moreover, for young designers visual fashion shows are a better option since they can appeal more to today’s tech- savvy generation for they are more habituated to the concept of cyberspace (Quinn, 2002). A section of people still believe in the tradition of fashion show with a thematic setting and glamorous models whom catwalk down the ramp. It is believed that the traditional live shows create more audio - visual effect on the audience, and possesses an aura or essence of its own. This view was echoed in opinions of the respondents also, for most of them were doubtful about live fashion shows being completely overtaken by digitalization and visual shows. At the same time, they were also aware about changing trends of fashion world. Most people, whether fashion - conscious or not, agree to the fact that fashion is never static in nature and that it always keeps on changing or evolving (Black, 2010). This is the reason why the respondents found that visual fashion shows might take the lead in near future and that all shows will be digitalized and that most exclusive shows will be easily accessed. Presently, these features are highlighted by designers and fashion brands for promotion. Added to these, scope of interaction, supported by visual fashion shows has contributed in acquiring a wider customer base. That is, the customers could interact with the particular fashion house or designer by means of sophisticated video conferencing, audio connections, emails and messaging (Kawamura, 2004). For active promotion methods, majority of respondents has felt that the concept of visual fashion show is an excellent concept. However, it has been noticed that most people does not prefer use of too much special effects. The CLO Show Player, no doubt showcases the expertise of technicians, but, according to many, hampers original creativity of the designer. The special effects, light exposures, editing and music overshadow authenticity, or more precisely naturalness of designs that are created. Often it is also considered that, a section of designers opt for visual shows as an attempt to hide their drawbacks or shortcomings. For this reason, most of the respondents remarked highly about classical live catwalk shows. Irrespective of form, it is an obligation for every successful fashion show to convey the message or thought of the designer. Though a section of people are unable to understand the implicit theme, but most find such videos interesting and easy to understand. This implies that designers have to work more on this mode of fashion show and upgrade further. This will not only contribute to future development of this type of shows but will also contribute to its promotion and popularity. This is necessary as most of the respondents found visual fashion shows to be more effective in influencing customers’ buying decisions. The respondents also found visual shows to be more dramatic, striking and eye- catching than the live catwalk fashion shows. One of the limitations of visual fashion show is that, often virtual visitors are fooled by designers who create fashions ‘from pixels, not fabric’. This also happens the other way round, often virtual visitors also take undue advantage of designers (Calderin, 2009 pp 247). This has been the reason why many customers still prefer live shows. Moreover, visual fashion show is limited to only a specific group of audience. That is to say, the appeal of the designer often fails to reach to those people who are not that much used to Internet or lack the expertise of surfing fashion websites. Thus, marketing, promotion and transactions are mostly done for youth, since they are more accustomed to Internet and browsing. At the same time, this preference is also the reason behind the young designers adopting the path of digitalization. When asked to consider from designer’s point of view, one half of respondents chose high- end technology. The other half, however, chose to stick to conventional type of fashion show. While the contributions made by governments of many nations in promotion and expansion of fashion industry cannot be denied, but it can well be said that the concept of visual fashion show still has a long way to go. CONCLUSION The days when ‘fashion show’ meant a ramp full of tall, glamorous models showcasing creations designers with eye- catching costumes and dramatic make- ups are gone. One of the reasons behind growing popularity of visual fashion shows among upcoming young fashion designers is the fact that the new space of visual world is very flexible in nature and could be assessed with ease. As generation-y is more comfortable with use of Internet, especially with fashion sites, visual fashion shows are an excellent medium to reach more people within lesser time. Visual fashions are easily accessible, that is, the shows could be put up even on company websites. This is particularly helpful as the designers could easily showcase their latest creations during meeting with individual buyers or retailers. Moreover, by showcasing their creations though visual fashion shows, the designers could save the cost and hassles of organizing a ramp show. This has made the concept of visual show more popular among the young fashion designers, especially the struggling ones. Customization of visual avatars, clothes, and accessories has made the videos even more attractive. Also, as virtual fashion shows could be put up easily within short period of time without heavy expenses, has made the concept more popular among young designers. For this research work a definite method had been adopted. The result that was derived was in favor of visual fashion shows. Though lesser number of designers has adopted the medium till date, but the concept is highly popular among young designers, especially among designers from UK and Korea. References 1. Arthur, R 2011, ‘London Fashion Week: Young designers must embrace technology or risk shutting the door’, UK Telegraph, 21 February, Viewed 19 May, 2013, Read More